Still a small leak at pipe/Hindle joint. Trying Napa Muffler sealant...

[Greg H.]

.... to seal it up. When my Spyder was in the shop last week, they addressed the exhaust gaskets, and also noted there was a leak at the pipe/Hindle joint. They removed the Hindle, and determined that the end of the Hindle was a bit out of round, causing the leak. The mechanic rounded the pipe end, and reinstalled. Much more quiet! It was nice hearing the Hindle, and no leaks!

After the long ride Sunday, I was thinking there was a little more noise underneath. So, I checked, and sure enough; I could feel the exhaust leak at that joint - just a little. The mechanic mentioned that if what he did failed to completely make the seal, he would use a sealant. And, he mentioned, too, that when installing pipes on the Victory's, often he has to use sealant, as well.

In the next couple of days, my passenger peg extensions will be here. And, if I determine that I will also need to lower the Hindle, I will try the sealant then.

 

[ataDude]

Hey, Greg... I always use high-temp RTV to seal these type of joints. The "muffler stuff" sometimes drys hard as a rock and makes the pipes difficult to get back apart when needed.

Use the highest temp RTV you can find... I've found various temp ranges at the typical auto supply stores...typically, about 700* is as high as I've seen.

In any event, put about a 1/8" bead around the entire perimeter (I usually put it inside the female end... less messy) and reinstall the pipe. Wipe off any visible excess with alcohol or it will turn light gray after heat is applied.

Allow it to set overnight... if you don't, you'll blow the RTV out right off the bat.
.

.... to seal it up. When my Spyder was in the shop last week, they addressed the exhaust gaskets, and also noted there was a leak at the pipe/Hindle joint. They removed the Hindle, and determined that the end of the Hindle was a bit out of round, causing the leak. The mechanic rounded the pipe end, and reinstalled. Much more quiet! It was nice hearing the Hindle, and no leaks!

After the long ride Sunday, I was thinking there was a little more noise underneath. So, I checked, and sure enough; I could feel the exhaust leak at that joint - just a little. The mechanic mentioned that if what he did failed to completely make the seal, he would use a sealant. And, he mentioned, too, that when installing pipes on the Victory's, often he has to use sealant, as well.

In the next couple of days, my passenger peg extensions will be here. And, if I determine that I will also need to lower the Hindle, I will try the sealant then.

 

[bone crusher]

Greg,

Sorry to hear that...the hindle is supposed to fit tight and not need a sealant...odd...hope you get it fixed!

 

[Greg H.]

Hey, Greg... I always use high-temp RTV to seal these type of joints. The "muffler stuff" sometimes drys hard as a rock and makes the pipes difficult to get back apart when needed.

Use the highest temp RTV you can find... I've found various temp ranges at the typical auto supply stores...typically, about 700* is as high as I've seen.

In any event, put about a 1/8" bead around the entire perimeter (I usually put it inside the female end... less messy) and reinstall the pipe. Wipe off any visible excess with alcohol or it will turn light gray after heat is applied.

Allow it to set overnight... if you don't, you'll blow the RTV out right off the bat.
.

Great tip! Much appreciated!
I'll check AutoZone to see if they have the sealant that goes to 700*. The package I got from NAPA doesn't indicate temperature limits. But, it specifies muffler/pipe sealing.
Have you experienced any leaks following an application of the 700* sealant?

Greg,

Sorry to hear that...the hindle is supposed to fit tight and not need a sealant...odd...hope you get it fixed!

Apparently, it isn't uncommon. Like I said, the tech at my dealer says they have to add sealant quite often when they install pipes on their Victory's.

 

[ataDude]

... Have you experienced any leaks following an application of the 700* sealant?

Only when I didn't let it cure overnight... it will turn it to liquid and blow it right out if you don't let it cure. :shocked:

BTW, the exhausts will greatly exceed the theoretical 700* "limit". I have even burned off 1200* ceramic coating before. Finally found a 1500* silicone coating that stays.

 

[Greg H.]

Only when I didn't let it cure overnight... it will turn it to liquid and blow it right out if you don't let it cure. :shocked:

BTW, the exhausts will greatly exceed the theoretical 700* "limit". I have even burned off 1200* ceramic coating before. Finally found a 1500* silicone coating that stays.

I just got back to the office with a tube of Permatex Copper RTV Gasket Maker rated at 700*. And, just to be sure, I picked up a can of brake/parts cleaner to clean the joint of both pipes.