-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
How can you tell when it is time to replace front shocks?
- Thread starter JimH
- Start date
Mikey
Well-known member
How does it roll in the corners? Do you have a lot of body roll, pogo effect on bumps, run in a straight line on bumps without chasing it? When you make a hard stop will it really crush the front end? To tell you the truth I am not the one to judge on this subject because I totally hate the OEM shocks they give us on our bikes, at least the F3's and RT's! I think they are generic junk, I have better shocks on my sled than my bike! I have 4000 miles on my new S2S and already plan on taking the fronts off before next Spring! I did it to my 2012 RTL and it was one of the best things I did to that bike! So if you have the coin and want to do a good thing for your bike, get it new shocks! If you don't have the coin, there are some spacers out there, I believe BajaRon sells them, they will at least give you a little more preload and get the bike off the ground a little more in the front, and that will give you a little better handling! Give him a call and ask him what he thinks, he's a straight shooter!!!
BajaRon
Well-known member
Good shocks are expensive. Manufacturers save a lot of money by putting relatively low quality shocks on new machines. This goes for most vehicles. Though I will say that BRP is providing better shocks than they did in the beginning. The first 5 years (2008-2013) were dreadful. Without riding on a good set of shocks, most people never realize what they are missing.
Determining when shocks need to be replaced can be difficult without a setup specifically designed to test them. In my experience, the typical lifespan for a set of OEM shocks on the Spyder is 35~40k. And this is quite generous. Lifespan can be shortened significantly depending on how hard they have been worked. If mostly on smooth surfaces, then 40k may be reasonable. If they have had a good diet of potholes or rough surface roads, like highways that have the rhythmic seam bounce found on some concrete surfaces, or other harsh and annoying roads, then shock life can be shortened to less than 35k.
Shocks are kind of like spark plugs in that they deteriorate slowly, masking the aging process.
Of course, if the shock is leaking fluid or has other obvious signs, they need to be replaced. But if they get that bad, they've probably been past their service life for quite some time.
A cursory test can be made by rocking the Spyder back and forth as violently as you can, then remaining rigid at the end of the last swing so that your body is not assisting in the dampening process (something that you will probably do instinctively). You want to pay close attention to how quickly the shocks control the action when you stop.
At the very most, they should only allow the bike to return just slightly past centerline, come back to centerline, and then stop. You should be able to feel the hydraulic action of the shock energetically suppressing the side to side movement. If at all possible, compare this to a new or relatively new Spyder for a better idea of shock function.
Determining when shocks need to be replaced can be difficult without a setup specifically designed to test them. In my experience, the typical lifespan for a set of OEM shocks on the Spyder is 35~40k. And this is quite generous. Lifespan can be shortened significantly depending on how hard they have been worked. If mostly on smooth surfaces, then 40k may be reasonable. If they have had a good diet of potholes or rough surface roads, like highways that have the rhythmic seam bounce found on some concrete surfaces, or other harsh and annoying roads, then shock life can be shortened to less than 35k.
Shocks are kind of like spark plugs in that they deteriorate slowly, masking the aging process.
Of course, if the shock is leaking fluid or has other obvious signs, they need to be replaced. But if they get that bad, they've probably been past their service life for quite some time.
A cursory test can be made by rocking the Spyder back and forth as violently as you can, then remaining rigid at the end of the last swing so that your body is not assisting in the dampening process (something that you will probably do instinctively). You want to pay close attention to how quickly the shocks control the action when you stop.
At the very most, they should only allow the bike to return just slightly past centerline, come back to centerline, and then stop. You should be able to feel the hydraulic action of the shock energetically suppressing the side to side movement. If at all possible, compare this to a new or relatively new Spyder for a better idea of shock function.
Last edited:
Yabbadabbadoo
Active member
At about 50,000 miles, my 2020 F3S left front shock was leaking. Replaced it with a friend's take off shock with less than 15K on it. I also found out that those shocks are rebuild-able.
troop
Well-known member
At a MSRP of around $138, it doesn't pay to rebuild the OEM shock.
Shock Package T, LTD
706001697 - https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/p/can_am/706001697/shock
$137.49
iSilentP
Active member
Other than the 2 shocks here:
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/p/can_am/706001549/shock
is there anything else I should consider from this list?
https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/cam/602170a287a8660f147ed045/suspension-front
troop
Well-known member
Springs can fatigue over time, but shock oil/gas degradation is a bigger culprit of wear.
Yabbadabbadoo
Active member
Yes it wouldn't make sense for that shock. The part # for my front shock is 706001699. It's listed at $409.99.
BajaRon
Well-known member
That's just for the shock body. The spring (which you should also replace), is another $62.49. And they aren't even adjustable! You wouldn't need all the other parts (sold separately). You can move them from your current set. They don't wear out. Still, not a very good deal at all.
ToymanT
New member
If you are not completely happy with the ride on the surfaces you face, and you plan on keeping it for years to come, then upgrading to aftermarket shocks will make a great improvement. Best thing we did to my wife's ‘17 RT Ltd was to switch to Baja Ron's sway bar and Elka Stage 2 shocks. Now it corners and handles the bumps so much better. Well worth the upgrades.
troop
Well-known member
Makes no sense?? Even a 2025 shock body for a 2025 F3L is $138.
Mikey
Well-known member
I think you'll find it's the whole shock not the shock body, body, spring, the whole shock!
BajaRon
Well-known member
You might think so. But not if you're purchasing it from BRP. Each and every component is sold separately. At $137.00 for the body, they can't be much of a shock.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Well, you do have a point there. That would be a very inexpensive way to go. Still, for that price, they have to be pretty cheaply made.
Mikey
Well-known member
You are very right on your point, and the OP also fell off the radar from the first post and has not made any reply's! This post may have run into the weeds a bit for him!!
Dasmoetorhead
Well-known member
What about the KYB Shocks that came on my F3S?
When I was looking at the differences of the F3 & the F3S, BRP brochure said the F3S had better shocks. IDK.
I've got just shy of 14k on the machine and they seem to be ok. Maybe leaning a bit more when cornering, but bumps, dips, and whatever else I've encountered seems ok. I ain't no suspension pro that's for sure. I am considering a new Elka or Wilber for the rear. I'm 6'-1" at 230, and I think I'm maxing out my rear shock.
We're talking about fronts though. My front KYB' s do have a way to adjust spring tension. The rear doesn't.
I know BAJARON'S has do dad's that can go on the fronts to make adjusting the spring rate easier. I'd hate to go through all that only to find out a better shock would have been a better idea. My current shocks look like new. No leaks, and the shafts are super clean and rust free.
When I was looking at the differences of the F3 & the F3S, BRP brochure said the F3S had better shocks. IDK.
I've got just shy of 14k on the machine and they seem to be ok. Maybe leaning a bit more when cornering, but bumps, dips, and whatever else I've encountered seems ok. I ain't no suspension pro that's for sure. I am considering a new Elka or Wilber for the rear. I'm 6'-1" at 230, and I think I'm maxing out my rear shock.
We're talking about fronts though. My front KYB' s do have a way to adjust spring tension. The rear doesn't.
I know BAJARON'S has do dad's that can go on the fronts to make adjusting the spring rate easier. I'd hate to go through all that only to find out a better shock would have been a better idea. My current shocks look like new. No leaks, and the shafts are super clean and rust free.
jcthorne
Well-known member
I have several sets of brand new take off shocks for various Spyders including one set for an F3S (the rear is different for the S). I will not box and ship but if anyone local (Houston TX area) needs them, contact me for an appointment to come by the shop and get them. They are free to anyone who believes they can use them.
Similar threads
