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Question about DPS code

B

Bmac

New member
I have a 2010 rt-ac I am getting the orange screen DPS code. I called dealer and the DPS unit has been taken care of as far as recall goes. Is there any fuse or connecter I should check before takeing it to the dealer. I have about 4000 miles on the Spyder.

THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
 
Don't know..!!

which..but make it a habit to wiggle all the feuses and relays from time to time to make sure they have good contact. Would have to see fuse positions in the RT but you should have it in your manual....:thumbup:
 
Spyder Codes

Bmac said:
I have a 2010 rt-ac I am getting the orange screen DPS code. I called dealer and the DPS unit has been taken care of as far as recall goes. Is there any fuse or connecter I should check before takeing it to the dealer. I have about 4000 miles on the Spyder.

THANKS FOR ANY INFO.
Click to expand...

Per Rogers handy guide. It says to check battery connections. Loose or corroded?
 
When my 2011 did that repeatedly it ended up needing a new DPS. Sensor problems can also initiate it. A low battery or bad battery or front or rear frame ground connection can, too...and is the first place to look. The DPS takes the most amperage of anything but the starter. Without the actual fault codes (if any), it is hard to troubleshoot from afar. Your dealer may be able to shed light on the cause and the cure.
 
Last edited:
Battery locations

NancysToy said:
When my 2011 did that repeatedly it ended up needing a new DPS. Sensor problems can also initiate it. A low battery or bad battery or front or rear frame ground connection can, too...and is the first place to look. The DPS takes the most amperage of anything but the starter. Without the actual fault codes (if any), it is hard to troubleshoot from afar. Your dealer may be able to shed light on the cause and the cure.
Click to expand...
OK i see its the battery so were do you charge the battery? im reading that there is two battery's, is there a single charging point?
 
I don't know about any Spyder having dual batteries. I've heard the RTs battery is under the seat, might want to check if you can reach the terminals there. May just be the terminal posts there, which you can use. Be sure to connect pos/neg correctly.

Sorry I don't know RTs well, just trying to help since you're posting early. :dontknow:
 
DPS stands for several things on different cars, what is it on a Spyder?

Most common is a Differential Pressure Sensor which wouldn't make sense on a Spyder?
 
Dual bats

SNOOPY said:
I don't know about any Spyder having dual batteries. I've heard the RTs battery is under the seat, might want to check if you can reach the terminals there. May just be the terminal posts there, which you can use. Be sure to connect pos/neg correctly.

Sorry I don't know RTs well, just trying to help since you're posting early. :dontknow:
Click to expand...

Sorry I was on youtube looking at Lam who fitted a secound bat, Yes spyder has one main bat...thanks
 
Dynamic Power Steering

Also, if your battery is original it's time for a change. These things are very sensitive to battery voltage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cambello said:
OK i see its the battery so were do you charge the battery? im reading that there is two battery's, is there a single charging point?
Click to expand...
There is a single battery in OEM Spyders. Depending on the year, it is located under the rear of the seat or behind the front trunk. There are jump start terminals near the battery location that can be used to attach a motorcycle battery maintainer like a Battery Tender. Do not use a heavy duty charger or conventional trickle charger. The maintainer should state that it is suitable for use with AGM batteries. You can also charge via the rear trunk outlet on an RT with a cigarette adapter for your charger (easier prior to 2013), or attach a charging pigtail directly to the battery terminals if you remove some body panels.
 
DrewNJ said:
Dynamic Power Steering

Also, if your battery is original it's time for a change. These things are very sensitive to battery voltage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Thanks, I did figure it had to do w steering at least. Lol
 
Is this related

NancysToy said:
There is a single battery in OEM Spyders. Depending on the year, it is located under the rear of the seat or behind the front trunk. There are jump start terminals near the battery location that can be used to attach a motorcycle battery maintainer like a Battery Tender. Do not use a heavy duty charger or conventional trickle charger. The maintainer should state that it is suitable for use with AGM batteries. You can also charge via the rear trunk outlet on an RT with a cigarette adapter for your charger (easier prior to 2013), or attach a charging pigtail directly to the battery terminals if you remove some body panels.
Click to expand...
Seems the battery can do all sorts of funny things but is this related; I've noticed the back lights flickering even when the key is taken out:( Why would it do that??? and the brake lights are flickering as well, sounds like the Emu is playing up,,,,, but ive been told that even if a bulb is out that to can send these units into a frenzy.
 
Cambello said:
Seems the battery can do all sorts of funny things but is this related; I've noticed the back lights flickering even when the key is taken out:( Why would it do that??? and the brake lights are flickering as well, sounds like the Emu is playing up,,,,, but ive been told that even if a bulb is out that to can send these units into a frenzy.
Click to expand...
The brake lights could flicker with the key out, due to a short circuit, water in a connector, or more likely a brake switch that is partly engaged (probably due to the rubber stopper for the pedal being too thick or the switch being out of adjustment. The backup lights should not function when the switch is off. Are you sure it isn't just a reflection? Those reflector lenses can give that appearance sometimes.
 
Flickering light

NancysToy said:
The brake lights could flicker with the key out, due to a short circuit, water in a connector, or more likely a brake switch that is partly engaged (probably due to the rubber stopper for the pedal being too thick or the switch being out of adjustment. The backup lights should not function when the switch is off. Are you sure it isn't just a reflection? Those reflector lenses can give that appearance sometimes.
Click to expand...
No definitely wasn't a reflection, the outer ring are on as normal, but so are the inner brakelights . But when the key is pulled the lights flicker a bit like a short circuit. I put the battery on charge and the light on the charger displayed fully charged straight away, this would indicate that the battery is ok, it is very damp at the moment around these parts it might just be that this is causing the problems.
 
Cambello said:
No definitely wasn't a reflection, the outer ring are on as normal, but so are the inner brakelights . But when the key is pulled the lights flicker a bit like a short circuit. I put the battery on charge and the light on the charger displayed fully charged straight away, this would indicate that the battery is ok, it is very damp at the moment around these parts it might just be that this is causing the problems.
Click to expand...
Although the dampness could cause a problem, it should not. I'd see your dealer. If the brake lights remain on, however, that indicates a problem. There was a service bulletin regarding brake lights staying on for the 2013 RT. If the lights merely flicker once when the key is turned off it may be an artifact of the system. I wouldn't worry unless they flicker repeatedly or for more than a second or two.
 
Flickering

NancysToy said:
Although the dampness could cause a problem, it should not. I'd see your dealer. If the brake lights remain on, however, that indicates a problem. There was a service bulletin regarding brake lights staying on for the 2013 RT. If the lights merely flicker once when the key is turned off it may be an artifact of the system. I wouldn't worry unless they flicker repeatedly or for more than a second or two.
Click to expand...
Ok so today I went into work and the :ani29: was great, no issues, so I put her in the boiler house and left it for 9 hours to dry out, it came out cooking and bone dry even a little bit of condensation in the headlights went, so great. But on the way home up came the fault again and this time the bike went into Limp mode, lights flashing, orange screen,DPS fault, the lot. So I pulled over a,nd went into code register, wow too many to record, must have been 8 codes up! by the time I got my phone out to take a photo shot of it the bike had switched off, then of course when I turned the key again all the codes bar 1 had gone(P0504). So I drove home (10 miles) and no issues. But this time I switched my handlebar heaters off, but something I am noticing is that just before all this happens I can't put my Cruise control on. Now that would suggest the brakes or brake lights are effecting it. AS if I don't have enough worries we don't have a local dealer so I feel this is going to be along struggle,,,,
 
service manual

I feel like Sherlock Holmes, ok so I've just been through the service book and it would seem the DPS on this trike has been changed Twice, Once in 2011 and again in 2013 June,,,,, I see a bit of history here, so what does this DPS unit look like? can any one tell me where to find it and how much these things cost? tomorrow i'm ripping out the fuses and the earth's on the bike cleaning them and start again from scratch, in the words of the talking head from Harry Potter,,"hold on to your heads were in for a bumpy ride". I always laugh in times of crisis,,,,,:pray:
 
You really do need a dealer to sort out the sequence of failure codes via BUDS. Be aware that a brake light switch failure, riding(continuosly touching) the brake, or failure of the brake pedal to fully return can cause a series of cascading codes...including DPS failure. A more common cause of cascading codes is a low battery condition however. I'd check your battery connections inside the body for tightness and cleanliness. Check to see that the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under hte seat) is tight. Then check the battery voltage, charging, and load test. I recommend you also check the brake reservoir to see that the brake fluid is fully topped off. The level can be deceiving, so make sur it is full. A brake fauklt can cause a VSS fault and subsequently a DPS fault. Beyond that checking the wiring connectors for moisture intrusion and tightness would be a good plan. If you can't make it to a dealer, you need to eliminate likely causes one by one until you can isolate the primary culprit.
 
going to hire a crane

NancysToy said:
You really do need a dealer to sort out the sequence of failure codes via BUDS. Be aware that a brake light switch failure, riding(continuosly touching) the brake, or failure of the brake pedal to fully return can cause a series of cascading codes...including DPS failure. A more common cause of cascading codes is a low battery condition however. I'd check your battery connections inside the body for tightness and cleanliness. Check to see that the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under hte seat) is tight. Then check the battery voltage, charging, and load test. I recommend you also check the brake reservoir to see that the brake fluid is fully topped off. The level can be deceiving, so make sur it is full. A brake fauklt can cause a VSS fault and subsequently a DPS fault. Beyond that checking the wiring connectors for moisture intrusion and tightness would be a good plan. If you can't make it to a dealer, you need to eliminate likely causes one by one until you can isolate the primary culprit.
Click to expand...
Think I need a crane to pick me up from the floor, £675 for a new DPS when the bike is only 3 years old and on it's 3rd DPS Unit, that can not be right!!! I think doing all the above before I dig deep has got to be the best option. And the cheapest. The bike has only covered 10,300 miles and only 1300 miles since the unit was last replaced. I have a feeling it's going to be something stupid with the brake lights or switches lets hope so!
Thanks for all your comments and inputs,
 
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