How I connected my 2024 RTL to a Bushtec Trailer with independent Tail, Brake and Turn signals

Great job...

jzeiler said:

The purpose of this post is to document my solution to using a Bushtec Trailer with separate turn signals, tail lights and brake lights with a Can Am Spyder RTL 2024.

There are a few plug and play harnesses that are available but most just provide a 4 pin solution. I wanted the separate turn signal lights on the Bushtec and I needed a bit more current for my on board compressor for the air ride system on the trailer. I also had a plug and play adapter installed for the Afterburner tail lights and did not want to add two more connectors in series with the adapters as space is limited back there.

The BRP hitch comes with a harness that you could use to tap into the signals and a light duty power tap to run everything you would need. The BRP isolator is designed for a US style trailer fed by a 4 pin square connector. If you have no other modifications to your rear lighting you can use the BRP harness right up to the isolator.

I chose to tap into the signals ON the TricLED Afterburner adapters and make a harness to connect to the a modified Bushtec isolator. I opted to make the final harness to the trailer from the isolator removable so it was out of the way when not using the trailer and hitch. Main power was already run from the battery to the seat area for my heated riding gear so it made sense to tap into that for the high current I needed for the trailer.

The photos show most all of the details. I used a connector kit I ordered from Amazon for all of my harness connectors that I made for my harness.

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More pics to follow, as per the 'no more than 6 images per post' requirement.

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John,


Like you, I recently transitioned from two wheels to three wheels, sold my 2005 Honda Goldwing and bought a 2021 Can-Am Spyder RTL. I pulled a 2005 Bushtec Quantum GL trailer with the Goldwing and henceforth will pull it with the Can-Am Spyder. I will have no trouble doing the mechanical hook up, adapting the Can-Am trailer hitch to the Heim coupler on the Bushtech trailer, but get lost rather quickly when it comes to the electrical hook up. I have read your solution to this several times, but when I see all the wires, connectors, red arrows and numerous photographs, my eyes glass over and my brain goes numb.

My situation is simpler than yours, in that my trailer does not have an electric pump for the suspension system, the trailer came with a manual pump. Also, the trailer lights are all standard issue from the factory. I can buy a plug-and-play trailer harness from The USA Trailer Store via Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Harness-Trai...ocphy=1015116&hvtargid=pla-2281435177898&th=1), but the output is the standard flat four pin connector. So the question is “how do I do this conversion?”

-I realize that Bushtec uses separate wires for the turn signals which creates the two extra wires.
-I assume the “magic box” in the Can-Am plug-and-play harness is an isolator to protect the
Can-Am’s electrical system from any damaging signals from the trailer hook up; but is that really necessary for my situation?
My Goldwing to Bushtec trailer set up did not include an isolator and I never had any problems.
-It seems to me, if the output side of the “magic box” on the aforementioned harness was the same as the input side, with the same six wires,
it would be exactly what I want.

I would very much appreciate any and all help you could give me. Thanking you in advance!

jzeiler said:

I enjoyed making it but a far simpler solution can be had with the Show Chrome Accessory fuse block and isolator ($84.95 from Slingmods). It has available tie points for independent stop and turn signals and is more versatile than the “canned” trailer harness you posted on Amazon.
One connection under the seat and then you can run wires to all the lights on the Bushtec trailer, all you need is a simple harness that plugs into the trailer’s 6 pin connector. You can get that from Bushtec for about $40.

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Thanks much! I will buy the suggested harness/connector and give it a try. If I have questions or get stuck I’ll contact you again.

jzeiler said:

I enjoyed making it but a far simpler solution can be had with the Show Chrome Accessory fuse block and isolator ($84.95 from Slingmods). It has available tie points for independent stop and turn signals and is more versatile than the “canned” trailer harness you posted on Amazon.
One connection under the seat and then you can run wires to all the lights on the Bushtec trailer, all you need is a simple harness that plugs into the trailer’s 6 pin connector. You can get that from Bushtec for about $40.

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I ordered the Show Chrome Accessory fuse block and isolator ($84.95 from Slingmods) you recommended, but have since run across a YouTube video that installs the Show Chrome 41-362 harness:


https://jj-motorsports.com/show-chr...8S8wxBR95IZM24CwMeHR04Ev_0u_GDt0dhXHt2pNETs9x

Is one better than the other? Do they do different things? Should I stick with your recommendation or switch?

jzeiler said:

That harness attaches to the bike back at the rear lights area, a little harder to get at on the bike. It would be easier to use the original one plus it can be used to power other accessory lighting from the block, which is pretty handy to have. I think you would be better off with the original one. Cost is about the same and it is more versatile. In case you don't have it the color code for the Bushtec is as follows:

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Thank you, John. I will continue with the one you suggested, which should arrive within a few days.