Auto Tire on the Rear

[WaltH]

I am now using an auto tire on the rear of my Spyder. The tire is a B. F. Goodrich g-Force Sport for which I paid $112 locally. It could be somewhat less on the internet. At first, I was going to use the same tire Deb and Lamont are using, but then decided to pay more to get a tire rated better for resistance to hydroplaning. Hydroplaning is my principal concern. We are all using a wide tire which is lightly loaded. Tire ratings for things like resistance to hydroplaning are subjective and therefore, they are of limited usefulness. My judgment was to go with the flow on this.

The g-Force is the third tire on the rear of my Spyder. The first tire was replaced at 11,800 miles because I was leaving on a trip and didn’t know what would be available on the road (no dealer list at the time). The second tire was replaced at 34,500 miles which means it went 22,700 miles. The second tire was a little overdue for replacement at the time. I should have replaced it at about 20,000 miles. I expect to get at least 50,000 to 60,000 miles from the g-Force tire. This represents a drastic reduction in the cost of keeping a tire on the rear wheel. Not only is the cost of the material a lot less over time, but there is a lot less labor cost.

Along with the new tire, I also replaced three wheel bearings and two seals. There are a couple of O-rings in there that did not require replacement. The bearings are “sealed bearings” which should have a long life. On the other hand, they come from China which doesn’t have a good reputation on bearings. Two of the bearings have a new part number for the 2009 models. The third one does not. Presumably, the new part number means an upgrade, or at least a different vendor. BRP shipped the 2008 part number to me and not the new one. I recommend that you look into this before you replace your wheel bearings.

I had the work done by my Harley technician.

 

[dltang]

I am now using an auto tire on the rear of my Spyder. The tire is a B. F. Goodrich g-Force Sport for which I paid $112 locally. It could be somewhat less on the internet. At first, I was going to use the same tire Deb and Lamont are using, but then decided to pay more to get a tire rated better for resistance to hydroplaning. Hydroplaning is my principal concern. We are all using a wide tire which is lightly loaded. Tire ratings for things like resistance to hydroplaning are subjective and therefore, they are of limited usefulness. My judgment was to go with the flow on this.

The g-Force is the third tire on the rear of my Spyder. The first tire was replaced at 11,800 miles because I was leaving on a trip and didn’t know what would be available on the road (no dealer list at the time). The second tire was replaced at 34,500 miles which means it went 22,700 miles. The second tire was a little overdue for replacement at the time. I should have replaced it at about 20,000 miles. I expect to get at least 50,000 to 60,000 miles from the g-Force tire. This represents a drastic reduction in the cost of keeping a tire on the rear wheel. Not only is the cost of the material a lot less over time, but there is a lot less labor cost.

Along with the new tire, I also replaced three wheel bearings and two seals. There are a couple of O-rings in there that did not require replacement. The bearings are “sealed bearings” which should have a long life. On the other hand, they come from China which doesn’t have a good reputation on bearings. Two of the bearings have a new part number for the 2009 models. The third one does not. Presumably, the new part number means an upgrade, or at least a different vendor. BRP shipped the 2008 part number to me and not the new one. I recommend that you look into this before you replace your wheel bearings.

I had the work done by my Harley technician.

I agree Spyder1026, My husband probably would have ordered a more expensive tire if I had not already ordered and paid for the ones we bought. His reasons were the same as you are indicating here, should last longer, less labor, hence less cost in the long run. Of course with the price I got on our tires, I think this time it is a wash. One other thing to note, the psi in the car tire is different than the OEM. I just bumped mine up to 45 psi today and it feels a lot better. Side wall says max of 51 psi. Dealership put in 28 as if it was an OEM tire. It feels much better now, less slippage.

 

[Spyder#353]

I just install a Yokohama. I hope it's better then the stock tire. It would light up to easy.:yikes:And that just makes me want to do more burn outs.:roflblack:

 

[dltang]

Still playing with the psi of my new tire. I realize the weight carrying capacity of tire cars is more than we will ever need on a spyder but as my husband pointed out psi is not alway in direct proportion of the weight of the vehicle. Example, many large tractors have less than 10psi for very heavy vehicles and my bicycle uses up to 80psi for the bicycle tires. So, I am trying to go more closely to the actual psi on the sidewall of the tire for a while. As I mentioned, my tire goes up to 51 max but I am only at 45 psi. I am hoping this will be the best of both worlds, not running too hot, less slippage and less hydroplaning.

 

[SethO]

i just put the g force on as well, I got 2300 miles on the stock tire, like I said in the other post about the tcs has been on the whole time so no donuts, no black marks it was at 28 psi warm, I was going to call the stock manufacter and see if I can send it to them to see if I got a **** tire.

also the back pulled off my two bros exhaust I bought on here and it had a 8 inch piece of exhaust packing, the same amount of steel wool and that is it, as you can see in the pic the force of the exhaust even with the restrictor plate out pushed the damn rivits thru the outside of the pipe WTF... cut the pipe and going to repack it with the right about of pack. this is my 7th bike and I have never repacked an exhaust 95 RF900, 01cbr929, 02r1, 00zx12rr, 98 yzf600 (put me in this damn chair, well the deer did but yeah) and 98 gsxr 600. How the hell can this have a exhaust that was so crap, when I took it apart it was clear that someone had also taken it apart but still this thing only goes 125ish and only has 109 hp.

 

[Star Cruiser]

Still playing with the psi of my new tire. I realize the weight carrying capacity of tire cars is more than we will ever need on a spyder but as my husband pointed out psi is not alway in direct proportion of the weight of the vehicle. Example, many large tractors have less than 10psi for very heavy vehicles and my bicycle uses up to 80psi for the bicycle tires. So, I am trying to go more closely to the actual psi on the sidewall of the tire for a while. As I mentioned, my tire goes up to 51 max but I am only at 45 psi. I am hoping this will be the best of both worlds, not running too hot, less slippage and less hydroplaning.

The psi on the sidewall of the tire is simply the max that the particular tire can safely withstand. Tire pressures for the vehicle should be as stated in the manual (26 - 28 psi) for safe handling. I don't have a car tire on mine, but I would still inflate to 28 on the rear and 15 in the front. I DID notice a huge difference when the tires are all inflated as per the manual after the winter. I was running at 13psi on the left, 16.5psi on the right and 26 in the rear. Cornering was terrible, especially on the right turns.

 

[dltang]

The psi on the sidewall of the tire is simply the max that the particular tire can safely withstand. Tire pressures for the vehicle should be as stated in the manual (26 - 28 psi) for safe handling. I don't have a car tire on mine, but I would still inflate to 28 on the rear and 15 in the front. I DID notice a huge difference when the tires are all inflated as per the manual after the winter. I was running at 13psi on the left, 16.5psi on the right and 26 in the rear. Cornering was terrible, especially on the right turns.

I am no tire expert by any means but I can tell you this, my new tire feels a lot better at 45 psi than it did at 28 psi. The spyder handles better, less slippage. I will run it this way for a while and see how it goes.

 

[Star Cruiser]

I am no tire expert by any means but I can tell you this, my new tire feels a lot better at 45 psi than it did at 28 psi. The spyder handles better, less slippage. I will run it this way for a while and see how it goes.

You can't beat experience and if you keep an eye on things, keep us updated. Check for centre wear on the tire at 45psi, if it isn't wearing more in the centre, you should be OK.

PS: My Goodyear's on the car have a Max 60 psi on the sidewall, but I still run at 32psi.

 

[NancysToy]

i just put the g force on as well, I got 2300 miles on the stock tire, like I said in the other post about the tcs has been on the whole time so no donuts, no black marks it was at 28 psi warm, I was going to call the stock manufacter and see if I can send it to them to see if I got a **** tire.

Just a note, tire pressures should always be checked cold. At 28 psi warm, you could be significantly underinflated.
-Scotty

 

[irish2themax]

Couple of questions...1) Did you get the summer tire or the all season? 2) what size did you get?

 

[Trumpybob]

Just a note, tire pressures should always be checked cold. At 28 psi warm, you could be significantly underinflated.
-Scotty

[/quote]

Scotty, I was told many years ago that a good guide to correct tyre pressure was to check pressure cold, then go for a ride, and check again when hot. If the pressure increase is about 4psi then pressure is OK. If more, then original pressure is too low, if less than 4psi the original pressure is too high. Your thoughts?
Bob

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty, I was told many years ago that a good guide to correct tyre pressure was to check pressure cold, then go for a ride, and check again when hot. If the pressure increase is about 4psi then pressure is OK. If more, then original pressure is too low, if less than 4psi the original pressure is too high. Your thoughts?
Bob

I have never really looked at the hot pressures to form an opinion. The only pressures I ever checked hot were racing slicks. Of course 1/4 pound on those makes a big difference. My first thought is that different road surfaces, different tires, and different ambient temperatures would make the hot pressures quite variable. It would be difficult to get repeatable results. One thing is for sure, tires which read the recommended pressure when hot, will always be low when cold. As you say, four pounds or more difference cold to hot is not unusual. That would make Seth's pressures about 24 cold, which could be affecting his traction and tire wear.
-Scotty

 

[mike3069]

The psi on the sidewall of the tire is simply the max that the particular tire can safely withstand. Tire pressures for the vehicle should be as stated in the manual (26 - 28 psi) for safe handling. I don't have a car tire on mine, but I would still inflate to 28 on the rear and 15 in the front. I DID notice a huge difference when the tires are all inflated as per the manual after the winter. I was running at 13psi on the left, 16.5psi on the right and 26 in the rear. Cornering was terrible, especially on the right turns.

Try bumping the fronts to 20 and THEN tell us how it corners!!