10.25 Screen Rebooting during ride; the Screen data is not updating; and Statistics data us incorrect - any Suggestions?

[herring]

While on a ride today, the screen started to repeatedly reboot. The information on the screen was frozen with none of the data updating (Time, gearing, speed, mileage, etc.). The bike ran normally with no other issues. Once I reached my destination, I restarted the RT and the display updated showing the correct data.

The statistic screen displayed the following (After restarting):

Duration 7.5 hours (Actual ride time was 1.5)​

Distance 288 miles (Should be close to 85)​

AVG Fuel Consumption 48 mpg (I wish!)​

The statistics were reset at the start of the ride.

Frequently, I have a Bluetooth fault when starting. Normally this can be fixed after restarting the RT.

I called my dealer and scheduled an appointment. The "over the phone" diagnosis is the battery or wiring (They will know more after looking at the vehicle).

Thoughts?

If this has been answered in another post, I apologize in advance. I did search but did not find any posts on the same situation.

2025 RT LTD
8400 miles
original battery

Thank you in advance.

 

[mecsw500]

First I'd make sure your battery terminals are good and tight and where the -ve battery cable attaches to the frame/engine also.

Do you keep your battery on a maintainer? A single really cold garage over a winter can kill a battery.

It points to a battery as my first thought. Batteries are seemingly far more problematic than the charging system or even the electrics as a whole.

A new Yuasa USA battery, charged fully and then fitted is going to be about the same price as the first hour of investigation at dealer hourly rates, so I'd gamble with a new battery. They'll probably fit one anyway. If you don't have a battery maintainer, get one and attach the harness tails to the battery when you install the new one.

 

[herring]

First I'd make sure your battery terminals are good and tight and where the -ve battery cable attaches to the frame/engine also.

Do you keep your battery on a maintainer? A single really cold garage over a winter can kill a battery.

It points to a battery as my first thought. Batteries are seemingly far more problematic than the charging system or even the electrics as a whole.

A new Yuasa USA battery, charged fully and then fitted is going to be about the same price as the first hour of investigation at dealer hourly rates, so I'd gamble with a new battery. They'll probably fit one anyway. If you don't have a battery maintainer, get one and attach the harness tails to the battery when you install the new one.

Thank you. Based on what I have read, the stock battery should be replaced. You recommend Yuasa as a replacement?

One source stated the following (This also suggests a battery as a potential problem area):

1. Instrument cluster/TFT display fault (hardware or firmware) - Most likely
   • Complete freeze of speed, RPM, gear, clock, and trip data.
   • Repeated rebooting while riding.
   • Corrupted ride statistics after recovery.
   • History of intermittent Bluetooth issues.
2. Intermittent power or ground issue - Still very possible.
   • A brief loss of power to the display could cause exactly this behavior while the engine continues to run because the engine control module has its own power management.
3. Battery/charging issue - Possible, but slightly less likely now.
   • A weak battery typically causes problems during starting. Since the issue occurred while you were already riding, I'd want the dealer to pay close attention to charging voltage and wiring, not just the battery itself.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thank you. Based on what I have read, the stock battery should be replaced. You recommend Yuasa as a replacement?

...

I'll second that Yuasa recommendation, just so long as it's made in the USA; that it has at least 350 CCA & 21 A/hr capacity; and it been properly initialised (if it's a 'bottle filled' AGM battery, there's a specific process which is usually specified on the packaging and that I believe takes about an hour to do properly) and then charged with a proper 2 amp charger (not just on a battery tender) for AT LEAST 8 hours to ensure it's fully set up, charged, and ready to provide suitable power for many years to come!

Any lower capacity &/or lesser initialisation & charging time is likely to mean you'll probably be replacing that new battery too, much sooner than you really should need to!

Good Luck!

 

[mecsw500]

The Spyder, especially the later models, have lots of CanBus modules. These have a high current consumption.

If the battery voltage drops, actually not by a lot, various random bus modules appear to drop out.

If you replace the battery with a Yuasa USA battery, then charge it on the bench until fully charged, then put it on the bike, tighten the battery terminals good and proper with just the battery maintainer tail in place. These bikes like battery maintainers, not trickle chargers, to maintain a suitable charge level when not being driven. The parasitic draw on the battery is not insignificant. When you put the +ve then -ve cable on, you'll see a small spark from the parasitic draw.

If you are chasing an electrical fault, then in my experience you make sure the baseline components are operating problem free. You can chase your tail round and round only to find it was something basic all along, at $150 per hour!

The Yuasa battery to get is the Yuasa AGM battery, Yuasa YTX24HL (I'd not mess with the -BS version). Fully charge it before installing. As what Peter said.

 

[herring]

I just wanted to post a follow up after visiting my dealer. The battery is not the issue. The Spyder BUDS recorded the event showing that all communication from the display to the control modules had dropped. A case was opened with BRP. There was one other case showing the same issue. So far this has been an isolated incident.

Thanks to all who responded.

 

[Mikey]

It's amazing that yours is one of two!! Don't believe everything you hear!!

 

[P29]

I have the same problem on my RT.
I found out that the disaster almost always starts in the same sequence.
First a BT problem occurs ... connection fail
Then the screen freezes.
After a while, the system restarts by itself.... sometimes!

Unfortunately, I have not yet found an adequate solution.

It can't be the battery, I wrote down the voltage with an oscilloscope
during a ride. There were no detectible bursts of the voltage.

 

[Peter Aawen]

...
It can't be the battery, I wrote down the voltage with an oscilloscope
during a ride. There were no detectible bursts of the voltage.

But does the voltage ever dip much below 12 volts??

As many here have found to their dismay, our Spyders effectively NEED 12 volts or more to keep everything/all the computers & sensors functioning as they should. Even a momentary dip in voltage to say, 11.8 volts, has been known to cause failures &/or error messages, one or more weird codes or events, even trigger Limp Home Mode, or just cause the Spyder to shut down completely!!

I also know of at least a few instances where failing batteries have triggered a loss of communication between the dash/display and 1 or more of the Control modules, but there have also been a few cases (reported here) where soldered connections on the back of the dash circuit board have caused similar failures; where plugs on the back of dashes have somehow come loose (often claimed to be an inexplicable instance, but these are usually only discovered AFTER a dealer tech has been searching for an issue for a while, and has supposedly ruled something like this out earlier?! Not that I'm saying that may just be a handy excuse for some 'less than competent' techs; but then again, sometimes ya just gotta wonder!?! )

Still, if you haven't already done a battery load test @P29, then even tho it may not be the prime suspect or even the ultimate cause of your issues, it very well COULD be, so I'd still strongly suggest that you do a load test on your battery FIRST, before doing any further troubleshooting and especially before losing any more time &/or money on it, in order make doubly SURE that your Spyder's battery maintains AT LEAST 12 volts at all times, especially while actually cranking to start everything for the first time that day! As a few others have found, you can spend a lot of time &/or money chasing electrical issues like those described, only to discover that the Spyder's battery ISN'T maintaining very nearly 12 volts all the time, and it's the cause of all the issues. And even if it isn't, you won't have lost much time or money doing it, but you juuust might save yourself a whole lot of waste in both!

Just Sayin' - again!

 

[P29]

But does the voltage ever dip much below 12 volts??

As many here have found to their dismay, our Spyders effectively NEED 12 volts or more to keep everything/all the computers & sensors functioning as they should. Even a momentary dip in voltage to say, 11.8 volts, has been known to cause failures &/or error messages, one or more weird codes or events, even trigger Limp Home Mode, or just cause the Spyder to shut down completely!!

I also know of at least a few instances where failing batteries have triggered a loss of communication between the dash/display and 1 or more of the Control modules, but there have also been a few cases (reported here) where soldered connections on the back of the dash circuit board have caused similar failures; where plugs on the back of dashes have somehow come loose (often claimed to be an inexplicable instance, but these are usually only discovered AFTER a dealer tech has been searching for an issue for a while, and has supposedly ruled something like this out earlier?! Not that I'm saying that may just be a handy excuse for some 'less than competent' techs; but then again, sometimes ya just gotta wonder!?! )

Still, if you haven't already done a battery load test @P29, then even tho it may not be the prime suspect or even the ultimate cause of your issues, it very well COULD be, so I'd still strongly suggest that you do a load test on your battery FIRST, before doing any further troubleshooting and especially before losing any more time &/or money on it, in order make doubly SURE that your Spyder's battery maintains AT LEAST 12 volts at all times, especially while actually cranking to start everything for the first time that day! As a few others have found, you can spend a lot of time &/or money chasing electrical issues like those described, only to discover that the Spyder's battery ISN'T maintaining very nearly 12 volts all the time, and it's the cause of all the issues. And even if it isn't, you won't have lost much time or money doing it, but you juuust might save yourself a whole lot of waste in both!

Just Sayin' - again!

Hello ...

The Battery was my first thought. So, I changed it three months ago.
I noticed that when I drive without Apple CarPlay and BT Headset, the display never freezes.

I will continue to pursue the matter.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I just wanted to post a follow up after visiting my dealer. The battery is not the issue. The Spyder BUDS recorded the event showing that all communication from the display to the control modules had dropped. A case was opened with BRP. There was one other case showing the same issue. So far this has been an isolated incident.

Thanks to all who responded.

Hello ...

The Battery was my first thought. So, I changed it three months ago.
I noticed that when I drive without Apple CarPlay and BT Headset, the display never freezes.

I will continue to pursue the matter.

A month or two back, Smoak had a machine in the shop doing the same thing. He actually caught it on video doing it twice during a test ride. He got direction from the mothership relating to the USB cable requirements. Make it as short as possible and ensure it is a high quality data cable such as the ones form Beats, Apple, Belkin, etc. That's pretty standard. But also the direction was to delete the BT pairing between the phone and the bike. Delete the phone in the bike's settings, and delete the pairing on the phone also. I believe it says "forget this device" or something like that. Reboot both, of course. Pair the phone to the headset for audio if you need it, not to the bike.

So, in other words, the configuration they ended up with was the headset paired to the Spyder via BT. The phone connected to the Spyder via the USB. The phone paired to the headset via BT (if necessary for your needs) - not to the Spyder. And everything worked. The display and ACP actually operated faster than before. After a long test ride, the problem never re-occurred and they sent the machine home. Can't vouch for this, I don't have this display or a headset, just thought I'd pass it along. Good Luck.

 

[P29]

A month or two back, Smoak had a machine in the shop doing the same thing. He actually caught it on video doing it twice during a test ride. He got direction from the mothership relating to the USB cable requirements. Make it as short as possible and ensure it is a high quality data cable such as the ones form Beats, Apple, Belkin, etc. That's pretty standard. But also the direction was to delete the BT pairing between the phone and the bike. Delete the phone in the bike's settings, and delete the pairing on the phone also. I believe it says "forget this device" or something like that. Pair the phone to the headset for audio, not to the bike.

So, in other words, the configuration they ended up with was the headset paired to the Spyder via BT. The phone connected to the Spyder via the USB. The phone paired to the headset via BT - not to the Spyder. And everything worked. The display and ACP actually operated faster than before. After a long test ride, the problem never re-occurred and they sent the machine home. Can't vouch for this, I don't have this display or a headset, just thought I'd pass it along. Good Luck.

Thank you for this information.
I will check it immediately and report.

 

[herring]

A month or two back, Smoak had a machine in the shop doing the same thing. He actually caught it on video doing it twice during a test ride. He got direction from the mothership relating to the USB cable requirements. Make it as short as possible and ensure it is a high quality data cable such as the ones form Beats, Apple, Belkin, etc. That's pretty standard. But also the direction was to delete the BT pairing between the phone and the bike. Delete the phone in the bike's settings, and delete the pairing on the phone also. I believe it says "forget this device" or something like that. Reboot both, of course. Pair the phone to the headset for audio if you need it, not to the bike.

So, in other words, the configuration they ended up with was the headset paired to the Spyder via BT. The phone connected to the Spyder via the USB. The phone paired to the headset via BT (if necessary for your needs) - not to the Spyder. And everything worked. The display and ACP actually operated faster than before. After a long test ride, the problem never re-occurred and they sent the machine home. Can't vouch for this, I don't have this display or a headset, just thought I'd pass it along. Good Luck.

I saw the same video and changed out to a shorter USB cable. The results were better, but not great. (I enjoy his videos) The original post for this thread was for the entire display rebooting. The bluetooth fault may be a separate issue. The tech performed an update, and afterwards, ACP seemed to work without any issue. I'll have to take a few more rides to be sure.

Thanks for the information. Much appreciated.

 

[Peder]

I have a 2025 F3-T. It came with a Chinese battery (not the Haijiu). I had the dealer replace it with a Yuasa before I took
delivery. Herring, if your bike has a Chinese battery, I strongly recommend that you replace it with a Yuasa or another
brand that's equally as good.

 

[mecsw500]

You can update some of the firmware yourself.

When at your home couple your bike to your home WiFi, it will need the 2.4GHz connection. Also, put your bike on your battery tender too in order to ensure the voltage doesn't drop in the middle of the update.

Then check the firmware version and update if necessary. The process take about 10 to 15 minutes to update.

The current level I have is V 5.1.0.

The instructions on how to connect to WiFi and update the firmware are in the user manual which if you have lost it, is online on Can Am's website.

Note, when updating the firmware, the screen often goes blank for 10-15 second periods, just be patient. It will ask you when to perform the update after it is downloaded, and inform you what to do when it is finished.

I've had no problems with whatever USB and Bluetooth connections I use with an iPhone, Sena helmets comms, and a high quality 3 foot USB C data cable and a USB A to USB C adapter at the USB A connector in the glove box. I have a rubber USB C cover that attaches to the USB C cable to cover the connector when the phone is not on the bike, to prevent the connector possibly corroding over time due to ingress of moisture. I bought all three items from Amazon:

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[Snowbelt Spyder]

I saw the same video and changed out to a shorter USB cable. The results were better, but not great. (I enjoy his videos) The original post for this thread was for the entire display rebooting. The bluetooth fault may be a separate issue. The tech performed an update, and afterwards, ACP seemed to work without any issue. I'll have to take a few more rides to be sure.

Thanks for the information. Much appreciated.

Yes, I think one of the root causes that BRP was pursuing was that the BT software conflict, by having the phone AND headset both paired to the Spyder at the same time, was crashing the whole system. Pairing the phone to the headset instead, if a person needed that added audio service (like music on the phone) was solving that.