DriftBuster
New member
I have the BUDS to OBDII adapter. Is there any software available to owners that is affordable to the average user? My windows software isn't reading it.
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Is there any Owner affordable BUDS?
- Thread starter DriftBuster
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mecsw500
Well-known member
I would suspect that using a OBDII reader unit, rather than trying to adapt to a phone/tablet/computer via Bluetooth would remove a set of variables from the equation.
I tried quite a few OBDII adapters via Bluetooth on my Range Rover, from an iPhone and an iPad with numerous reader apps. None worked. I gave up and bought an OBDII native device, which actually worked. Obviously I have no idea which brand might work with your Spyder. I use an Innova brand as it supports Jaguar Land Rover trouble codes.
Note, an OBDII reader is only going to read generic codes applicable to all vehicles. The BRP specific codes, of which there are many, probably won't be accessible to anything but a genuine BUDS system. You may be able to reset generic codes, perhaps, but anything outside of that I truly doubt will be reset-able. You certainly won't be able to calibrate any of the BRP systems or modules I would have thought.
I tried quite a few OBDII adapters via Bluetooth on my Range Rover, from an iPhone and an iPad with numerous reader apps. None worked. I gave up and bought an OBDII native device, which actually worked. Obviously I have no idea which brand might work with your Spyder. I use an Innova brand as it supports Jaguar Land Rover trouble codes.
Note, an OBDII reader is only going to read generic codes applicable to all vehicles. The BRP specific codes, of which there are many, probably won't be accessible to anything but a genuine BUDS system. You may be able to reset generic codes, perhaps, but anything outside of that I truly doubt will be reset-able. You certainly won't be able to calibrate any of the BRP systems or modules I would have thought.
DriftBuster
New member
Like a bluetooth or USB connected dedicated OBDII reader I am already using? They work on supposedly all OBDII standard protocols, but refuse to connect.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
That’s because the Spyder is not an OBDII standard protocol. It’s proprietary. Having a plug adapter cable doesn’t mean the software can talk to each other. BUDS is the software that runs on your computer. In addition, you need the proprietary hardware interface. It’s more than just a hardware adapter. The whole thing is a complete system in order to work. Typically, any functionality you get from an OBDII scanner - if you find the right one - is limited - and is effectively just a toy, and usually ends up as just another paperweight on your workbench. What is your need, anyway?
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DriftBuster
New member
Need? Getting rid of error codes so I can try to figure out what's happening and if I fix it. I'm getting a P081B code, short to V+ (??) and low voltage and no amperage to the starter solenoid.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
The trap the folks get into, is the misconception that if they clear the code, that the problem goes away. That doesn't solve a thing. It's the other way around. When you fix the problem that caused the code in the first place, the code will clear on its own. (Except for C1282) A code is just the messenger. You can also see that the proprietary Spyder codes don’t match the OBDII definitions. A large number of Spyder codes won’t. Stay off of Google. That’s why a OBDII scanner does you no good. You could benefit from a shop manual if you don’t have one. 25 bucks. Full electrical diagram. I'll give you one. Download then zoom in. Fix the problem.
2011-12 wiring diagram.pdf
drive.google.com
2010-2011 Can-Am Spyder RT Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection
New updated full digital version as of 5/2019 High Definition Keyword Searchable Factory OEM Manual - 1260 Pages Covers the entire 2010-2011 CanAm Spyder RT / RTS / Ltd. series (all versions) Contains over 450 pages of extra content never included in the book including: The full BRP 804 page...
brpmanuals.com
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DriftBuster
New member
Clearing the code DOES let me know if I fixed the issue with each step I take. Never saw stored codes clear themselves.
And the ohm rating is WAY off. Every relay is at about 130 ohms, both old and NEW.
Also trying to figure out why I'm getting less than 100 miles on a tank. Long term trim and oxygen sensor data are highly suspect.
Dusterdude
Active member
My brake light switch spring popped off a month ago and I got 2 codes related to it. After I reattached it, the codes disappeared.
Affordable is a relative term. With the problems you are describing, that's a rather in-depth dealer visit. At $150/hr labor charge, it doesn't take much to get to a 4-figure bill. I bought my system in 2020. Our 3 Spyders never saw a repair shop: not only monetary cost but the time that the Spyders would have been in queue for service (around here it was 2 weeks in their shop just to get a rear tire changed). And if your machine is over 10 years old, many won't even work on them (but that's as much about parts availability)
Powersports Diagnostics (www.powersports-diag.com) is the real deal. It comes with access to digital copies of Spyder service manuals. A reader will only ever be a reader. BRP chose to use a proprietary comm system to manage their fleet of vehicles, more than just Spyders. I believe it was posted years ago on this forum about someone trying to break the BRP code but was only marginally successful.
Powersports Diagnostics (www.powersports-diag.com) is the real deal. It comes with access to digital copies of Spyder service manuals. A reader will only ever be a reader. BRP chose to use a proprietary comm system to manage their fleet of vehicles, more than just Spyders. I believe it was posted years ago on this forum about someone trying to break the BRP code but was only marginally successful.
DriftBuster
New member
So it seems the BRP brand 6 pin to 16 pin adapter is just a paperweight??
mecsw500
Well-known member
Where did you buy it from? I'll buy one and give it a go with my OBDII reader. Do you have a part number etc?
DriftBuster
New member
After looking over the wiring diagram (needed it printed on 36x48 paper at Staples to read it), I've determined the "short to V+" is affecting much of the trike's electrical system. I don't think even BUDS will work on it as the ground is showing 1 volt less than battery voltage, 11.5 to 12.5 ish. I'm beginning to think there's an issue with the ECU, something I understand will require BUDS to reprogram to my bike.
DriftBuster
New member
Issue seems to be power. 11.5 volts, but no amperage to power the OBDII unit. Same as with the power to the starter solenoid.
mecsw500
Well-known member
You say the ground is showing less than one 1 volt under the battery voltage, but that is relative to what? Every voltage should be relative to the battery's -ve terminal or the frame/engine block. Perhaps I'm not understanding you correctly?
If you have 1 volt less than the battery voltage somewhere in the ground wires in the electrical system relative to the battery -ve terminal, there's obviously an electrical issue somewhere. Everywhere there is a ground wire, certainly for the ground wires that are part of the power supply to the various intelligent modules in the system, there should likely be 0 volts differential between it and the battery -ve terminal.
If you have a high parasitic draw, then try removing and replacing each fuse one by one and measuring the voltage available across the battery or from the +ve terminal of the battery and the engine block/frame as you do so.
I'd suggest, as a part of your diagnostic, that you check where the negative cable from the battery attaches to the ground point on the frame/engine on your bike. That needs to be clean and very tight. Of course the same applies to the battery terminals. The battery of course needs to be in tip top condition and fully charged.
If you could explain a little more about whereabouts you are measuring voltage, like between which wires and which ground point, it might help us throw a bit more light on the issue.
Cobranut
Well-known member
I bought BUDS and the interface from https://diag-systems.net/
They're a Ukranian company, and their prices are considerably less than the other suppliers.
Delivery did take some time. I had an issue with the interface, which actually may have been my fault, and they stood behind their product and sent a replacement.
They post regular updates as well.
Here is their Facebook page:
www.facebook.com
They're a Ukranian company, and their prices are considerably less than the other suppliers.
Delivery did take some time. I had an issue with the interface, which actually may have been my fault, and they stood behind their product and sent a replacement.
They post regular updates as well.
Here is their Facebook page:
Licenses BUDS BUDS2 DIUS | Novoye Zaporozhye
Licenses BUDS BUDS2 DIUS, Novoye Zaporozhye. 336 likes. Diagnostic equipment for BRP is always available Diagnostic kit All 4-TEC/E-TEC, MPI-3 interface Lice
www.facebook.com
DriftBuster
New member
Battery fully charged.
13.7 volts to negative terminal of the battery
FB-c3, d3
12.5 volts to negative terminal of the battery
FB-c4,d4
Purple wire to starter solenoid, no current to activate solenoid, requires alternate acc source.
Purple wire to starter solenoid
0 ohms to ground:
FB-c4, d4
Parasitic drain maintains between .07 and .13 amps no matter what fuse I pull. Are there any fuses other than in the frunk or under the seat on the right side?
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