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Royal Purple Oil Question
- Thread starter M2Wild
- Start date
Dudley
New member
I put in the Max-Cycle 10W40. If that's not what's on the shelf, they can probably order it for you. So far, after almost 5000 miles, I still have not had any purple oil dripping on the right side (from the air filter box). I am very satisfied with the oil so far. I hope you will be also.
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Tom in NM
New member
I should know this . . . .
I used to work for the Marketing & Sales division of a major Lubricants Manufacturer and Blender. Every year, I put at least two weeks working in the labs, blending and packaging facilities. I knew a lot about oil - then. Now I have forgotten most of what I learned.
Does anybody KNOW if it is OK to mix Royal Purple Oil with the OEM BRP oil between oil changes? I had my oil changed at the dealer a little over 1k miles ago.
My vague recollection is that it would not be a problem mixing Refined Oil and Synthetic Oil (SAE and all classifications being the same and meeting all BRP specifications), but that is not good enough for me to risk screwing up the Spyder.
Given my background, I have not waded into the Forum's Oil discussions - as I said, given the 25 years that have passed, I just don't have a good enough memory of the specifics to add any credible value to the discussion.
Dudley, thanks for re-igniting the discussion on this. You got me thinking that 'upgrading' the oil would be a good idea, since I also live in the desert SW. And thanks for keeping the Forum posted on your results.
Tom
I used to work for the Marketing & Sales division of a major Lubricants Manufacturer and Blender. Every year, I put at least two weeks working in the labs, blending and packaging facilities. I knew a lot about oil - then. Now I have forgotten most of what I learned.
Does anybody KNOW if it is OK to mix Royal Purple Oil with the OEM BRP oil between oil changes? I had my oil changed at the dealer a little over 1k miles ago.
My vague recollection is that it would not be a problem mixing Refined Oil and Synthetic Oil (SAE and all classifications being the same and meeting all BRP specifications), but that is not good enough for me to risk screwing up the Spyder.
Given my background, I have not waded into the Forum's Oil discussions - as I said, given the 25 years that have passed, I just don't have a good enough memory of the specifics to add any credible value to the discussion.
Dudley, thanks for re-igniting the discussion on this. You got me thinking that 'upgrading' the oil would be a good idea, since I also live in the desert SW. And thanks for keeping the Forum posted on your results.
Tom
It didn't say "Max-Cycle" on it. So I guess RP have a version for MC use. Will go to my cycle dealer and ask them for it. Thanks for the additional info. Thats what I was wondering about.
irish2themax
New member
Spoke with my brother who now owns 3 H-Ds. He said that almost all synthetic oils are the same. He said he uses Mobile-1 since that's what is used in his high performance Vette. My Mercedes CLK-350 used the same. So I'm thinking of going that route.
As he said, "Road oil is better than no oil"
As he said, "Road oil is better than no oil"
Dudley
New member
I wouldn't mix it, just because. If anything would happen, the price of repairs is not worth the mix. 2000 more miles and you can go 100% Royal Purple Max-Cycle 10W40 if you so decide.
Desert Spyder
New member
I have noticed a definite change for the better since switching to RP a week ago. I still haven't been on a long run yet. Shifting is better, power is better. If all synthetics were the same, why is RP performing better than BRP's?
teacherbob
New member
FYI Spyder riders,
I have Royal Purple on my website now.
Bob
PowerSports4Less.com
I have Royal Purple on my website now.
Bob
PowerSports4Less.com
Oil is heavy to ship and almost not worth buying over the internet unless you can beat local pricing.
Dudley .... thanks for the email. I will go to my local spped shop and see if they carry the RP "max-cycle". Since I don't put a lot of miles on the spyder, I might consider using the road oil instead of the cycle oil as it gets swapped out every fall.
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Don in E Texas
New member
I'm no oil expert, but I think oil not made for motorcycles has an additive that will cause clutches in an oil clutch system to slip. Others here on the Forum might have a better explaination... Oil made for motorcycles does not contain this additive.:dontknow:
don
Does not seem to compute. Less addititive more expensive. Logically it should be the otherway around.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
But true... the friction modifiers added to car-type oil are the thingies bad for your wet clutch. And, don't forget that the SM rating is also a no-no for bikes... apparently contains these as well.
Firefly
Active member
Has to do with quanity of product sold - obviously they sell far more car oil so it will be less expensive to produce. Also has to do with marketing. You could run the RP car oil and shouldn't have any problems- but I would spend a bit more and get the Max- Cycle.
Trickie Dick
New member
Amazon has a case (12) of RP Max cycle 10w-40 for $146. Free shipping. :thumbup:
That's pretty good deal. Considering that you might not have to pay tax.
Dudley
New member
That's a VERY good deal! I pay $60 for 4 qts after taxes. Even changing every 5000 miles, that comes around quite often (10,000 miles in 6 months). I may look into that Amazon deal.
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