SteveandBelinda
Member
On a 2014 1330 , does anyone know what the toque specs are on the engine oil drain plugs, and which one is considered the transmission plug? The one on the left side as you are sitting on bike?
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Anyone know what the Torque Specs are for the engine oil drain plugs?
- Thread starter SteveandBelinda
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IGETAROUND
Active member
Hi Steve,
Torque specs are for DRY bolts. 15 Ft lbs; having said this I have heard of others stripping when torqueing oil pan drain bolts. Use a 3/8's drive socket, place the head of the ratchet in the palm of your hand, using two fingers on the shaft of the wrench to tighten. Do NOT apply tightening force at the end of the ratchet handle.
And yes I believe that the one on the left when seated is the transmission plug.
Al in Kazoo
JayBros
Well-known member
NO! The plug on the left is the Oil Sump, aka crankcase plug, and is a Torx T45 bit; the plug on the right is the Clutch Cover, aka transmission plug, is a 6mm Allen if the engine has OEM plugs. The torque specs, whether one uses them or not are Oil Sump 21 lbft, +/- 1 lbft; Clutch Cover 15 lbft +/- 1 lbft.
SteveandBelinda
Member
Thanks guys. I remember that I have a shop manual on DVD, and it is what you said 21 sump, and 15 trans side.
Smolak48393
New member
Hey Steve! Just the information I was looking for. Reduce it by what percentage if the threads have oil on them?
I use the hex gold plugs, and torque to spec, wasn't a problem. I'm no expert or even semi-expert, but I've actually never heard of going lighter because they are (wet) oil plugs. There'd be no easy way to have them be completely dry.
Smolak48393
New member
Neither am I an expert, an engineer or even a mechanic. This just interested me so I Googled “torque dry vs. lubricated” and found more than a few references that you should reduce the torque on hardware that’s lubricated or has anti-seize on it. I’ve always dried the threads on my oil drain plugs but never thought to dry the threads in the oil pan. I guess I learned something new today.
Gwolf
Well-known member
I never use and never have used a torque wrench on drain plugs. If the plugs are threaded into aluminium, I wouldn't even consider it. I just snug the plugs down with a shorty 3/8 ratchet. They don't leak and they don't fall out. Over-tight drain plugs is asking for problems next time they have to be removed. I also use the sandwich fiber type drain plug washers, and replace them every time. You can get any size you need in bulk and have a jar full of them on the shelf. They are sold for oil drain plugs of foreign cars and are very inexpensive. You can get them on the web or at any of the discount auto-parts places. They have metric and SAE. It is a good idea to replace your OEM plugs with aftermarket hex head plugs too. If you torque the plugs or over-tighten them, there will be a problem removing them next time. Just snug them up, they won't leak and won't break anything next time they come out. The problem with torquing drain plugs is that torque specifications are normally for clean, dry threads. With oil drain plugs pointing down, and residual droplets of oil dripping out for hours, there is no way way to get clean, dry threads and any amount of lube on the threads will result in over-torquing.
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