09 RS - HID question answered

[SpyderWolf]

Remember though.. when I get ready to start my Spyder my stereo is running, my leds are on, the GPS kicks up, the headlight HIDs will fire, etc etc.. so I could be drawing more power than most people on start or when the spyder is running.

Maybe a need a marine deep cycle battery

Wolf,

Are you running stock battery or a replacement?
BTW: I really like your yellow fogs with the yellow LEDs man. That matches perfect!

You have been like a mad scientist with this project, and I am glad that you finally got it sorted out. :thumbup: I don't have a stereo, so that is one less thing I need to worry about right now.

I still have the stock battery in there right now, but I do have a brand new Scorpion battery sitting here in my office. My plan is to place one of the batterys in the trunk, and then rewire my LED control box so I can quickly switch between what battery powers them. I figure if I run just them on the stand alone battery I should be able to get a good 6 hours of glow while at a show or something. I am also looking into Lithium Ion, as the new packs are much smaller and lighter than the normal motorcycle batteries. The Scorpion battery is rated quite a bit higher than the stock for Amp/Hrs and CCA, so I am thinking it might be best to use that one for my main starter battery, and relegate the stock one to LED duty. I can recharge the stock one with a battery tender as needed.

Thanks for the compliment on the yellow fogs and LEDs. I need to take the time to make another video now showing all of the lights working together for the total effect.

 

[NancysToy]

You have been like a mad scientist with this project, and I am glad that you finally got it sorted out. :thumbup: I don't have a stereo, so that is one less thing I need to worry about right now.

I still have the stock battery in there right now, but I do have a brand new Scorpion battery sitting here in my office. My plan is to place one of the batterys in the trunk, and then rewire my LED control box so I can quickly switch between what battery powers them. I figure if I run just them on the stand alone battery I should be able to get a good 6 hours of glow while at a show or something. I am also looking into Lithium Ion, as the new packs are much smaller and lighter than the normal motorcycle batteries. The Scorpion battery is rated quite a bit higher than the stock for Amp/Hrs and CCA, so I am thinking it might be best to use that one for my main starter battery, and relegate the stock one to LED duty. I can recharge the stock one with a battery tender as needed.

Thanks for the compliment on the yellow fogs and LEDs. I need to take the time to make another video now showing all of the lights working together for the total effect.

Why not use an isolator to prevent discharge of your starting battery, and wire the lights to the aux battery, like an RV trailer battery arrangement? The only problem I would see would be a need to ride longer to charge the main battery if you puilled the aux way down. The Battery Tender would take care of that, though. Of course you could incorprate solar panels into your Spyder just for fun.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Why not use an isolator to prevent discharge of your starting battery, and wire the lights to the aux battery, like an RV trailer battery arrangement? The only problem I would see would be a need to ride longer to charge the main battery if you puilled the aux way down. The Battery Tender would take care of that, though. Of course you could incorprate solar panels into your Spyder just for fun.

Wow, you are starting to get good at mind reading now as well Scotty! I have actually been kicking around the idea of using an isolator, ever since a conversation with Lamont during Biketoberfest in Daytona. I have just been approaching this next phase very slowly, which is a bit unusual for me.

Funny thing is I have also been looking at solar panel chargers as well. We have a gate to our property that is powered by a marine battery, and is constantly charged by a small solar panel. I have been looking at various sizes and designs, and found some flexible ones that I think would be really cool to play with.

I would also like to come up with a better place to mount the auxiliary battery, besides taking up trunk space.

 

[Motavar]

I updated the first message on this thread with a quick recap of stuff so far. So people don't have to read the whole thread

I can see Wolf with a solar panel strapped to his back during the day trying to charge his aux battery. heheheh

 

[Lamonster]

I would also like to come up with a better place to mount the auxiliary battery, besides taking up trunk space.

 

[Motavar]

Wont that get a tad too hot and melt or is it shielded in a tray?

 

[IWN2RYD]

Why not use an isolator to prevent discharge of your starting battery, and wire the lights to the aux battery, like an RV trailer battery arrangement? The only problem I would see would be a need to ride longer to charge the main battery if you puilled the aux way down. The Battery Tender would take care of that, though. Of course you could incorprate solar panels into your Spyder just for fun.

Just an FYI... That is a fantastic idea... I have been "Lurking" around other sites trying to see if I can replace the Frunk hood with a set of panels that will produce enough power to run a GPS or other low wattage items... I am not crafty enough to start from scratch :roflblack:...

Anyway... sorry for the hijack OP pps:

 

[Lamonster]

Wont that get a tad too hot and melt or is it shielded in a tray?

It got a tat hot/warm but never melted and seemed to work just fine. I'm not using it now in that location but it worked fine when I did. I had other issues that were causing my drain so I really don't need the extra battery now that it's fixed. I do plan on adding another battery on the RT in the left saddlebag for other reasons. :doorag:

 

[SpyderWolf]

Thanks for the picture Lamont. :thumbup: That could be just the ticket I am looking for.

As for the isolator, I am seeing a whole lot of options all based on various amp ratings. Since the magneto on the Spyder is rated at 500 watts, and the stock battery is rated at 21 amps, can I assume that a 70 amp isolator would be more than adequate? That is one of the lowest rated ones I have found so far.

Motavar, I was thinking more of putting the solar panel behind the windscreen, or on the seat while the Spyder is parked. I didn't have plans to wear it. :roflblack: Although Nelson-Rigg does have some bags with built in solar charging panels on them already.

 

[IWN2RYD]

I wonder if these will help with the HID issue? :dontknow: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php

 

[Motavar]

I wonder if these will help with the HID issue? :dontknow: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php

I believe the above link is only for cars that have solenoids that are integrated into the ballasts that power the shutter from low to high beam. If I understand what the link says, is that if you replace the stock ballast with aftermarket the solenoid isnt there or something so this replaces it? not sure.

I don't think it applies to the Spyder.

The spyder should be fine with a normal HID kit with a relay harness. Depending upon the initial power draw from different ballasts you may or may not need to compenstate for the initial power draw with a capacitor or a higher amp battery.

Edit: interesting find though on that solenoid though.

 

[IWN2RYD]

Gotcha :2thumbs:

 

[WrapFactory]

Motavar- Did you ever end up relocating the hid ballasts? Where do you have them mounted currently? Is everything still working well after installing the resistors?

Thanks for all the great info!!

 

[cyclelover63]

opcorn:

 

[SpyderWolf]

Motavar- Did you ever end up relocating the hid ballasts? Where do you have them mounted currently? Is everything still working well after installing the resistors?

Thanks for all the great info!!

I haven't seen him on here for a while now. :dontknow:

I did not use any resistors with my setup and have the headlight ballasts velcroed to the arch support behind the instrument cluster. My foglight ballasts are velcroed to the top sections above the radiator and oil cooler. The 55 watt ballasts I have did not melt any other wiring either. :thumbup:

 

[mrpickle89]

help needed please for capacitor

NOTE:
This thread is for the Spyder RS/GS.

I would suggest the following if you run HID fog lights:
- HID relay harness so the fog HIDs pull power directly from the battery.
- Replace your stock relays.
- Put a 470uf or 4700uf 35v capacitor on the power lead to the battery from the HID relay harness. This will buffer the initial power draw for the light when starting.

-Motavar

whats the schema how do you conect the capacitor i have this problem and would like to use this method to fix thank you!

 

[Motavar]

Motavar- Did you ever end up relocating the hid ballasts? Where do you have them mounted currently? Is everything still working well after installing the resistors?

Thanks for all the great info!!

Everything has been working great with the capacitor installed on the wire from the battery to the HID harness. Ballasts are just tie wrapped to the frame in different spots near the trunk.

 

[Questions]

SpyderWolf, any updates on the 55 vs 35w? Have you had any people flash you due to the 55w?

I am still trying to figure out if I want to order the 55w or just go with the 35w for my spyder.

Thanks

 

[BMF_RACING]

Great thread, very helpful and has answered many questions I've had. 55 watters will be ordered shortly for my RT. :2thumbs:

 

[SpyderWolf]

SpyderWolf, any updates on the 55 vs 35w? Have you had any people flash you due to the 55w?

I am still trying to figure out if I want to order the 55w or just go with the 35w for my spyder.

Thanks

They are working great for me so far, and I haven't really had anyone flash me yet that I can remember. I live out in the middle of the country and don't see a lot of traffic many times I ryde around here.

I like the 55 watts, but they may be overkill if you live in a more populated area than I do. The 35 watters would cut down on your overall power consumption.

The good news is even with all of the extra wiring I have done on my Spyder, the 55 watt A-Line slim ballasts have not gotten hot enough to melt anything. :thumbup: