NOT A GOOD DAY

[PW2013STL]

Changing out the stock brake pads for a sey of EBC HH pads. Started it last night and the rear pads went on tight. Not able to turn the wheel tight! Fronts no issues. Hoping that driving it slow would free up the rear, but that did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and tried again to push the piston back. I use a large C clamp for this, but same results as last night - it did not move. I even opened the bleed screw , but nothing. Thinking that the piston maybe cocked in its bore I made the mistake of pumping it out further.
Now it's out so I can not move it back to put in the stock pads:banghead:
I see there is two stock 5/32 holes ( not all the way through ) on the piston that are spaced .782 from each other and I am wondering if the piston has to be turned as it is pressed back like some cars have to:dontknow:

I will try calling a dealer tomorrow to try and get some answers

Not the results I was expecting when I started this simple :cus: project.

BTW I have 10,400 miles on the Spyder and the stock pads have a lot of material left. My goal was to find pads that stop as well if not better, but without the noise.

 

[OwnerOfHarriet]

our brakes have been squeaking since day one -- it now has 3000 miles on and we are taking it in as a warranty item -- brakes should not squeak -- bike is 1 month old tomorrow

 

[JohnnyK]

Not sure about the Spyder but that's how it works on cars with a parking brake that uses the same pads as the main brake. For my VW jetta I made a tool that turns the piston while applying pressure to push it back in.
John

 

[skeetshooter]

Brake pad

If it's like my 2008 was i had to take E brake cable and arm off then screw the shaft out until it stopped.I had plenty of room then to put new pads on.Then adjust your E brake and your ready to go.When you screw shaft out you can use c-clamp or pliers to spread pistons.

 

[BajaRon]

Changing out the stock brake pads for a sey of EBC HH pads. Started it last night and the rear pads went on tight. Not able to turn the wheel tight! Fronts no issues. Hoping that driving it slow would free up the rear, but that did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and tried again to push the piston back. I use a large C clamp for this, but same results as last night - it did not move. I even opened the bleed screw , but nothing. Thinking that the piston maybe cocked in its bore I made the mistake of pumping it out further.
Now it's out so I can not move it back to put in the stock pads:banghead:
I see there is two stock 5/32 holes ( not all the way through ) on the piston that are spaced .782 from each other and I am wondering if the piston has to be turned as it is pressed back like some cars have to:dontknow:

I will try calling a dealer tomorrow to try and get some answers

Not the results I was expecting when I started this simple :cus: project.

BTW I have 10,400 miles on the Spyder and the stock pads have a lot of material left. My goal was to find pads that stop as well if not better, but without the noise.

Email me!

[email protected]

 

[Chupaca]

Try this..!!

release the parking brake cable. You many time adjust the park brake as the pads wear down. When you put the new pads on you need to readjust the park brake or it will drag cause it is too tight...:thumbup:

 

[Jim&Teresa]

Changing out the stock brake pads for a sey of EBC HH pads. Started it last night and the rear pads went on tight. Not able to turn the wheel tight! Fronts no issues. Hoping that driving it slow would free up the rear, but that did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and tried again to push the piston back. I use a large C clamp for this, but same results as last night - it did not move. I even opened the bleed screw , but nothing. Thinking that the piston maybe cocked in its bore I made the mistake of pumping it out further.
Now it's out so I can not move it back to put in the stock pads:banghead:
I see there is two stock 5/32 holes ( not all the way through ) on the piston that are spaced .782 from each other and I am wondering if the piston has to be turned as it is pressed back like some cars have to:dontknow:

I will try calling a dealer tomorrow to try and get some answers

Not the results I was expecting when I started this simple :cus: project.

BTW I have 10,400 miles on the Spyder and the stock pads have a lot of material left. My goal was to find pads that stop as well if not better, but without the noise.

Sorry to hear that Les! :shocked: Wow, what an undertaking with the rear brake pad issue....good luck on the fix!:thumbup: Let us know the outcome!

 

[PW2013STL]

release the parking brake cable. You many time adjust the park brake as the pads wear down. When you put the new pads on you need to readjust the park brake or it will drag cause it is too tight...:thumbup:

I do have the cable off, but that did not help.

 

[PW2013STL]

If it's like my 2008 was i had to take E brake cable and arm off then screw the shaft out until it stopped.I had plenty of room then to put new pads on.Then adjust your E brake and your ready to go.When you screw shaft out you can use c-clamp or pliers to spread pistons.

Thanks! The service manual states "turn back the parking brake to retract the piston" nothing about taking the arm off. I will have to try that.

 

[cptjam]

Make sure the pistons will retract using the C clamp. Clean everything first. Make sure the parking brake is taken apart, shaft retracted. I had one that was stubborn, a bit of debris was cocking the piston a tiny bit. Like you, I extended the pistons as far as I could, then used a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Once clean, it went back together.

 

[MarkLawson]

Also, remove the cap to the master cylinder to allow brake fluid to go back into the reservoir. Stuff rags around it to catch any spillage. If the fluid level was at the top, there may not be enough room for the pistons to fully retract, hince the need to remove the cap.

 

[PW2013STL]

Also, remove the cap to the master cylinder to allow brake fluid to go back into the reservoir. Stuff rags around it to catch any spillage. If the fluid level was at the top, there may not be enough room for the pistons to fully retract, hince the need to remove the cap.

Tried that too.

I call the shop mechanic from my dealership this moning and He said I should not have an issue pussing it back, and was unaware of the need to turn the piston as you press in. He had no suggestions that I had not already tried . I will try removing the parking break arm and turn out the shaft tonight and see if that works. If not I may have to remove the caliber and bring it into a shop.

Wish me luck!!

 

[joebryanjr]

May I suggest to anyone doing their own service or repairs that they purchase the service manual for their model. The one for my 2011RSS was $23.50. I bought the one for my new 2014 RT for $28.50. They are digital downloads (pdf) and you can print the pages you need for each repair.
i got mine at www.brpmanuals.com. It also included a Flat Rate Manual so you can predict what dealer repairs would cost.

 

[Highwayman2013]

Mine were tight on the back. When I put it together so I left the stainless clips off. I did put the red disc brake goop on the backs. Yes. I had the pistons in and the park brake disconnected. Oh yeah they still squeak from time to time .

 

[rcdurango]

New brakes

When replacing the brakes I've found that sanding them and cleaning with brake cleaner takes away the squeak. Brakes have a glaze on them and sand paper lightly taking away the glaze worked for me.

 

[PW2013STL]

UPDATE

Today's effort did not go any better and nothing I tried worked. I then pulled the caliper and will bring it into a dealer to see if they can fix it :banghead:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Today's effort did not go any better and nothing I tried worked. I then pulled the caliper and will bring it into a dealer to see if they can fix it :banghead:

I see BajaRon said to email him, he makes brake pads, have you emailed him?

Cruzr Joe

 

[cptjam]

Ok

Today's effort did not go any better and nothing I tried worked. I then pulled the caliper and will bring it into a dealer to see if they can fix it :banghead:

Les,
rip into it! Since you are taking it in anyway, take everything apart! Since it is going to the dealer, have at it! I learn a lot by having at it. If I can't fix it, I at least learn things. Go for it!

joe

 

[PW2013STL]

I see BajaRon said to email him, he makes brake pads, have you emailed him?

Cruzr Joe

I did indeed as I purchased the pads from Ron.

 

[PW2013STL]

Les,
rip into it! Since you are taking it in anyway, take everything apart! Since it is going to the dealer, have at it! I learn a lot by having at it. If I can't fix it, I at least learn things. Go for it!

joe

Joe,

If it was not still under warranty I would! My thinking is if this is defective my dealer should cover it, but if I take it in pieces they may have an issue with that.