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Problem - getting a P160E code - anyone else had experience with this error?

Marek

Member
After starting, the P160E error appears, along with the Check Engine error. Nothing else happens. The check engine light disappears after increasing the engine speed. This doesn't happen every time, but I'm worried it will eventually go into limp mode. The Spyder has been to two dealerships for repairs. The latter replaced the battery and reprogrammed the TPS. The error didn't reappear for a while, but now I have the same problem, only with a lighter wallet.
Has anyone had any experience with this error?
 
After starting, the P160E error appears, along with the Check Engine error. Nothing else happens. The check engine light disappears after increasing the engine speed. This doesn't happen every time, but I'm worried it will eventually go into limp mode. The Spyder has been to two dealerships for repairs. The latter replaced the battery and reprogrammed the TPS. The error didn't reappear for a while, but now I have the same problem, only with a lighter wallet.
Has anyone had any experience with this error?
Well, the specific component associated with the code is the ETA, not the TPS. That's not good news if it is failing. It's interesting that increasing RPM clears the problem, because on the 998, increasing RPM increases the charging voltage from the Magneto. But, the engine ground isn't involved. The ETA is powered directly from the ECM on both the + and - wires. Not saying that going after grounds isn't a bad idea, or checking the charging system performance. Just don't limit yourself to the engine ground. Check out the main chassis ground. Is it under the seat on an ST? Just follow the main negative cable from the battery, and you'll find it. And while you're there, check out the battery terminals, also. There is a major ground with multiple connections to it, up towards the front of the frame. Although a gummy throttle body is usually a different code, you might consider a TB cleaning if all else fails. If you remove the top of the airbox and find a goodly amount of oil in there, it’s worth the time and effort anyway.

If you put the code into the forum search box, you will find some history there. Unfortunately, it was usually resolved by a throttle body / ETA replacement. Sorry. Good Luck.

Screenshot 2026-04-28 at 7.31.08 AM.jpg
 
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... Not saying that going after grounds isn't a bad idea, or checking the charging system performance. Just don't limit yourself to the engine ground. Check out the main chassis ground. Is it under the seat on an ST? Just follow the main negative cable from the battery, and you'll find it. And while you're there, check out the battery terminals, also. There is a major ground with multiple connections to it, up towards the front of the frame. ...

IIRC, all of the 2013-2016 V-Twin Spyders have their main 'frame ground' on the frame in the 'tunnel' between the wheels & behind the battery, which is itself behind a panel on the back wall of the frunk, just like the 2014+ 1330 Spyders. The 2013-2016 V-Twins also had that 'remote terminal & ground' connector with multiple connections on it that was under the LH cover panel under the frunk lid just below the LH headlight - see the following pics, the red cap is over the remote positive terminal, which also has the large red cable from the battery and the small red wire connected to it, while the bare nut in the RH top corner of the second & third pics, the one you can see with a green wire leading to it, is the negative/earth terminal:

WIN_20240430_16_56_56_Pro.jpg - WIN_20240430_16_57_36_Scan.jpg - WIN_20240430_16_57_44_Scan.jpg

It was only the pre-2013 Spyders that had the battery and main ground under the seat, with that dodgy 'pressed in' captive nut for the ground/earth on the frame cross member, a nut that stripped out of the frame very easily if the earth bolt was over-tightened, so you could no longer make a good connection until remedied.
 
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