Key Copying Instructions

[billybovine]

cruzr, did you ever get the master key to come up as MASTER on the display? You were using one of the original keys to start the process, right? Did you try the kill switch bit that Silent Sam mentioned?

If you never got Master to come up then either the Master key has been changed for the 2014, or you got hold of a counterfeit master key.

What we have not confirmed, as far as recall from these discussions, is that a clone JMA, or Aprilla, key will actually work to start the key programming process. We need someone who has both a cloned JMA key, never programmed by the Spyder, and a Master key to check out the process.

Cruzr could you try that master key in a 2013 or earlier to see if you get the master key message there?

I think a cloned key would start the reprogramming process, but it would be very nice to confirmed that for sure.

 

[Bob Denman]

Some of you are confused about this cloning thing and when it can or should be done. Here are my opinions.

Scenario 1.
You buy a brand new unused Spyder and it will be delivered with 2 keys. You decide you would like a third or fourth key. This is a good reason to take one of the keys and get one or more clones of it made. The reason it's cheaper and for most people it is easier. You do not need to get the dealer involved at all.

Scenario 2.
You buy a used Spyder and get only one key. This would be a case where I would get new BRP key(s) made and programed. The reasons are. If you lose your only key it will cost you $800.00 or more to get up and running. There is at least one other key, maybe more out there that can be used to start your Spyder. The the BRP keys that are not used during the reprogramming process will no longer work. If I was really paranoid I would have two new BRP keys made and have the dealer run the programming process twice and not use the original key the second time. Because there may exist clones of your original key and they will be disabled with your original key.

Scenario 3.
I lose a key (BRP or Clone) and I am not sure if this missing key could be used to to use or steal my Spyder. I would get a new BRP Key made and programed. If it was a BRP key lost any clones of that key will be disabled also. If it was a clone that was lost. Do not reprogram with the original BRP key that that clone was made from.

Now THIS makes very good sense! :thumbup:
Thanks! :clap:

 

[Lycosa]

Spyder keys

I really do not like the design of the current ignition keys for the Spyder. With no keyring hole I have a hard time on occasion, in remembering to pull the bloddy thing out of the ignition when I park it. Its a 45+ year habit of having my key on a ring that I keep with me. I solved this problem by going by the local locksmith and having a standard $7.50 Ilco key cut to match the original keys. All you need to do to start the bike is turn it on, let it boot up and then lay the head of the original key next to the Ilco and push the starter. Bingo. As long as the Ilco key is not turned off, the bike will restart if its killed at a red light or the kill switch is accidentally hit. Now I wont walk away with the damn key left in the ignition any more.:sour:

 

[Bob Denman]

The one constant in life; is change!
Try it; you might like it!:thumbup:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

I really do not like the design of the current ignition keys for the Spyder. With no keyring hole I have a hard time on occasion, in remembering to pull the bloddy thing out of the ignition when I park it. Its a 45+ year habit of having my key on a ring that I keep with me. I solved this problem by going by the local locksmith and having a standard $7.50 Ilco key cut to match the original keys. All you need to do to start the bike is turn it on, let it boot up and then lay the head of the original key next to the Ilco and push the starter. Bingo. As long as the Ilco key is not turned off, the bike will restart if its killed at a red light or the kill switch is accidentally hit. Now I wont walk away with the damn key left in the ignition any more.:sour:

Tried that, it don't work, you still gett the VSS key screen and no start.

Cruzr Joe

 

[Bob Denman]

Joe,
Hold the chipped key closer to the ignition switch.
It'll work... :thumbup:

 

[Lycosa]

I touch the heads of both keys together before hitting the starter. Havent had it fail yet.:spyder:

 

[Bob Denman]

Yup! :agree: That's how you do it! :thumbup:

 

[Cruzr Joe]

Yup! :agree: That's how you do it! :thumbup:

OK i will try it again, tonight

Cruzr Joe

 

[SNOOPY]

I hope I never need another key because this thread is totally confusing to me, really.


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