SE5 SHIFT SWITCH

[SPYD3R]

SYMPTOMS

What symptoms were you having exactly also good to know about how it went south over time.:thumbup:

SYMPTOMS were; hit the paddle-shifter and sometimes it didn't shift, up or down... progressively became more and more frequent over the course of a couple weeks/500 hundred or so miles...
dp

 

[SPYD3R]

UPDATE

HERE'S THE UPDATE ON THE SE5 SHIFT SWITCH....
well, i did find out that this is not like the old 'points' distributors of the older cars... but i also figure the 'fix' is even cheaper than i 1st estimated; not $3 - $5, but $0.30 - $0.50...

we're not exactly down to nano-technology, but you will see in the 3rd pix, that this is the component that fails us... it's about 3/8" x 3/8"x 1/8" in size, and inside are contact points that are similar to the old point systems, but this is a 'sealed' component which is most likely generated (imho) in an injection mold machine... if the red/blue/black wires were 'plug-in' types, this little sucker would cost far less to fix our issues than the $200+ we pay now... i have no idea if this little sucker is an OTC item, but if somebody is knowledgeable about these types of things, and can find out if it is, you just may save us all a bucket load of ca$h..
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

 

[billybovine]

What's in the switch (circuit board maybe?) The key would be knowing if it outputs a simple on, off to another device or communicates on the CAN-BUS directly.

 

[Magdave]

Can't read the writing but try a goggle search with and #'s on the switch.:thumbup: Solder and heat shrink makes good connections if the switch can be bought.

 

[coz]

nice work dan

have you traced the red and blue wires to the other end? just wondering if it is a plug in situation. opcorn:

 

[SPYD3R]

yes

have you traced the red and blue wires to the other end? just wondering if it is a plug in situation. opcorn:

yes Coz, the far end has a plug on the end.... i have no idea where or what it plugs into however...
dp

 

[billybovine]

So I did some research. 2008 to 12 GS/RS the up/down gear paddle switches are connected directly to the TCM and not to the CAN-BUS. So no circuit boards or com chips in the switch. Hence the bargain price of $175. I would think it could be highly likely there would be a OTC switch available as a replacement.

RT and ST models are wired differently and do send the up/down shift commands over the CAN-BUS. So it would be interesting to sacrifice the left handlebar switch assy on the altar of Spyderlovers knowledge. But at $450 it may take a while.

 

[uncletony]

micro switch

Hi folks

This is my first reply to a post, I am a retired electrician/electronics tech who worked for the NYTimes. I have encountered switches of that type before, it probably has a common wire and two contact points and since it has a mounting foot attached to its body it might be made specifically for the spyder assembly.I have not seen one exactly like the one in the photo, once the switch functions could be rung out then onne of similar size might be jury rigged to fit IMHO

 

[SPYD3R]

HONORED

Hi folks

This is my first reply to a post, I am a retired electrician/electronics tech who worked for the NYTimes. I have encountered switches of that type before, it probably has a common wire and two contact points and since it has a mounting foot attached to its body it might be made specifically for the spyder assembly.I have not seen one exactly like the one in the photo, once the switch functions could be rung out then onne of similar size might be jury rigged to fit IMHO

Uncle Tony;
i'm honor that you picked my post to post your first one... hope to see many more from you... we need good 'electrical/electronic' guys on this site....
and thx a bunch for this info... it will help others i'm sure...
dan p