• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Check Engine lamp and fault codes P061E & P0504, Brake signal not plausible, Brake lights on all the time, is this normal, or is something else wrong?

G

Gnforge

New member
New here, longtime bike rider
My wife hasn’t been able to ride for eight years, so we made the jump and purchased a 2026 RT limited Sea to Sky. Picked it up last week, awesome machine, we love it - the mechanic warned me Lol. I kept grabbing for hand the brake and the clutch, but no problems adjusting. With that said, the check engine light came on, with two codes listed. The mechanic said it was very probable that I had my foot on the brake a little too long while riding, possibly as I was having trouble adjusting to that brake pedal. Now, there's no cruise control with the check engine lamp on. It's
going in on Friday for him to reset it. My faults question is - my brake lights are on all the time... Is this normal with this code and the check engine lamp on, or do have another issue?
Thank you.
 
This code is normal if you are dragging the brake pedal a bit. When the brake light switch comes on, the computer checks for an increase in brake fluid pressure. If there is none, then you get the codes. Just keep your foot clear of the pedal except when braking. It’s a thing almost every new Spyder rider goes through. It is NOT normal for your brake lights to be on all the time with your foot off the pedal, with or without a code. Maybe that’s the root cause after all. Sounds like your brake light switch springs and linkage need inspected and a little switch adjustment may be in order. They’ll figure it out on Friday.
 
Last edited:
Snowbelt Spyder said:
This code is normal if you are dragging the brake pedal a bit. When the brake light switch comes on, the computer checks for an increase in brake fluid pressure. If there is none, then you get the codes. Just keep your foot clear of the pedal except when braking. It is NOT normal for your brake lights to be on all the time with your foot off the pedal, with or without a code. Maybe that’s the root cause after all. Sounds like your brake light switch springs and linkage need inspected and a little switch adjustment may be in order. They’ll figure it out on Friday.
Click to expand...
That was my thought also. I'm a long time rider & operated a lot of equipment. I was surprised if I rode the brake, but I admit I was trying to adjust to moving from a bike to the Spyder. Also, I noticed there's no cruise control. When I got home, I noticed the brake lamp on all time, and I couldn’t get it to go off.
I’ll be sure to let the tech know on Friday.
Love the Spyder, looking forward to using it a lot. It's a new chapter for my wife also. Happy wife, Happy life. Lol
Thank you for your response much, appreciated.
Greg
 
For some models there was a recall for problems with the brake pedal return springs or something like that.

Look on the NHTSA.gov website using your make, model and year.

I hope it gets sorted.
 
FYI, pressing the brake pedal kicks off CC, so that is why it won't set again, as it is seeing the brake (lamps) are on. Pull up on the pedal and see if the brake lamps go off.
 
Snoking1127 said:
FYI, pressing the brake pedal kicks off CC, so that is why it won't set again, as it is seeing the brake (lamps) are on. Pull up on the pedal and see if the brake lamps go off.
Click to expand...
Yep tried that, still on.
Found the switch underneath, didn't lift the bike, just reaching under. The small spring to the switch I think felt loose, I tried pushing and pulling the spring & switch, nothing changed, the light still stayed on. I was unable to move the switch, which felt to be plugged in ok.
Only 160 miles on it.
 
Update wasn’t my foot on brake? Dealer reset fault, but comes right back. No brake lights no haz lights no cruise control. Turn sig work ok. Loss VSS signal.
Dealer had to keep it Friday. Wife came picked me up. Called Saturday not fixed technician waiting for call from Can Am tech support Monday morning. Bummer, ride weekend turned into work weekend.
 
Gnforge said:
Yep tried that, still on.
Found the switch underneath, didn't lift the bike, just reaching under. The small spring to the switch I think felt loose, I tried pushing and pulling the spring & switch, nothing changed, the light still stayed on. I was unable to move the switch, which felt to be plugged in ok.
Only 160 mile
Click to expand...
Does sound like a faulty switch doesn’t it? The dealer should be able to remove the switch and test it on the bench with a multimeter? It shouldn’t need for BRP to get back to them in order to order a new switch. They should also be able to disconnect the switch and simulate its action with a jumper on the exposed cable connector. I don’t think the switch is a CanBus device.

What happened to good old diagnosis and fault isolation?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Spyder Hawk
A strange problem - engine stumbling and idling rough, now all sorts of codes - any ideas?
Replies
14
Views
3K
Spyder Hawk
Spyder Hawk
Back
Top