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0il compare

  • Thread starter Thread starter j pat
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j pat

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info on shell t6 and xps , sent two samples virgin oil to a oil lab for compering very complete, they showed that shell t6 5w40 was better than xps 5w40 . the shell t6 had more phosphorus & zink (anti wear additives) vicosity ,100c 210c better than xps . report also said both very good oil ---jpat
 
On some brands of motorcycles, phosporus and especially zinc additives can be harmful to some of the engine components. This is especially true when any bronze bushings are involved, as on older BMWs. BRP specifies that a motorcycle oil be used, and probably for good reason. What constitites a "better" oil is stricly a matter of interpretation. Use non-motorcycle oils or SM oils at your own risk.
 
NancysToy said:
Use non-motorcycle oils or SM oils at your own risk.
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Also note that Rotella T6 meets JASO MA for good wet clutch operation. However, it does not meet the tougher JASO MA2 for even better wet clutch performance. I asked Shell about that and a staff chemist replied that T6 did not "consistently" meet MA2 requirements and they had no plans to modify it to do so. For the best performance with wet clutches, go for a motorcycle oil that meets JASO MA2. That being said, BRP puts no info on their bottle about JASO specs nor do they list JASO MA or MA2 as a requirement in their owner's manuals.
 
Is there anything wrong with the oil recomended by BRP that is listed in the owners manual? If not why deviate from it.
 
NancysToy said:
On some brands of motorcycles, phosporus and especially zinc additives can be harmful to some of the engine components. This is especially true when any bronze bushings are involved, as on older BMWs. BRP specifies that a motorcycle oil be used, and probably for good reason. What constitites a "better" oil is stricly a matter of interpretation. Use non-motorcycle oils or SM oils at your own risk.
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That's why I use Amsoil 10w/40 motorcycle oil. After I put Amsoil the first time the engine made less noise and the SE5 shifted better. BajaRon had it tested at 6,000 miles and the oil was in good shape. Oil is like any thing else, if quality it costs more. That's IMHO.

Mike
 
jerpinoy said:
Is there anything wrong with the oil recomended by BRP that is listed in the owners manual? If not why deviate from it.
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A lot of dealers use "barrel oil". I don't even know what grade that is in most cases. Oh they stock the good stuff but change your oil with barrel oil unless you ask and pay more.
 
jerpinoy said:
Is there anything wrong with the oil recomended by BRP that is listed in the owners manual? If not why deviate from it.
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There are numerous, extensive oil threads on this forum. Use the "search" function to find them. You'll find info on specs, test results, and lots of anecdotal comments. You can decide for yourself what makes sense to you.
 
jerpinoy said:
Is there anything wrong with the oil recomended by BRP that is listed in the owners manual? If not why deviate from it.
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There is nothing wrong with the stock oil BRP recommends. There isn't anything wrong with the stock tires, stock windshield, stock grips, stock foot pegs, stock exhaust, stock lighting, stock paint, stock suspension, etc.

I am sure there are people who buy a Spyder and never change anything and there is nothing wrong with that.

But if you ask; 'Is there something better' then the answer is YES! And there-in lies the answer to the 2nd part of your question; 'Why deviate from it?'
 
BajaRon said:
There is nothing wrong with the stock oil BRP recommends. There isn't anything wrong with the stock tires, stock windshield, stock grips, stock foot pegs, stock exhaust, stock lighting, stock paint, stock suspension, etc.

I am sure there are people who buy a Spyder and never change anything and there is nothing wrong with that.

But if you ask; 'Is there something better' then the answer is YES! And there-in lies the answer to the 2nd part of your question; 'Why deviate from it?'
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Hi Ron,
There are people that going trade thier Spyder every two to three years. They do the minimum amount of maintenance and using what ever. I do the maintenance by the book, due to I keep my vehicles for a long time, so I use the best oil, filters, gas, spark plugs and wires. My Spyder RS-S is a 2011, Mustang 2000, and Jeep 2003. They all are on Amsoil, and all run like new.
 
amsoil

i am using a mixture of 10w40 amsoil and 10w40 mobil 1 , both motorcycle specific oils .the big improvement was in the shifting .with the BRP oil , sometimes it would not auto downshift , especially when the oil was getting older and lower level(but still above the add line ) the mixture was just because the local store did not have enough amsoil to fill my bike , but i am going with all amsoil next time .both of these oils are full synthetic .
 
MikeinGA said:
Hi Ron,
There are people that going trade thier Spyder every two to three years. They do the minimum amount of maintenance and using what ever. I do the maintenance by the book, due to I keep my vehicles for a long time, so I use the best oil, filters, gas, spark plugs and wires. My Spyder RS-S is a 2011, Mustang 2000, and Jeep 2003. They all are on Amsoil, and all run like new.
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There isn't anything wrong with doing it either way. It is hard for us that are always looking for a better mouse trap to understand why others are satisfied with OEM. But they don't understand why people like us are always trying to re-invent the wheel, so it's mutual.

I suppose it takes both. And both types think they are living on the right side of the tracks! :ohyea:
 
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