Oil Analysis

[JayBros]

Based on Steve's explanation of the stabilizing of the viscosity shear after initial drop I am going to have my current engine load of Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 analyzed at 2,000 mile intervals without filter change to see how the viscosity looks at each point. I will be replacing the test sample each time but that should have no significant effect on the remaining oil. If it looks good, I'll keep riding it all the way to 9,300. Will have to see. Don't know how long it will take but will publish all reports.

 

[IGETAROUND]

A couple questions:

How?

How much?

$6.00/ test:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes: we can afford all of that!!!!

Copy the company name, go to their web site and ask them to send you prepaid kit. Cost is $6.00 / bottle Sell single, 3pack and 6packs. They seem to be VERY slow on shipping so if you want to do this get in touch with them tomorrow. They are based in Ohio so on EST.

Sorry missed the first part of your ?

 

[IGETAROUND]

Based on Steve's explanation of the stabilizing of the viscosity shear after initial drop I am going to have my current engine load of Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 analyzed at 2,000 mile intervals without filter change to see how the viscosity looks at each point. I will be replacing the test sample each time but that should have no significant effect on the remaining oil. If it looks good, I'll keep riding it all the way to 9,300. Will have to see. Don't know how long it will take but will publish all reports.

This would be wonderful information for all; GO FOR IT:clap::clap::clap:hyea:hyea:hyea:nojoke

 

[IGETAROUND]

The comparison to then and now is only valid if we are comparing EQUALS.....Spyders share engine and trans oil, the 50's & 60's usage you are referring to, I believe was auto / engine only oil......I agree the Lubricants of today are far superior, But when the usage combines the engine and trans the comparison can't apply..........The Spyder needs better OIL and more frequent changes IMHO........Mike :thumbup:

But Mike there were a couple of bikes around then also. However I do understand your point:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[wiredgeorge]

:agree: It does seem silly to think that they'd want you to run far enough to destroy the oil's usefulness, and your engine in the process... :yikes:
They DO put a time parameter in there also: one year. Mine will be going in at the beginning of August... :thumbup:

The reason for a time constraint between oil changes is that when a vehicle sits, condensation occurs in the crankcase and there is quite a bit of moisture involved. The bike being run is easier on the oil than not run at all and I think the year between changes if the bike isn't run much is the result of the condensation. Most bikes that are started once every couple weeks and left to idle a minute or two during winter storage have more harm done than good.

 

[2dogs]

Just got my oil report back

Sent my oil in for analysis to Schaeffer Web scope PM here is what they returned on BRP full synthetic with 4500 miles:

This is the second oil change; first was @ 580 miles.

Wear metals: Iron 103, Chromium 1, Lead 4, Copper 38, Tin 2 Aluminum 13 Nickel 1 Silver 0 Titanium 0 Vanadium 1

Multisource: Silicon 5 Boron 45 Sodium 10 Magnesium 62

Additives: Calcium (makes strong bones) 2196 Phosphorous 990 Zinc 1168 Molybdenum 17 Barium (constipates) 1

Viscosity 100ccSt 9.52

Their statement was: CAUTION

Have changed both oil and filter and put in Amsoil. Will report back after next 4500 miles are on.

Would appreciate those more knowledgeable to chime in and explain for those of us who have little to no clue as to what this all means. :yes::thumbup:

The oil I sent in was the second oil change on my 2014 RTS SE6. The first oil change was done by the dealer at 3k+ (about 3,300). The dealer changed the oil, filter and performed the bike's first service installing BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend oil as recommended by BRP. The second oil change was done by myself at 9,500 miles. So, I ran BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend for approx. 6k miles and that was the oil I had tested. The results were as follows; (ppm) Preformed through Napa Oil Analyst by U.S. Laboratory in Portland, Oregon

Metals - Iron 19, Chromium 1, Led 3, Copper 7, Tin 3, Aluminum 11,Nickle 1, Silver 1, Titanium 1, Vanadium 1,
Contaminants - Silicon 13, Sodium 9, Potassium 4
Additives - Magnesium 59, Calcium 2036, Barium 1, Phosphorus 725, Zinc 798, Molybdenum 1, Boron 11
Contaminants - Water% 0.05, Coolant none
Physical Tests - Viscosity (cSt 100cc) 8.5
Physical/Chemical - Base Number (mgKOH/g) 4.9
Analyst showed **Caution

According to Bob the Oil Guy's oil chart, BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend oil viscosity continues to decline in viscosity as millage increases. This has been confirmed by BRP saying that their oil declines to 20w and then stabilizes at some point. More independent tests should confirm that info but in the mean time I switched over to 10/40w Amsoil. I'll post my next test after I run Amsoil for 6k miles.

---

 

[wis2013rtltd]

It is

The oil I sent in was the second oil change on my 2014 RTS SE6. The first oil change was done by the dealer at 3k+ (about 3,300). The dealer changed the oil, filter and performed the bike's first service installing BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend oil as recommended by BRP. The second oil change was done by myself at 9,500 miles. So, I ran BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend for approx. 6k miles and that was the oil I had tested. The results were as follows; (ppm) Preformed through Napa Oil Analyst by U.S. Laboratory in Portland, Oregon

Metals - Iron 19, Chromium 1, Led 3, Copper 7, Tin 3, Aluminum 11,Nickle 1, Silver 1, Titanium 1, Vanadium 1,
Contaminants - Silicon 13, Sodium 9, Potassium 4
Additives - Magnesium 59, Calcium 2036, Barium 1, Phosphorus 725, Zinc 798, Molybdenum 1, Boron 11
Contaminants - Water% 0.05, Coolant none
Physical Tests - Viscosity (cSt 100cc) 8.5
Physical/Chemical - Base Number (mgKOH/g) 4.9
Analyst showed **Caution

According to Bob the Oil Guy's oil chart, BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend oil viscosity continues to decline in viscosity as millage increases. This has been confirmed by BRP saying that their oil declines to 20w and then stabilizes at some point. More independent tests should confirm that info but in the mean time I switched over to 10/40w Amsoil. I'll post my next test after I run Amsoil for 6k miles.

---

Interesting to see the full vs. synthetic blend comparison above. Thanks.

 

[gypsy_100]

A couple questions:

How?

How much?

$6.00/ test:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes: we can afford all of that!!!!

Copy the company name, go to their web site and ask them to send you prepaid kit. Cost is $6.00 / bottle Sell single, 3pack and 6packs. They seem to be VERY slow on shipping so if you want to do this get in touch with them tomorrow. They are based in Ohio so on EST.

Sorry missed the first part of your ?

I looked at Schaeffer's website and they quote $15.99 for a test kit including postage, if that's who you are referring to. They also note that they do not provide the TBN number (total base number). From what I can read, the TBN tells you the amount of additive left in the oil that fights the effect of acids that would normally build up in the oil. A very low TBN would not be a good thing.
For comparison, I've used Blackstone Labs which charges $25.00. Quite a bit higher but they do include the TBN and a "real person" looks over your results and offers a critique of the results. Not saying it's any better than other tests out there. Just putting it forth as another option. Whatever...

 

[Trbayth]

I used Blackstone years ago for a pickup truck I owned. At the time I took the sample, I was having a head gasket problem, although I didn't know it yet. Fast forward a bit (after getting the gasket fixed) someone from Blackstone actually called me at home because they were concerned about the level of anti-freeze in the oil sample.

Just a little additional info to help you make the decision as to which lab to use.

 

[KX5062]

The oil I sent in was the second oil change on my 2014 RTS SE6. The first oil change was done by the dealer at 3k+ (about 3,300). The dealer changed the oil, filter and performed the bike's first service installing BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend oil as recommended by BRP. The second oil change was done by myself at 9,500 miles. So, I ran BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend for approx. 6k miles and that was the oil I had tested. The results were as follows; (ppm) Preformed through Napa Oil Analyst by U.S. Laboratory in Portland, Oregon

Metals - Iron 19, Chromium 1, Led 3, Copper 7, Tin 3, Aluminum 11,Nickle 1, Silver 1, Titanium 1, Vanadium 1,
Contaminants - Silicon 13, Sodium 9, Potassium 4
Additives - Magnesium 59, Calcium 2036, Barium 1, Phosphorus 725, Zinc 798, Molybdenum 1, Boron 11
Contaminants - Water% 0.05, Coolant none
Physical Tests - Viscosity (cSt 100cc) 8.5
Physical/Chemical - Base Number (mgKOH/g) 4.9
Analyst showed **Caution

According to Bob the Oil Guy's oil chart, BRP's 5/40w syn/dino blend oil viscosity continues to decline in viscosity as millage increases. This has been confirmed by BRP saying that their oil declines to 20w and then stabilizes at some point. More independent tests should confirm that info but in the mean time I switched over to 10/40w Amsoil. I'll post my next test after I run Amsoil for 6k miles.

---

Your change is almost identical to what I did. However, I didn't have the foresight to send it in for analysis. :banghead:

What I did notice was visually what appeared to be a viscosity breakdown. In that when the oil came out it was only slightly thicker than water flowing.

I too switched over to the Amsoil. However, next time this will be going to the lab. :thumbup:

 

[Orange Spyder Man]

I may be mis-understanding your OIL change schedule........But I would NOT leave used dirty oil in the engine / trans between riding seasons AMSOIL or another...........................JMHO.......Mike :thumbup:

our riding season here is 12 months a year.. :clap:

osm

 

[Roadster Renovations]

I have just about 800 miles to go on the BRP semi 5x40 before I send it in. It will have 5k on it by then. Interested to see if that shear has stopped at 20wt.

 

[jaherbst]

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn::chill::chill::chill:
Too many here trying to practice Rocket Science without a Rocket Science degree. Let BRP worry about the oil change intervals. They recommend 9300 between oil changes and they do the warranty work. That's good enough for me. I used to do oil analysis on my high performance aircraft but finally decided it was a waste of time. If your worried about it, cut the filter in two and see if you can see any visible metal tailings. Stop worrying about the viscosity. It will still lubricate.
Don't get run over by the Elephants worrying about the piss ants. You will live longer and be happier.:joke: JMO

Jack

 

[Bob Denman]

Let BRP worry about the oil change intervals. They recommend 9300 between oil changes and they do the warranty work...
...Don't get run over by the Elephants worrying about the piss ants. You will live longer and be happier.:joke: JMO

Jack

:agree: BRP isn't going to suggest that you use a lousy, oil for too long; just so that they can have more warranty work! :2thumbs:

 

[PMK]

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn::chill::chill::chill:
Too many here trying to practice Rocket Science without a Rocket Science degree. Let BRP worry about the oil change intervals. They recommend 9300 between oil changes and they do the warranty work. That's good enough for me. I used to do oil analysis on my high performance aircraft but finally decided it was a waste of time. If your worried about it, cut the filter in two and see if you can see any visible metal tailings. Stop worrying about the viscosity. It will still lubricate.
Don't get run over by the Elephants worrying about the piss ants. You will live longer and be happier.:joke: JMO

Jack

Jack, I must agree on the aircraft engines. I have sampled and seen test reports on recip engines all over the place. Some engines actually had metal in the filters which had good SOAP sample results, while others were spot on that impeding failure was coming, and still other engines really didn't care but ran and ran.

One cool thing on the 1330 Spyder is you don't even need to cut the filter to see if the engine is puking its guts. Pull the filter and wash it in a clean pan with mineral solvent. Then paint strainer the mineral spirits. I did not even bother, nothing looked metallic, so I tossed the first two filter in separate Ziploc bags with date and mileage on the bag and saved them. Any questions ever arise, the filter can be inspected.

PK

 

[PMK]

:agree: BRP isn't going to suggest that you use a lousy, oil for too long; just so that they can have more warranty work! :2thumbs:

True, but the gearbox sure shifts sweet with something other than the BRP blended stuff. Mobil 1 10/40 Motorcycle oil has really smoothed out our machine in regards to shifting, going into reverse, and how smooth the clutch engages. Amsoil, Rotella and other may also see similar results.

Still have a new bottle of BRP blended oil, free if you come pick it up.

PK