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Tri-axis install / Air box removal tip

3 Wheel Addict

New member
Tore my spyder down this weekend to get my Tri-axis bars installed. With the bike apart I think I discovered exactly how to get the air box out in one piece (13 model). Looks like if you remove the dash pod it would be easy to get it out. Turns out that these bikes are assembled in sub-sections and it makes it easy to get whole assemblies off completely intact. The complete dash pod is only held on with 4 screws and 3 wiring connectors and the headlight adjustment cables. Oh, the Tri-axis bars are really worth the money so if your on the fence go for it you will like them!!
 

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3 Wheel,

Did you need to remove the front assembly to install the handle bars? I have a set to install on my 14 when I pick it up. I asked the dealer how much $ to install as he assembles my new :f_spider: And was quoted $350.00 so I will be doing it.
Any tips?
 
Wow

3 Wheel,

Did you need to remove the front assembly to install the handle bars? I have a set to install on my 14 when I pick it up. I asked the dealer how much $ to install as he assembles my new :f_spider: And was quoted $350.00 so I will be doing it.
Any tips?


My dealer is not charging any extra to install the Tri Axis handle bars while doing the bike assembly.
He will charge full install post assembly which is understandable.
I would ask him again.
 
Mine charged me $220 for the install. :f_spider: I think it was 3.5 hours labor. :coffee: Tom :trike:
 
3 Wheel,

Did you need to remove the front assembly to install the handle bars? I have a set to install on my 14 when I pick it up. I asked the dealer how much $ to install as he assembles my new :f_spider: And was quoted $350.00 so I will be doing it.
Any tips?

Yes you have to remove that whole top module. It really is not hat hard though. I think the flat rate for the install of the bars is 3.5 hrs. It only took me about 5 hours and I don't have a service manual so I would have to check online sometimes to find out exactly what had to come off. One you get into it the spyder is really not hard to work on at all. They have done a good job of making everything come off in sections and only a few bolts and some wiring connectors have to be undone.
The front trunk section.... 6 bolts, and 6 or 8 (depending on options) wiring connectors, 1 cable for compartment is all for that.
Glove box section .... 4 bolts, 1 wiring connector, 1 cable for compartment lock.
Dash/headlight section... 4 bolts, 2 headlight adjustment cables, 3 electrical connectors.
Of course you have to remove all the exterior panels first and that is the hard part.
The only thing I found to be tricky was the bezel around the key switch. The instructions that come with the bars show you just turning the bezel counterclockwise and removing it. That is NOT the case! The bezel has locking tabs that are not easy to release but it can be done, you have to lift those tabs slightly and then turn the bezel to get it off.
 
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Hi all,
I'm glad I found this web site.
I should be taking delivery of my new '14 RT-S this week.
When I purchased it, I negotiated included install of the Tri Axis Handlebars.
One dealer hear said you have to reroute the wiring for the this which is the hardest part. I didn't go with that dealer but a different one. But the Spyder tech said it can take up to 5.0 hours. Plus they charged $110 per hour.

I would like to know what Mods/aftermarket mounts can work with these Tri Axis Handlebars?
I want to use my smartphone which has GPS built in instead of the expensive BRP option with a Garmin. And maybe add a can holder.
 
Yes you have to remove that whole top module. It really is not hat hard though. I think the flat rate for the install of the bars is 3.5 hrs. It only took me about 5 hours and I don't have a service manual so I would have to check online sometimes to find out exactly what had to come off. One you get into it the spyder is really not hard to work on at all. They have done a good job of making everything come off in sections and only a few bolts and some wiring connectors have to be undone.
The front trunk section.... 6 bolts, and 6 or 8 (depending on options) wiring connectors, 1 cable for compartment is all for that.
Glove box section .... 4 bolts, 1 wiring connector, 1 cable for compartment lock.
Dash/headlight section... 4 bolts, 2 headlight adjustment cables, 3 electrical connectors.
Of course you have to remove all the exterior panels first and that is the hard part.
The only thing I found to be tricky was the bezel around the key switch. The instructions that come with the bars show you just turning the bezel counterclockwise and removing it. That is NOT the case! The bezel has locking tabs that are not easy to release but it can be done, you have to lift those tabs slightly and then turn the bezel to get it off.

Thanks for the tips!
 
Hi all,
I'm glad I found this web site.
I should be taking delivery of my new '14 RT-S this week.
When I purchased it, I negotiated included install of the Tri Axis Handlebars.
One dealer hear said you have to reroute the wiring for the this which is the hardest part. I didn't go with that dealer but a different one. But the Spyder tech said it can take up to 5.0 hours. Plus they charged $110 per hour.

I would like to know what Mods/aftermarket mounts can work with these Tri Axis Handlebars?
I want to use my smartphone which has GPS built in instead of the expensive BRP option with a Garmin. And maybe add a can holder.

You will find very little in the way of "mounts" that fit the bars on a spyder RT because of the weirdly shaped bars. Most use a RAM mount and put things on the dash. I bought a RAM mount and moved my GPS there and it's way easier to see than down on the bars. Do a search for RAM mounts and you should come up with several ideas.........
 
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