acdcking12
Member
Just want to make sure that this will work fine in our Spyders. I think so, but asking anyway. Thanks guys
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Does this Ultra Plus Full Synthetic 10W40 oil work for our Spyders?
- Thread starter acdcking12
- Start date
Gwolf
Well-known member
What is the difference between JASO MA and JASO MA2 oil?
The main difference between JASO MA and MB is whether the oil is suitable for a wet clutch or not. In 2006, MA1 and MA2 were added as extra categories within the JASO MA specification. The main difference between these two categories is the higher friction performance MA2 oils are delivering.
The main difference between JASO MA and MB is whether the oil is suitable for a wet clutch or not. In 2006, MA1 and MA2 were added as extra categories within the JASO MA specification. The main difference between these two categories is the higher friction performance MA2 oils are delivering.
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acdcking12
Member
Thank you Gentlemen. Will order some and give it a shot.
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
Good Luck on your research project.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Just ran across this thread after reading Ron's post and watching the video. Acdcking, did you ever try the Ultra plus oil? If so what did you think?
GRHorst
Active member
The key is, just change it regularly according to specified intervals. Oil discussions always go on-&-on every time it comes up in discussions. Note however: Every time I change my oil, I can hear the difference in the engine and transmission sounds. That sound change gives me the satisfaction that I have done something right.
Note: That I am a musician and piano tuner. So I hear things differently perhaps. ... Or maybe ... I'm just hearing noises in my head ... I dunno?
Note: That I am a musician and piano tuner. So I hear things differently perhaps. ... Or maybe ... I'm just hearing noises in my head ... I dunno?
KX5062
Well-known member
The MA2 spec is specifically designed for use with catalytic converters, which most motorcycle did not have until recently.
troop
Well-known member
Best price I've seen ... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...NhusTOSKpMz5zmkI35Vk64GM_omSUkWMaAglREALw_wcB
BajaRon
Well-known member
Synthetic blends are almost always 90% standard mineral oil with 10% non-true synthetic (mineral oil with an additive package). It's more marketing and profit margin for the seller than it is a valueable upgrade for the user.
I compare it to getting a bottled drink that is 90% tap water and 10% spring water. Are you really upgrading the tap water that much? But the bottom line is, yes it will work as long as it meets the stipulated requirements (wet clutch, etc.)
I compare it to getting a bottled drink that is 90% tap water and 10% spring water. Are you really upgrading the tap water that much? But the bottom line is, yes it will work as long as it meets the stipulated requirements (wet clutch, etc.)
mecsw500
Active member
Well Amazon says it has their "full synthetic" for $56 per 6 quarts, and their "synthetic blend" for $50 per 6 quarts.
Now how "full" is "full synthetic" I don't know, but the price for their purported "full synthetic" and "synthetic blend" are seemingly very close to each other. Whether there is much difference between one having a gold top to the bottle and the other having a red cap to the bottle I don't know. I guess one would have to read the fine print on the bottle as to what the base stock is.
Either should work in a Spyder with the appropriate oil change intervals I would have thought. I'd probably spend the extra $6 for the full synthetic, but then again I might just be a sucker for marketing.
troop
Well-known member
I'm still waiting to read who has the first oil related engine failure here using in spec grade. If an oil meets API requirements, it should be good to go....
We all should be having our oil analyzed more often. Much like going to our doctors for our yearly check ups. They caught my problem with routine tests when I did not have any symptoms. Years ago I had my oil analyzed when I was using the recommended oil change kits from BRP which showed the viscosity was critically low. Quit using that oil and switched to a true full synthetic. I now save over $60 per oil change. Last sample showed viscosity was within specs
BajaRon
Well-known member
I believe what many people may be missing in this discussion is the vast difference between a well functioning engine and one that fails. Personally, I don't think prevention of total failure should be the bench mark we shoot for.
If the 20w that XPS and other lubricants shear down to at around 5,000 miles is OK for another 4,300 miles (recommended service interval). Why not spec 20w oil to begin with?
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