Oil question - will this oil work in my 2018 F3-L?

[acdcking12]

Will this specific oil work with my 18 F3L?

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10...&sprefix=valvoline+10w40+,aps,220&sr=8-5&th=1

 

[JayBros]

Do a little research and check your operator's guide. If the label on the oil bottle(s) says it meets the API Service code(s) shown in your operator's guide the oil can be used.

 

[pegasus1300]

If you go to the link provided you will see you can look at the back of the bottle where it gives the API rating and the JASO RATING which is MA2. That is what you are looking for for wet clutches which is what all spyders have.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Will this specific oil work with my 18 F3L?

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10...&sprefix=valvoline+10w40+,aps,220&sr=8-5&th=1

I used to use this oil, it's JASO MA2 - SL certified. The reason I stopped was because Rotella T6 ( which has a similar rating ) can be bought for much less. And often has a really good re-bate ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ulflyer]

It does meet the requirement of Jaso MA2. Personally, If I planned on a long run...say 6K or more...I'd run Amsoil.
I know nothing negative about Valvoline or other brands but do have many years on various machines with Amsoil.
BajaRon, a forum vendor, sells everything you need.

 

[2dogs]

Considering what we have to pay to own these machines which have the recommended 9k oil change interval, and what the dealer charges for a service call, why are some folks trying to penny-pinch on oil prices? Trying to scrimp a buck or two (per quart) on a five-quart oil change is beyond me. Five to ten bucks will hardly buy a round of drinks in most places. However, some of us are all fired up about trying to save that much on a sometimes once-a-year oil change? Personally, I change my own oil at 9k and I don't back. I look forward to my next oil change and all the enjoyment that comes between the two.

 

[acdcking12]

Considering what we have to pay to own these machines which have the recommended 9k oil change interval, and what the dealer charges for a service call, why are some folks trying to penny-pinch on oil prices? Trying to scrimp a buck or two (per quart) on a five-quart oil change is beyond me. Five to ten bucks will hardly buy a round of drinks in most places. However, some of us are all fired up about trying to save that much on a sometimes once-a-year oil change? Personally, I change my own oil at 9k and I don't back. I look forward to my next oil change and all the enjoyment that comes between the two.

I was just making sure this would work. It is about 50% cheaper than amsoil, but looks to be on par with it quality wise.

 

[2dogs]

I was just making sure this would work. It is about 50% cheaper than amsoil, but looks to be on par with it quality wise.

I totally understand the overpriced accessories and parts we that choose to purchase for our rides. It all comes down to personal preferences. For the cost of the 5qts of Amsoil that's the lifeblood of my machine, I wish to go with a known and proven product. Now for the price of let's say highway pegs, on the other hand, I may go for the cheap. But not on my oil. In days gone by I've helped rebuild I don't know how many vehicle engines. And before I ever started the rebuild process I always had the reusable parts tanked and cleaned. My dad owned an auto repair shop and I always got the dirty jobs. Dad knew all his customers and how they treated their cars. Some engine blocks were as clean could be and hardly needed boiling out at all. Others were so cruddy they had to be dipped twice. The primary reason was the quality of the oil used by the vehicle owner. Intervals of oil changes also had an effect on engine life and cleanliness. Simply just my lifetime of observations.

 

[BajaRon]

I was just making sure this would work. It is about 50% cheaper than amsoil, but looks to be on par with it quality wise.

Have it tested at the end of your run. That's the only way to know what kind of service it is giving you. You might be surprised. What an oil looks like on paper, and what it looks like in an independent analysis can be quite a different story. They say 'The proof is in the pudding'. And they are right.

 

[JayBros]

I was just making sure this would work. It is about 50% cheaper than amsoil, but looks to be on par with it quality wise.

One has no way of knowing how an oil will perform without analysis. The transmission beats the devil out of oil in a Spyder. What good is an oil that is half the price of Amsoil if it shears down from 40 weight to mid 20 weight at 5,000 miles when Amsoil is in the very high 30 weight range after 9,300 miles. Not much of a bargain in my book.

 

[2dogs]

One has no way of knowing how an oil will perform without analysis. The transmission beats the devil out of oil in a Spyder. What good is an oil that is half the price of Amsoil if it shears down from 40 weight to mid 20 weight at 5,000 miles when Amsoil is in the very high 30 weight range after 9,300 miles. Not much of a bargain in my book.

I think most of us who post here have sent our oils in for analysis at least at one time or another.

 

[PMK]

I think most of us who post here have sent our oils in for analysis at least at one time or another.

Nope, never been concerned.
Been involved with oil samples and SOAP analysis for decades on aircraft engines. These days, only samples taken are on turbine engines and when a customer requests it.
Have had engines with great SOAP tests and engines failed badly. Had engines with marginal SOAP test get to TBO.

Regarding samples and SOAPs done on your Spyder, it is accurate to say the Spyders 1330cc engine will easily last virtually forever, the gearbox though, not so much. The only true spec indicated via a SOAP for the 1330 is viscosity. Truth told, if you pay attention, you can feel when the gearbox prefers new oil.

 

[BajaRon]

Nope, never been concerned.
Been involved with oil samples and SOAP analysis for decades on aircraft engines. These days, only samples taken are on turbine engines and when a customer requests it.
Have had engines with great SOAP tests and engines failed badly. Had engines with marginal SOAP test get to TBO.

Regarding samples and SOAPs done on your Spyder, it is accurate to say the Spyders 1330cc engine will easily last virtually forever, the gearbox though, not so much. The only true spec indicated via a SOAP for the 1330 is viscosity. Truth told, if you pay attention, you can feel when the gearbox prefers new oil.

Oil isn't the only variable here. There are always going to be outliers. But generally speaking. A lubricant that maintains original parameters the longest, is going to offer the best engine protection. Most fleets of over the road and earth moving equipment run oil analysis on a regular basis. And statists show that this has not only guided them to superior lubricants. But saved them much more than what the testing program costs. In this day, I don't think they would be throwing away their money on a program that does not produce results.

Not saying that everyone needs to get their oil tested. But it is a valid indicator in most cases. Certainly better than hoping for the best.

 

[Little Blue]

OIL Change

I have my oil tested at each Oil and Filter change. I am currently using Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. I use to change the oil at 6000 miles. Now I change my Oil and Filter at 8500 miles. This was all base on my oil sample reports. It's Your Spyder and Your money, So DO Whatever you want.
My Tip: Try OIL Samples and see what they tell.

 

[PMK]

Oil isn't the only variable here. There are always going to be outliers. But generally speaking. A lubricant that maintains original parameters the longest, is going to offer the best engine protection. Most fleets of over the road and earth moving equipment run oil analysis on a regular basis. And statists show that this has not only guided them to superior lubricants. But saved them much more than what the testing program costs. In this day, I don't think they would be throwing away their money on a program that does not produce results.

Not saying that everyone needs to get their oil tested. But it is a valid indicator in most cases. Certainly better than hoping that things are good.

Sorry Ron, just had too many incorrect SOAP reports on engines costing far more a tricked out Spyder. Proper inspection of the oil filter and drained oil is a very important part of an oil change.

Ironically, in the post after yours by Little Blue, he uses the same Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil in his Spyder, that I have run in ours for all but the approximate first 3000 miles. Little Blue is having his oil tested. His findings have put him on a change interval that previously was 6000 miles and is now at 8500 mile oil change intervals.

Without getting too wrapped around the axle as they say, I would believe that if Little Blue gets reports where he is confident to go 8500 miles on his oil, me, using that same product, Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil, and changing the oil and filter at each 5000 miles as the shifting begins to get more notchy, my change interval is likely ok.

No, I will not know the ppm of iron, silica, copper, tin and more, my loss I guess.

BTW, to this day, I still find 540Rats oil testing methods valid and unbiased. I no longer utilize BITOG website. The Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil rates very high as a motorcycle oil MA or MA2 oil on 540Rats website. When I last looked, 540Rat had not tested the Amsoil moto oils, but hopefully he will one day. He gave very high remarks about one or two Amsoil products, and hopefully that continues.

 

[2dogs]

Sorry Ron, just had too many incorrect SOAP reports on engines costing far more a tricked out Spyder. Proper inspection of the oil filter and drained oil is a very important part of an oil change.

Ironically, in the post after yours by Little Blue, he uses the same Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil in his Spyder, that I have run in ours for all but the approximate first 3000 miles. Little Blue is having his oil tested. His findings have put him on a change interval that previously was 6000 miles and is now at 8500 mile oil change intervals.

Without getting too wrapped around the axle as they say, I would believe that if Little Blue gets reports where he is confident to go 8500 miles on his oil, me, using that same product, Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil, and changing the oil and filter at each 5000 miles as the shifting begins to get more notchy, my change interval is likely ok.

No, I will not know the ppm of iron, silica, copper, tin and more, my loss I guess.

BTW, to this day, I still find 540Rats oil testing methods valid and unbiased. I no longer utilize BITOG website. The Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil rates very high as a motorcycle oil MA or MA2 oil on 540Rats website. When I last looked, 540Rat had not tested the Amsoil moto oils, but hopefully he will one day. He gave very high remarks about one or two Amsoil products, and hopefully that continues.

Not a darn thing wrong with your and/or Little Blue's choice of oils. Excellent brand of oil. I use Mobil 1 in my wife's hemi and will continue using it. Change it at 6k intervals. Those of us here that have had Amsoil and other 100% Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oils analyzed at approx 9K miles, all seem to receive the same results. Just where in the sky BRP picked out 9,300 miles for an oil change could be anyone's guess, however, I'm sure it was thoroughly discussed first with Rotax and they agreed. And it appears from the test results they are correct. At times I think we obsess more on what we put in or on our rides than what we give our kids to put in their mouths or in their minds. But that's a discussion for another form.

 

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

Will this specific oil work with my 18 F3L?

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-10...&sprefix=valvoline+10w40+,aps,220&sr=8-5&th=1

On almost any new vehicle, run the weight oil it calls for, which is 5W40 Synthetic.

 

[BertRemington]

Question on oil analysis -- will it find clutch material?

Will oil analysis show clutch plate material?

I'm 3rd owner of 2014 RT-S SE6 purchased with 77K miles of SoCal (mostly) riding, most mileage probably two people with trailer by first owner.

Replaced the oil (and both filters) with BRP 5W40 semi-synthetic. The oil color was black but otherwise looked good. I also installed a GlowShift oil pressure gauge (3-wire pressure transducer) which I think is fairly accurate (indicates 58psi cold which matches BRP relief). Around 80K I replaced the oil (and both filters) with LM/Spectro 5W40 synthetic. I'm now closing in on 84K and Motul 7100 15W50* is being delivered today (filters next week). 5W40 ain't working for me.

Should I have NAPA analyze my LM/Spectro oil? My concern is clutch plate wear.

WRT to observed oil pressures. First, oil pressure is greatly affected by ambient temperature. I usually run and shift above 3500rpm. At 70 degrees the oil pressures at speed and idle are 2-4lbs higher than 100 degrees. Second, I think freeway riding results in cooler oil even if the coolant temperature never changes from 4 bars (and it doesn't change) because shifting is better shortly after leaving the freeway. Third, shifting is superb when the engine is cold (up to about 1-2 coolant bars) and then gets a bit inconsistent on surface streets at 4 coolant bars WRT clutch/shifter timing and matching engine RPM (with oil pressures typically low 40s at 100 degrees). 90% of my riding is above 50mph with 60% above 70mph.

I think the engine is great and I like the transmission. I'm wondering about clutch life which it would be great if oil analysis could provide some information.

WRT to BRP and LM/Spectro comparison at 3K miles, oil pressures and shifting performance are similar if not identical.

* Motul makes excellent motorcycle oils and I think viscosity is key to my clutch performance. Since this is a SoCal ride I skipped over a 10W40 experiment and went straight to 15W50 which I will also use in the Royal Enfield. For the Spyder I will be following a 5K both filters regime.

 

[Woodaddict]

15W50 weight oil is supposed to be used on air cooled engines. i wouldn't use that heavy on water cooled Spyder, but whatever you decide to do.............

 

[Sarge707]

I have used that very oil in my GS,RT and F3 for a total of 75,000 miles but I change the oil every year at 3-3,500 miles because I have 2 vehicles.