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Is 15.4v while the engine is running good for Battery charging?
- Thread starter Marek
- Start date
Given that you've posted this in the Spyder ST discussion sub-forum and looking at your previous posts, it does look like your Spyder is a 2015 or earlier ST Spyder with the V-Twin motor, and if that's the case, then they have a 500 or 650 Watt Magneto charge system that doesn't usually ever put out that much voltage regardless of the load &/or unless the regulator has failed or the battery is dead, so it's quite likely that something isn't right there and will need fixing or replacement... which might be hard, given the age of those Spyders! 
But if it's a newer Spyder with the 1330 motor and an Alternator, then there is a possibility that if the electrical load is sufficiently high &/or the battery/electrical system needs that much charge; or if the battery is dead/dying, then the alternator might put out that much voltage... Altho I'd still think that further investigation is required...
So, what model is your Spyder/which motor & charging system does it have?? It'd help you AND help us to help you if you could add your Spyder's year/model to your sig line as requested in the Sticky below.
But if it's a newer Spyder with the 1330 motor and an Alternator, then there is a possibility that if the electrical load is sufficiently high &/or the battery/electrical system needs that much charge; or if the battery is dead/dying, then the alternator might put out that much voltage... Altho I'd still think that further investigation is required...
So, what model is your Spyder/which motor & charging system does it have?? It'd help you AND help us to help you if you could add your Spyder's year/model to your sig line as requested in the Sticky below.
CloverHillCrawler
Active member
I would check it with another meter for confirmation before doing anything.
My Spyder is a 2013 ST LTD and the YUASA battery is less than two years old...Given that you've posted this in the Spyder ST discussion sub-forum and looking at your previous posts, it does look like your Spyder is a 2015 or earlier ST Spyder with the V-Twin motor, and if that's the case, then they have a 500 or 650 Watt Magneto charge system that doesn't usually ever put out that much voltage regardless of the load &/or unless the regulator has failed or the battery is dead, so it's quite likely that something isn't right there and will need fixing or replacement... which might be hard, given the age of those Spyders!
But if it's a newer Spyder with the 1330 motor and an Alternator, then there is a possibility that if the electrical load is sufficiently high &/or the battery/electrical system needs that much charge; or if the battery is dead/dying, then the alternator might put out that much voltage... Altho I'd still think that further investigation is required...
So, what model is your Spyder/which motor & charging system does it have?? It'd help you AND help us to help you if you could add your Spyder's year/model to your sig line as requested in the Sticky below.
I checked the meter and it's ok
You should put that bit in your sig line, as requested in the Sticky I linked above, so that we don't have to ask (or guess) every time...
And the battery being less than 2 years old doesn't necessarily mean it's OK - batteries can and do fail at just a few months old, or even just days old!! Especially if they weren't prepared and fully charged properly BEFORE installation.
That said, I suspect that it's more likely your Spyder's regulator that's doing the wrong thing/not working/failed; IIRC the regulator is meant to limit the voltage to less than 14.5 - 14.8 volts, which is more than enough to run a few a/mkt accessories and charge the 12v battery - if it puts out anything much more than that it'll likely boil the battery &/or kill it pretty quickly!
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Before you get to carried away, is there any more to the story? Folks don't typically just randomly check on their battery voltage.
Plus, you need to test the charging system the correct way. First and foremost, remove your battery connections and make sure that the contact area is clean, replace and tighten. If you have a tender lead on there, don't put it between the post and the main wires, put the main wires on the post and the tender lead on top. Main electrical wires always go directly on the post for better contact. Start up the machine and load the electrical system, including head lights on high beam, and turn on the heated grips. If you have any other after market accessories installed keep them turned off.
Run up the engine to 4000 RPM and check the voltage at the battery terminals. Spec is 13.0 - 14 volts DC. Make sure that your meter is set on the proper scale - DC Volts - and double check with another meter before you replace anything. Replace regulator if significantly too high. That's their word, not mine. If it's somewhere in the 14 volt range, I wouldn't worry about it. Above 15 volts, probably need it replaced. You don't usually see these things failing too high, though. It is on the Electrical - Common Parts Diagram. 710001191
Plus, you need to test the charging system the correct way. First and foremost, remove your battery connections and make sure that the contact area is clean, replace and tighten. If you have a tender lead on there, don't put it between the post and the main wires, put the main wires on the post and the tender lead on top. Main electrical wires always go directly on the post for better contact. Start up the machine and load the electrical system, including head lights on high beam, and turn on the heated grips. If you have any other after market accessories installed keep them turned off.
Run up the engine to 4000 RPM and check the voltage at the battery terminals. Spec is 13.0 - 14 volts DC. Make sure that your meter is set on the proper scale - DC Volts - and double check with another meter before you replace anything. Replace regulator if significantly too high. That's their word, not mine. If it's somewhere in the 14 volt range, I wouldn't worry about it. Above 15 volts, probably need it replaced. You don't usually see these things failing too high, though. It is on the Electrical - Common Parts Diagram. 710001191
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I checked the battery because after a few days of inactivity it would not start. Now I think that it may be the fault of a certain peripheral device.
Thank you all for your interest, I will check again according to your instructions.
Regards from Lower Silesia.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well, ok. One more word, if the battery is dead or almost dead, don’t use your motor as a battery charger. It’s a magneto on yours, not an alternator. It causes high current out of your stator for a prolonged period of time, and can result in overheating and stator failure. Bring the battery back to full charge with a charger.
BajaRon
Well-known member
Exactly!
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