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1330, The Great Oil Debate!

Purple Guy

Purple Guy

New member
Let me start by saying that I’m a huge proponent of 100% full synthetic oil.
Every vehicle, boat, snow blower & lawn mower I own has only bathed it’s innards with 100% full synthetic oil.
I believe that the extra cost for the oil is justified for the superior protection it offers.
When I did my first service on my 2014 RTL I used BRP’s XPS full synthetic oil.
To me, switching from the blended to the full synthetic, the shifting seemed to get a little harsher.
The first thing I noticed when I went from my 2012 RTL to my new machine was how smooth it shifted.
I’ve never had any slipping but the shifting to me just seems more noticeable.
So I'm looking for opinions from anyone that cares to share one, is the full synthetic to lubricious for the gearbox / clutch.
 
Haven't done my first oil change yet - that's why I'm watching these threads. However, unless I shift at 1500 - 2000 rpm, my transmission is harsher than my 2010 was. I don't think it's the oil.
 
As I see it..!!

there are a lot of oils out there that work for both engines. The shifting diference is in the transmission and engines not so much the oil. I use the blends but never had problems with any oil I used. Good quality and frequent changes keeps things running smoothly. There are more oils than oil companies so many are made by the same company with different names. Just cause a race car painted with oil ads wins dosen't make that oil the best. The more cylinders the better the shifting the more gears the better the shifting. So use quality oils meeting the specs and you will do great...jmo :thumbup:
 
I am yet to change the oil in my 2014 RT limited... but when I do.. it will be to FULL SYNTHETIC OIL.. namely Castrol 5W40 full synthetic MOTORCYCLE OIL which has a JASO MA-2 & APi SL rating.. if you notice a SL rating is approved to use according to your owners manual.

available from Amazon..

osm
 
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I have about 6900 miles on synthetic oil (6100 with Mobil 1 10-40 and 800 with BRP full syn) and I have not noticed any harsher shifting.
I also try to run synthetic in all my bikes and Spyders.
 
Your best bet is to buy and use the recommended oils specified in the owner's manual. The manual is very specific on what is and isn't appropriate. They do recommend full synthetic oils. I just don't understand why people don't trust what the vehicle manufacturer says.
 
COST OF OIL

:hun:.....Rotella T - 6 , 5w 40 Full Synthetic $ 21.40 per Gal @ Walmart...........................This oil meets or exceeds all the requirements for use in the 1330 Ace engine ...........so cost is not a factor..Mike :thumbup:.................................................I have been using it with no issues
 
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My owner's book states that BRP's or any other blended oil is a minimum and goes on to say that you can use any synthetic oil with the standards stated. For me that means use fully synthetic.
 
Art Mann said:
Your best bet is to buy and use the recommended oils specified in the owner's manual. The manual is very specific on what is and isn't appropriate. They do recommend full synthetic oils. I just don't understand why people don't trust what the vehicle manufacturer says.
Click to expand...

I don't think it is so much a matter of trust as a matter of looking for something better. But it doesn't help the 'Trust' factor that those who have tested the recommended 'Blended' BRP oil are getting results which indicate that it doesn't hold up for even 6,000 miles much less the 9,000 mile recommended service interval.

Trust is a great thing. But it won't lubricate your engine.
 
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I'm patiently awaiting Doc's oil analysis. I've used full synthetic in my cars for decades and really see no reason to avoid it on my :spyder2:.
 
Art Mann said:
Your best bet is to buy and use the recommended oils specified in the owner's manual. The manual is very specific on what is and isn't appropriate. They do recommend full synthetic oils. I just don't understand why people don't trust what the vehicle manufacturer says.
Click to expand...


Simply because there are better oils available for less money... any other questions ?

osm
 
Art Mann said:
Your best bet is to buy and use the recommended oils specified in the owner's manual. The manual is very specific on what is and isn't appropriate. They do recommend full synthetic oils. I just don't understand why people don't trust what the vehicle manufacturer says.
Click to expand...

Having read your post again I may have misunderstood your meaning in my 1st response.

If your point is that the 'Blended vs Full Synthetic' debate should be resolved by the Owner's Manual instructions on this subject, then I agree with you 100% and I apologize for my misunderstanding of your statement.

The manual does make it clear. And it might correct the ridiculous information given to one Spyder rider by his dealer who informed him that BRP recommends AGAINST using a full synthetic oil and that they (as a dealership) will not put a full synthetic oil in a Spyder! :yikes:

I guess you can't blame a guy for believing what his dealer told him (though I never do without verifiable confirmation). Nor can you blame him for advising others to do the same. Thank you for pointing out that at least this portion of the debate is easily verified and put to rest.
 
Ron, you really did misinterpret my original message. However, I would like to address once again the subject of motor oil testing. These companies are very good at measuring viscosity, lubricity, contamination and chemical breakdown of motor oils. They are not, however, authorities on what lubrication material and schedule is required for a particular engine. It is the engine manufacturer who spends millions to answer that question. It may be worthwhile to measure BRP oil against other brands to see which has better characteristics and maintains these characteristics for longer periods of time. That data doesn't necessarily indicate whether a particular oil is good enough to protect the engine until everything else about the vehicle wears out. The worst of the lot maybe just as good as the best based on that criterion. What else matters other than price?
 
Thanks for weighing in on this on going debate everyone!
After reading all your comments I feel safe with my decision to stick with my original conclusion that full synthetic is and always will be the way to go! :yes:
 
Art Mann said:
Ron, you really did misinterpret my original message. However, I would like to address once again the subject of motor oil testing. These companies are very good at measuring viscosity, lubricity, contamination and chemical breakdown of motor oils. They are not, however, authorities on what lubrication material and schedule is required for a particular engine. It is the engine manufacturer who spends millions to answer that question. It may be worthwhile to measure BRP oil against other brands to see which has better characteristics and maintains these characteristics for longer periods of time. That data doesn't necessarily indicate whether a particular oil is good enough to protect the engine until everything else about the vehicle wears out. The worst of the lot maybe just as good as the best based on that criterion. What else matters other than price?
Click to expand...

I understand what you're saying. Companies do spend a lot of money on engineering and testing. And you would think that testing the oil samples would simply confirm that the recommended lubricant is holding up just fine.

The problem is that there is unbiased evidence that this may not be the case.

If an oil shears to 1/2 it's rated viscosity, 3,000 miles short of the recommended service interval, why does that not indicate a lubrication issue when it certainly would in any other application.

Are you saying that BRP feels a 20 weight or lower viscosity oil will provide adequate lubrication? I suppose this is possible. But I know of no other internal combustion engine that would tolerate (over time) this much loss in viscosity. I know viscosity is only 1 aspect. But it is a pretty important one. That's why viscosity numbers are so prominently marked on the label. And why there are cries of 'Foul' whenever a manufacturer allows their product to deviate very far from the claimed viscosity.

One of the biggest contributors to the cost of a lubricant is engineering in the ability to maintain its rated viscosity. Maintaining the rated viscosity is one of the most difficult duties of any lubricant. And, one of the most important.

Typically, as the Viscosity numbers go, so go most if not all the other attributes of a lubricant. In other words. You usually get bad numbers across the board or good numbers across the board. The worse the numbers, the more likely you'll start to see evidence of hard parts being worn away.

While I agree that there may be something I am missing. I don't think there is any witch hunt to find a problem that isn't there. So far the numbers seem to be pretty consistent from one test to the next, and they are nothing to write home about, (though I admit, there have been only a few).

Since there are better lubricants available that meet and exceed all the BRP specs. which are producing more favorable test results, it does seem to present a compelling case to me for bumping up the quality of lubricant.

Just my perspective. There are many others. Bottom line, everyone takes their chosen route. As long as it's a discussion and not an argument, we all profit.
 
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