Brake Pads Replacement

[derif]

Just wondering how many miles most of you get before changing rear brake pads on a Spyder RT 2011. I just brought my bike in for it's 12000 mile service and they recommended changing my rear tire and replacing the brake pads.

 

[Jeriatric]

Here's a thread that will likely be helpful.


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?55304-Brake-pad-review&highlight=rear+brake+pads

 

[NancysToy]

That's right in the typical range of 10K-15K on rear tires. Rear brakes often do about the same, but be sure they measured them instead of eyeballing them. The minimum thickness is 1 mm. Ask them what yours measured.

 

[Dudley]

Just wondering how many miles most of you get before changing rear brake pads on a Spyder RT 2011. I just brought my bike in for it's 12000 mile service and they recommended changing my rear tire and replacing the brake pads.

We have a 2010 RT SM5 with 45,000 miles and original pads on all three wheels.

 

[ulflyer]

We have a 2010 RT SM5 with 45,000 miles and original pads on all three wheels.

And my '11 with 32K was on its third set of rear and second set of fronts when I traded it in Jan. Just goes to show you how it can vary.

 

[spacetiger]

If you replace the pads, I suggest using the ebc pads:

Front = FA474V
Rear = FA473V

It is an easy upgrade to improve your stopping ability.

Jerry

 

[Bob Denman]

...And you can figure that the rear pads will wear out in about half the mileage, that it takes to kill off the fronts... :thumbup:

 

[Texas]

Just wondering how many miles most of you get before changing rear brake pads on a Spyder RT 2011. I just brought my bike in for it's 12000 mile service and they recommended changing my rear tire and replacing the brake pads.

The answers you get are not going to be good guidelines for when you should be checking yours for replacement. As you can see, it could be less than 10K or more than 45K. It all depends on your style of riding. I am constantly aware of how much I use the brakes, and how hard I am on them. Based on my usage, I know I will get much more than 20K on my pads, but then again, I don't race from one stoplight to the next, and I leave plenty of room between me and the vehicle in front when I'm on the road.

If you don't have a feel for it, then I strongly suggest at least doing a visual check of your pads before every ride.

 

[NancysToy]

If you don't have a feel for it, then I strongly suggest at least doing a visual check of your pads before every ride.

It is hard to gauge from this. The pads are much thinner than other types. The minimum thickness is 1 mm. A brand new dime is 1.4 mm. I suggest using one as a gauge, for comparison.

 

[jtoro1]

18 k on the OHM tire 20 k on the rear pads easy replacements DIY

 

[Magdave]

The answers you get are not going to be good guidelines for when you should be checking yours for replacement. As you can see, it could be less than 10K or more than 45K. It all depends on your style of riding. I am constantly aware of how much I use the brakes, and how hard I am on them. Based on my usage, I know I will get much more than 20K on my pads, but then again, I don't race from one stoplight to the next, and I leave plenty of room between me and the vehicle in front when I'm on the road.

If you don't have a feel for it, then I strongly suggest at least doing a visual check of your pads before every ride.

:agree: And I Hypermile as much as possible including always down shifting and coasting a good distance before stopped traffic or stop light. I do tap the brake 3 or 4 times as I do this so the brake light is seen. I expect my pads to last on the higher range. My boy racer days are behind me but I do accelerate quickly if the road ahead is clear. Some habits are hard to break. :thumbup:

 

[Texas]

:agree: And I Hypermile as much as possible including always down shifting and coasting a good distance before stopped traffic or stop light. I do tap the brake 3 or 4 times as I do this so the brake light is seen. I expect my pads to last on the higher range. My boy racer days are behind me but I do accelerate quickly if the road ahead is clear. Some habits are hard to break. :thumbup:

It sounds like Dave and I went to the same school for braking. Not only is this much easier on the brake pads and tires; giving you more life out of both; but it also makes you a safer driver which may ultimately save your life one day.

 

[NancysToy]

A lot of brake life also depends on where you ride and your cargo. Riders in the flatlands will get better brake life than those in the mountains, given the same riding habits. Carrying a passenger, a lot of cargo, or especially towing a trailer will reduce brake life. You just have to use the brakes harder to handle the extra weight (and momentum). Spirited riding is the worst offender, IMO, but these other factors loom pretty large. There also seem to be differences between machines, for some unknown reason.

 

[Magdave]

A lot of brake life also depends on where you ride and your cargo. Riders in the flatlands will get better brake life than those in the mountains, given the same riding habits. Carrying a passenger, a lot of cargo, or especially towing a trailer will reduce brake life. You just have to use the brakes harder to handle the extra weight (and momentum). Spirited riding is the worst offender, IMO, but these other factors loom pretty large. There also seem to be differences between machines, for some unknown reason.

It doesn't get much flatter than the Low Country of SC. Biggest hazard is other drivers and I always try to be in front of a traffic line if possible. :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

There are a lot of variables having effect on brake pad life. One of the greatest (in my opinion) is changing them too soon.

Others are;

Heavily loaded pulling a trailer
Running at low RPMs in the twisties or mountains (isn't that the same thing?)where decel braking is minimized
Not downshifting to meet the circumstances (not only shortens brake life but may also lead to brake fade when you really need them)
Riding the brakes
Not adjusting the Parking Brake with new pads causing them to drag

Hard riding, done correctly, does not necessarily put that much strain on the brakes.

 

[SNOOPY]

The answers you get are not going to be good guidelines for when you should be checking yours for replacement. As you can see, it could be less than 10K or more than 45K. It all depends on your style of riding. I am constantly aware of how much I use the brakes, and how hard I am on them. Based on my usage, I know I will get much more than 20K on my pads, but then again, I don't race from one stoplight to the next, and I leave plenty of room between me and the vehicle in front when I'm on the road.

If you don't have a feel for it, then I strongly suggest at least doing a visual check of your pads before every ride.

I think I drive the opposite of you? Lol

I drive it like I stole it and consider brakes and tires as consumables.

I save my daily drivers for making parts last and getting better mileage.

.

 

[Bob Denman]

I'd rather take care of the bike's various bits and pieces ... It reduces downtime for maintenance and repairs! :thumbup:

 

[bmwlarry]

I replaced my rears at 23,000 miles and the fronts are still good to go.

 

[revjvegas]

What is the starting thickness of new pads?

Ok, so I know that the spec for replacement is when the pads get to 1mm.

But I cannot seem to find any spec info on what the thickness is for a new pad. Wondering how much material there is to begin with.

 

[missouriboy]

Ok, so I know that the spec for replacement is when the pads get to 1mm.

But I cannot seem to find any spec info on what the thickness is for a new pad. Wondering how much material there is to begin with.

I recently measured a new EBC FA473V pad with a micrometer caliper and found it to be .150". A conversion chart I have indicates that's about 3.8mm.

But I can't swear my measuring technique was 100% perfect. :thumbup: