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Air box removal?

Must be more to this than just a filter. Care to share?

Here is the prototype installed on Doc Riverside's RT, we also tested on a ST for fit.

I really need to thank Doc Riverside more often for all his help over the last few months as we tested prototypes and worked out details. And thanks for Dan for his testing with the GS/RS.

air-filter-01.jpg

The production version will be anodized.

Thanks
JT
 
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Here is the prototype installed on Doc Riverside's RT, we also tested on a ST for fit.

I really need to thank Doc Riverside more often for all his help over the last few months as we tested prototypes and worked out details. And thanks for Dan for his testing with the GS/RS.

View attachment 83567

The production version will be anodized.

Thanks
JT

Thanks JT. You assembled a good team.

Availabil sometime in March?
 
If you remove air filter (un-clip from airbox), pull air filter housing to the right, releasing the 2 tabs on left (that hold airfilter cover on).
you can put a small size 2 x 4 to separate the air filter cover from the main body of airbox about 4".
You then can reach in between opening on right side & change #1 sparkplug.
You don't have to remove whole airbox, because that involves taking side sub frame, etc off.
Not easy, but doeable.
Jim

Thanks again for this info, managed to get that silly front plug with your sugestions, except I used bungy cords to hold the two pieces apart, now I have to wait for new wires to get here to see how fun they will be.:ohyea:
 
Here is the prototype installed on Doc Riverside's RT, we also tested on a ST for fit.

I really need to thank Doc Riverside more often for all his help over the last few months as we tested prototypes and worked out details. And thanks for Dan for his testing with the GS/RS.

View attachment 83567

The production version will be anodized.

Thanks
JT


How is this different from the Kewl Metal airbox conversion?
 
How is this different from the Kewl Metal airbox conversion?

It uses a larger filter with 30+ cross matches so easy to find come replacement time. The crankcase vent is done in a manner that won't allow any oil to get on the filter and evenly divide any return oil to each cylinder. The mounting holes exactly match the metric bolt pattern of the throttle body for a perfect fit. It's built in 3 pieces to minimize waste of material. It has the Doc Riverside and WackyDan seal of approval :).

JT
 
jthornton,

What is the price? I went to the link and couldn't find one

Jerry

I have not set the price yet, I'm still working with the anodizer on what my cost will be for that. As soon as I get firm pricing I'll post the price. I try very hard to price my products very competitive and either make them myself or they are made in Missouri. I should know next week the delivery on the first batch and the price.

JT
 
I,m figuring 3 Years till the Iridiums my 2012 RT came stock with need replacing.
Even if you can reach the front plug would not you need to remove the air box to run the New wire for it??
We all know you should do new wires with plugs?

PS: That's why I like the simply GS and ST is similar if they have solved the heat problem on the 2014 ST?
 
New wires.

Well got the front spark plug out, and new plug wires arrived yesterday hope to attempt to replace the wires tonight, still haven't gotten the air box out, hopefully I can finish without doing so, but it is now a priority mod to replace that monster. I am just amazed at the stupidity of building a state of the art $30000 dollar touring machine, and then not making sure the average person can maintain the basics, and to top it off using cheap parts that only last 9 to 12 thousand miles before having to replace them.:banghead::hun: ,unless they make major changes in the ease of maintenance of these bikes this will be my only spyder, I love the bike but servicing them is ridiculous. O and how did I decide that plugs needed changing? the bike through the P0174 code and my dealer suggested changing the plugs before I brought it in, because according to him today's crappy gas fowls the plugs, now I know why he suggested I change the plugs geese thanks LOL.

Sorry about the rant just had to get it off my chest, Thanks for all the great help on here and I promise not to do any thing rash LOL
 
Well got the front spark plug out, and new plug wires arrived yesterday hope to attempt to replace the wires tonight, still haven't gotten the air box out, hopefully I can finish without doing so, but it is now a priority mod to replace that monster. I am just amazed at the stupidity of building a state of the art $30000 dollar touring machine, and then not making sure the average person can maintain the basics, and to top it off using cheap parts that only last 9 to 12 thousand miles before having to replace them.:banghead::hun: ,unless they make major changes in the ease of maintenance of these bikes this will be my only spyder, I love the bike but servicing them is ridiculous. O and how did I decide that plugs needed changing? the bike through the P0174 code and my dealer suggested changing the plugs before I brought it in, because according to him today's crappy gas fowls the plugs, now I know why he suggested I change the plugs geese thanks LOL.

Sorry about the rant just had to get it off my chest, Thanks for all the great help on here and I promise not to do any thing rash LOL

I went through the same thing with my 2013 RTS SE5 and the P0174 code. I also replaced my plugs and wires with BajaRon's set. I had previously removed the airbox and replaced it with the Kewl Metal air filter kit. I did not get rid of the code until I removed the fuel canister and isolated the purge valve. I rerouted the gas vent to the back of the Spyder. Look for the threads on performing a canisterectomy. That solved the P0174 code issue. The problem was the purge valve.
 
I went through the same thing with my 2013 RTS SE5 and the P0174 code. I also replaced my plugs and wires with BajaRon's set. I had previously removed the airbox and replaced it with the Kewl Metal air filter kit. I did not get rid of the code until I removed the fuel canister and isolated the purge valve. I rerouted the gas vent to the back of the Spyder. Look for the threads on performing a canisterectomy. That solved the P0174 code issue. The problem was the purge valve.
:agree: Purge valve failure or a vacuum leak is far more likely to cause a lean cylinder condition. Other possibilities would be a valve problem or an O2 sensor issue. There are additional possibilities. A fouled plug should not cause a lean cylinder on a vehicle with individual O2 sensors...just the opposite, so I don't understand the tech's comments. Sounds like he was shooting from the hip (and didn't want to bother taking three hours [flat rate] to change the plugs on an RT).
 
I went through the same thing with my 2013 RTS SE5 and the P0174 code. I also replaced my plugs and wires with BajaRon's set. I had previously removed the airbox and replaced it with the Kewl Metal air filter kit. I did not get rid of the code until I removed the fuel canister and isolated the purge valve. I rerouted the gas vent to the back of the Spyder. Look for the threads on performing a canisterectomy. That solved the P0174 code issue. The problem was the purge valve.

Thanks for the info I was afraid of that the first time I got this code they said the throttle stop had to be reset that worked for a year or little better, If the plugs dont fix it it is going back to dealer, and he better fix it while its under waranty is all I have to say about that :gaah:
 
been a while

When I replaced the plugs and wires, was able to leave air box alone and reach around the front of the motor to get the plug. Also, rerouted the wire around the front of motor to the plug on the right side:thumbup:.
 
replacement filter

Add me to your list for the replacement filter. Working around that air box is ridiculous. Thanks for spending the time designing and manufacturing it. I work with a good anodizer up in Minnesota if you would like a quote from there I can arrange it. Shipping is the only drawback. Mike
 
Add me to your list for the replacement filter. Working around that air box is ridiculous. Thanks for spending the time designing and manufacturing it. I work with a good anodizer up in Minnesota if you would like a quote from there I can arrange it. Shipping is the only drawback. Mike

Hi Mike,

If you want to PM me your email that will make it easier to contact you when the first batch comes back from the anodizer. I have a company in Missouri that will anodize the parts for me. Thanks for the offer. I actually have an anodizing line part way constructed but to speed up the first few batches I'm going to farm that out.

The air filter housings are being made at my friends machine shop as we speak. He has a much bigger machine shop than me so I get him to make many things for me.

JT
 
So disapointed in my dealer.

Thanks for the info I was afraid of that the first time I got this code they said the throttle stop had to be reset that worked for a year or little better, If the plugs dont fix it it is going back to dealer, and he better fix it while its under waranty is all I have to say about that :gaah:

Up date to spark plug saga, the plugs not only didnt fix code but after putting everything back together I fired up the bike and O my god someone droped marbles or something down my intake, was my first horified thought, the bike ran much rougher and sounded like it was hamering its pistons to death :yikes:, so I quickly shut it down and called the dealer, he was like wtf did you do put in the wrong plugs are they too long? so I tell him the plug numbers and he say's on man those are wrong for your bike :banghead: anyway I trailerd it to them and three hours later its done, they said plug number DCPR8EIX was wrong for these bikes and messed up the computers throwing all kind of codes, so they had to reset everything and replace the plugs, its my fault for useing wrong parts and that will be $176.00 we gave you a brake and only charged 1 hr labor plus plugs, at this point I am about to explode, I asked them what about the lean code and fouled plug that started this mess and they where like its a motorcycle we have them foul just moving them around the shop, so i asked what if the plug fouls out in the midle of nowhere 2 to 3 hundred miles or more from a dealer and he just said I am **** out of luck.
So whats the deal does just changeing plugs mess up the computers on these bikes are these the wrong plugs or is my dealer just screwing me?:chat::dontknow:
 
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