How to adjust front shocks

Look in your operators manual.The tool is in your (Mcgiver) tool kit.Or you can do a search on this website.

I did mine the other day RT-Limited, standing on the right side (brake side) slide the jack under just where the foot peg is, you will see an ideal frame area to jack it up.

You only have to take the pressure of the springs does not have to leave the floor.

Under the seat is you tool bag, you will find a hook type tool for adjusting the shocks. You will notice notches on the bottom of the shock, bigger notches lower the spring tension, smaller notches tighten the spring tension.

I actually like 3 for its soft cushy ride, but push it hard in the corners or go by a big truck on the highway it wasn't stable enough for me.

I use 4 now, which seems to be the best of both worlds, 5 was a little harsh but great for two up.

I'm debating (with myself) if I want to buy the Elka shocks, my only reason would be adjustment. I want to be able to switch between two up and solo with out the need to jack up the spyder each time. I know the ride supposed to be better but I'm happy with the stock ride, seems a little expensive just to get the dial in adjustment.

harry

Have the Elkas and it's the best mod added to my bike...

I have deteriorating shoulder joints and a 2010 RT SE5. Standard shocks had me wrestling on a regular basis so I talked with John from Elka. Had the Stage 1's put on at Spyderfest and he sets at a mid-point that seems to work for just about everyone. My passenger noticed befoe I had a chance to say anything on the way back to the hotel. Basically why hadn't I done this sooner? The Elkas make the bike more stable as noticed by passenger; handles the wind tunnel effect around semis like a charm; bike has stopped the little bit of wander she used to pull in the lane and best of all...my shoulders don't feel any of the pulling any more! That means they should last me a lot longer ( I hope). ray:

Anyway (sorry for the wordiness), the Elka shocks Stage 1's have been a huge plus for my bike even if they are a little more expensive than some. Well worth the money and wish I had done it from the beginning. And I just leave them set where they are..,.works great for 2 up or solo so I'm thinking it is a good thing.

Diana

Utah Geezer said:

Do you have to take any tupperware off to adjust the front shocks up? Also are the shocks marked on which way to adjust them to move them from three to five? Clockwise, counter-clockwise? I have a jack to get the front end up but not sure what to do from there. Leaving Thursday morning for vacation on the RT Limited. Any help would be appreciated. Riding two up with wife and I so pretty sure I want to be to a 5 on my front shocks.

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No tupperware removal required. Here are the instructions taken from my shop manual.

Utah Geezer said:

Many thanks for the info and especially for the manual page that was posted illustrating the how to. Made a big difference in the handling and considering going with the after market Ilka's'.

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Spray the shocks [cam] with WD40, that will make it easier to adjust,:thumbup:

:agree::agree:

Just going up a notch on the factory shocks has seemed to make an improvement for me. I also found that my air pressure for the rear was almost 0. The bike would squat and bounce when getting on and off. After adding 45 PSI it ts much better. I need to keep an eye on the pressure because I know it had pressure when I brought it home from the dealer a few months ago. Don't know if it is normal to loose pressure that fast.

Thanks for the picture and the jack point. Just another thing to wonder about my dealer. I'm 250 and told them during the sale process I was going to put my wife on the back and go for a ride. Wouldn't it just make sense to tell the folks assembling the Spyder to preload the shocks so that we'd be pleased with the performance right out of the box instead of having to find it out here?

Jacking Point (s)

harrypottar said:

I did mine the other day RT-Limited, standing on the right side (brake side) slide the jack under just where the foot peg is, you will see an ideal frame area to jack it up.

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I have been trying to figure out where there are "safe" places to place a jack for raising the front end (and also the rear) and I still have not been satisfied with what I see. Following your description for placing a jack for raising the front, I still don't see any place that looks substantial enough to hold the weight. The first thing I see is the exhaust system (wouldn't want to put any weight on that!) Further towards the center of the RT I spot a "shiny" black area that looks promising...but a tapping on it easily gives a "hollow" ring. In other words, "thin" metal.

You only have to take the pressure of the springs does not have to leave the floor.[/QUOTE said:

In my "Operator's Guide" it states..."manually raise the front of vehicle to extend the suspension." I assume they mean using a jack, but if that's so, why don't they indicate where the jack should be positioned to avoid damaging the Spyder. I also think that the only way you could tell if the suspension is completely extended would be if the tire(s) were no longer on the ground.

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ADJUSTING SHOCKS

Instead of WD-40, I have used common Dish detergent from a squirt type bottle ......it doesn't stink and washes off very easy....I think it more slippery also.......IMHO....Mike......:thumbup:

Hmmm, wonder if I could just hang one front off the curb in front of my driveway... :yikes:

CycleChamp, do a search on "jacking". You will pictures and all the info you need