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2012 rts-se5 help i need to pick a battery?

bh164

New member
I have to replace my battery!!! I have decided not to go with the lith ion as it's not recommended. Do i go with an agm or a gel battery? I usually love to park it and let the ipod play in radio mode with the key off,(oversized jukebox) however the last few times it gave me a very hard time starting so the battery isn't holding a charge like when it was new. I love the spyder so cost for the battery isnt a concern i simply want a powerful battery .i am hoping someone can lead me to it. ps i plug the bike in daily to the recharger i understand the cca rating however i dont understand the ah rating thanks for you help my brethern spyder owners
 
The Spyder battery is AGM. Be aware that the Spyder system was not designed to play the audio for extended periods without the engine running. Doing so will deplete any battery. In time the excessive discharging will shorten the battery life. I'd recommend putting your Spyder on a battery maintainer when not in use, if you aren't already. That should maximize your battery longevity under the circumstances. If you do replace the battery, be sure to have it properly prepared before charging (fill and let sit overnight to 24 hours to allow glass mat to absorb the electrolyte, then fully charge it before using it to start the Spyder or run the audio system. Failure to do so can render the battery unable to charge to full capacity, and can shorten its life.
 
Battery replacement

Just ordered a new Yuasa #YUAM7250H / YTX24HL from Amazon for $97.77 w/ free shpg. for my 2010 RT. It's an exact OEM replacement for the stock battery and is sealed and charged from the factory. The stock battery seemed fine but was acting like it was losing some strength. Being disabled and not able to walk I take no chances w/ batteries on my bikes. Getting 4 to 5 yrs. out of a battery is about norm and when they start acting weak, taking longer to charge and not keeping that charge as long as when new it's time to replace. I stayed with the Yuasa battery because it's reasonably priced and I'd had no problems with it.

My 2 cents worth,
Steve
 
These two thoughts have come up before in other battery related threads. I just thought that with so many newcomers on board it may be worthwhile to re-vist them.

1. If possible when buying a replacement battery see if you can get the vendor to put the electrolyte into the battery and let it soak into the plates overnight before installing and trickle charging. This will help extend the battery life. Filling and then installing right away doesn't give the plates time to fully absorb the electrolyte.

2. Leaving the key in the ignition while the bike is garaged is a no-no. The chip in the key will continue to send signals to the machine's computer and that will deplete the battery. Best to take out the key and store it more than 20 feet away from the Spyder.
 
These two thoughts have come up before in other battery related threads. I just thought that with so many newcomers on board it may be worthwhile to re-vist them.

1. If possible when buying a replacement battery see if you can get the vendor to put the electrolyte into the battery and let it soak into the plates overnight before installing and trickle charging. This will help extend the battery life. Filling and then installing right away doesn't give the plates time to fully absorb the electrolyte.

2. Leaving the key in the ignition while the bike is garaged is a no-no. The chip in the key will continue to send signals to the machine's computer and that will deplete the battery. Best to take out the key and store it more than 20 feet away from the Spyder.

I agree with statement #1
Statement #2, not so much. In the 4years I've owned my '10 RTS, the key has not been out of the switch for more than 30 days total time in the 4 years and never had any battery problems.
Just my experience.
 
:agree: I had my :spyder2: off the tender with the key in the ignition for over a month. When I hooked up the tender it immediately started flashing green, indicating an almost full charge.
 
These two thoughts have come up before in other battery related threads. I just thought that with so many newcomers on board it may be worthwhile to re-vist them.

1. If possible when buying a replacement battery see if you can get the vendor to put the electrolyte into the battery and let it soak into the plates overnight before installing and trickle charging. This will help extend the battery life. Filling and then installing right away doesn't give the plates time to fully absorb the electrolyte.
If you buy a battery online you will have to add the electrolyte. Batteries are shipped without the electrolyte in them. The soaking is a good idea.

2. Leaving the key in the ignition while the bike is garaged is a no-no. The chip in the key will continue to send signals to the machine's computer and that will deplete the battery. Best to take out the key and store it more than 20 feet away from the Spyder.
Where did you come up with that one? The only time the key transmits a code is when the key is turned on, and then probably only long enough for the DESS to determine an authorized key is in the ignition. The coil on the ignition creates a magnetic field which generates enough current in the key to transmit its code. No ignition power, no magnetic field, thus no transmission from the key.

And 20 feet? That's only about 19' 10" farther than needed. The key has to be within about 1" of the ignition switch to allow the bike to start with a dumb key.
 
WasWinger;778744 Where did you come up with that one? The only time the key transmits a code is when the key is turned on said:
Personal experience with identical RT's in the same garage. Hers always with key removed....his always left in. Hers still has the same battery from Oct. 2011... His is on it's 3rd in same period.

Plus two dealers who advise that leaving keys in the machines in showroom or shop contributes to battery drain.

you are right that a few inches will suffice...I was just being sure.
 
I have to replace my battery!!! I have decided not to go with the lith ion as it's not recommended. Do i go with an agm or a gel battery? I usually love to park it and let the ipod play in radio mode with the key off,(oversized jukebox) however the last few times it gave me a very hard time starting so the battery isn't holding a charge like when it was new. I love the spyder so cost for the battery isnt a concern i simply want a powerful battery .i am hoping someone can lead me to it. ps i plug the bike in daily to the recharger i understand the cca rating however i dont understand the ah rating thanks for you help my brethern spyder owners

If really like you really like your radio on, If I may suggest a separate battery for your radio only. In this case you will not get your starting battery drained.
 
If you buy a battery online you will have to add the electrolyte. Batteries are shipped without the electrolyte in them. The soaking is a good idea.


Where did you come up with that one? The only time the key transmits a code is when the key is turned on, and then probably only long enough for the DESS to determine an authorized key is in the ignition. The coil on the ignition creates a magnetic field which generates enough current in the key to transmit its code. No ignition power, no magnetic field, thus no transmission from the key.

And 20 feet? That's only about 19' 10" farther than needed. The key has to be within about 1" of the ignition switch to allow the bike to start with a dumb key.

If you look up on Amazon at that particular battery you'll find it's a sealed battery. Read the description. I might be wrong but sealed batteries are the only kind I put on my bikes. I've had too many of the fill it yourself type freeze up and bust when I forgot to take them out & put them in the house in the winter months.

Steve
 
Plus two dealers who advise that leaving keys in the machines in showroom or shop contributes to battery drain.
I suspect that's because customers messing around with the machines tend to leave the key on, or just simply running down the battery by having the key on to watch Nanny get started!

I haven't finished looking yet, but the only things I see so far on the wiring diagram for the 2013 RT that are powered up when the key is off are the hazard lights, brake lights, accessory plug if fuse is in F7, and the radio. Everything else, including the DESS, get power only when the key is on.

I think there's something else involved in causing the power drain on your bike other than the key in the ignition.

The ECM stays powered up to 40 minutes after the key is turned off to hold the throttle plates closed. You can hear a high pitch whistle when that's the case.
 
If you look up on Amazon at that particular battery you'll find it's a sealed battery. Read the description. I might be wrong but sealed batteries are the only kind I put on my bikes. I've had too many of the fill it yourself type freeze up and bust when I forgot to take them out & put them in the house in the winter months.
I bought a Yuasa battery online for my Goldwing a couple years ago. It was a sealed battery, but not until I added the acid, put in the plugs, and put on the sealing tape. As I recall, once I went through that procedure it was sealed and could not be, or was not to be, opened again. The acid was not in the battery when I received it.
 
All of the AGM type batteries I have ordered came ready to use. No liquid to pour as there is none. The OEM battery is not lead acid, its AGM type and you should replace it with same. There are safety concerns using the liquid filled type in enclosed spaces where they are not easy to inspect regularly. IE leaks are not detected until its much too late. Yuasa makes both types.
 
Use an AGM battery as JC said. A wet lead-acid battery can't be laid on its side, and a sealed gel cell installed in a vehicle meant for something else can explode. The AGM batteries come in two versions...factory filled and fill-before-charging (dry-charge). Use the factory filled if you can. As Joe said the other needs to be filled (and sealed) then let sit overnight before charging to let the mats absorb the acid. BRP used the shop filled type initially, but many dealers didn't let them sit or didn't fully charge them before use, so BRP switched to the factory filled version. The BRP battery is a Yuasa.
 
Removing battery

I know it's on here somewhere, but I can't find it. We have a 2010 SM5 RT that needs a new battery. How do we get the old one out?
 
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