Battery Tender Connection

[MrLooney]

I just purchased a DURA BOOST Battery Maintainer 750 from a local Motor Bike Accessory shop.
I have read a few of the posts where to connect and not to connect it to my 2011 RS~S Roadster.
By the post, it is saying, DO NOT CONNECT to the jumper posts under the seat, but to go DIRECTLY TO BATTERY POSTS. Not a problem to pull a panel and connect directly using the round eye connecters instead of the alligator clips. Both with a quick disconnect so I can leave the pigtail hanging for use at any time. This round eye connector has an in line fuse block for what ever reason.

Now here's the problem, this Maintainer is for Lead Acid Batteries including
1. Absorbed Glass Mat Maintenance Free Batteries (AGM)
2. Factory Activated Maintenance Free Batteries (FA)
3. Conventional Acid Batteries (WET)
4. Gel (Gel Electrolyte)

What battery is in our Spyders?
Still a stock factory battery.

 

[Spyder Tony]

Good Question...

Although I don't have the answer, I will be staying tuned to read what is posted by someone more knowledgeable than I...

 

[wd5gnr]

The 2013 RT it is an AGM.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Chupaca]

As I see it..!!

that pretty much covers all types used in vehicles. Connect to your battery directly. Your inline fuse saves running through the fuse block and protects against any surges shorts etc... :thumbup:

 

[MrLooney]

that pretty much covers all types used in vehicles. Connect to your battery directly. Your inline fuse saves running through the fuse block and protects against any surges shorts etc... :thumbup:

Then I am good to go for my next MOD in the morning !! :2thumbs: Tanks Buddy!

 

[mcaccamise]

My 2012 RSS SM5

There are two wired connectors from the fuse block one is used with the ignition on and the other is a straight line to the battery so i added two plug in outlets in my frunk one is for accessorys with key on and the other one is for charging the battery no key on much easyor to plug in the tendor for charging.
If you want to go this rout and need help im here Mike.

 

[MikeinGA]

I just purchased a DURA BOOST Battery Maintainer 750 from a local Motor Bike Accessory shop.
I have read a few of the posts where to connect and not to connect it to my 2011 RS~S Roadster.
By the post, it is saying, DO NOT CONNECT to the jumper posts under the seat, but to go DIRECTLY TO BATTERY POSTS. Not a problem to pull a panel and connect directly using the round eye connecters instead of the alligator clips. Both with a quick disconnect so I can leave the pigtail hanging for use at any time. This round eye connector has an in line fuse block for what ever reason.

Now here's the problem, this Maintainer is for Lead Acid Batteries including
1. Absorbed Glass Mat Maintenance Free Batteries (AGM)
2. Factory Activated Maintenance Free Batteries (FA)
3. Conventional Acid Batteries (WET)
4. Gel (Gel Electrolyte)

What battery is in our Spyders?
Still a stock factory battery.

I have a 2011 RS-S I have my battery tender installed right to the battery, I also used stainless steel star washers to keep the battery connectors tight.


Mike

 

[MrLooney]

UP DATE BATTERY TENDER + MONO COWEL REAR SEAT COVER

HEY EVERYONE

thanks for the great information...... I have finished with the install (s)

I had to take the seat off and passenger panic grips because I could not remove the tupperware because of the GIVI bag mounts. OH WELL!!

I am glad I did get to the battery, the bolts were barely finger tight. It's a wonder I haven't had starting and charging problems.

Now I have a plug and play battery maintainer.

While it was apart I figured out how to put my Mono Cowl rear seat cover on. The factory bungees were broken before I got my Roadster. Scratching my head I came up with the idea of what to use. I stopped at a HARLEY shop and picked up an old front wheel inner tube and cut 1/2" wide rounds out of it and ingeniously mounted them to the seat by way of plastic sheetrock screw sleeves wedged in where the factory bungees mount. PERFECT FIT !! I'll have to get some pics to show you all that. Basically I took the plastic sleeves and put it to one side of the innertube round. Then slid it into the Keyhole slot under the seat and pulled the innertube and sleeve snug.

Me A Happy Camper

 

[ulflyer]

Do not connect to jumper posts? Why not? I've been using that post for a Gerbing heated clothing plug since the RT was new and I have my Tender wired for a Gerbing plug and use it regularly for maintaining a charge. :yikes:

 

[NancysToy]

Do not connect to jumper posts? Why not? I've been using that post for a Gerbing heated clothing plug since the RT was new and I have my Tender wired for a Gerbing plug and use it regularly for maintaining a charge. :yikes:

Loosening the negative jumper connection under the seat causes the uncaptured nut to come loose, and requires body panel removal and some contortions and special tools to retighten it. Since that is the rear frame ground, a loose connection can adversely affect battery charging and all electrical functions. This has been well documented and warned against here, many times.

 

[Bob Denman]

Yup!
I think that they put that connection there just to put a kink in the colons, of the uninformed... :shocked:

 

[NancysToy]

Yup!
I think that they put that connection there just to put a kink in the colons, of the uninformed... :shocked:

Maybe the world was running out of cuss words, and they needed a stimulus to invent some more. :roflblack:

 

[ulflyer]

Loosening the negative jumper connection under the seat causes the uncaptured nut to come loose, and requires body panel removal and some contortions and special tools to retighten it. Since that is the rear frame ground, a loose connection can adversely affect battery charging and all electrical functions. This has been well documented and warned against here, many times.

Thanks Scotty; didn't know that was only reason for the caution. I found that out early on about that lovely but managed to get it tightened back once I realized what type bolt it was. :banghead:

After that I drilled a small hole in the metal frame and attached the Gerbing ground wire with a screw. With the '14....if I get one....I can start all over. Spoke to Mech yesterday and he said no problem; he'd run it from the battery back to underneath the seat where I'd want it.

 

[Bob Denman]

Maybe the world was running out of cuss words, and they needed a stimulus to invent some more. :roflblack:

I'm pretty sure that they got all the new ones they'll ever need from it! :thumbup:

 

[MrLooney]

Here are the pics I took during the install
1. Where to find this large 3 point driver?
2. Top view of battery with Battery Maintainer 750 battery mount lead.
3. A selection of tools used.
4. An inner tube round cut about 1/2" wide with a white plastic sheetrock sleeve slipped into the keyhole slot. The inner tube goes around the white sleeve then inserted into the slot.

I just purchased a DURA BOOST Battery Maintainer 750 from a local Motor Bike Accessory shop.
I have read a few of the posts where to connect and not to connect it to my 2011 RS~S Roadster.
By the post, it is saying, DO NOT CONNECT to the jumper posts under the seat, but to go DIRECTLY TO BATTERY POSTS. Not a problem to pull a panel and connect directly using the round eye connecters instead of the alligator clips. Both with a quick disconnect so I can leave the pigtail hanging for use at any time. This round eye connector has an in line fuse block for what ever reason.

Now here's the problem, this Maintainer is for Lead Acid Batteries including
1. Absorbed Glass Mat Maintenance Free Batteries (AGM)
2. Factory Activated Maintenance Free Batteries (FA)
3. Conventional Acid Batteries (WET)
4. Gel (Gel Electrolyte)

What battery is in our Spyders?
Still a stock factory battery.

 

[NancysToy]

The driver to remove the quick-connect bag racks should have come with the bag kit. Nancy keeps hers in her frunk. If you don't have one, you'll likely have to make one. You might also try contacting Twisted Throttle to see if they can provide a wrench for their SW-MOTECH racks...which appear to have been licensed to BRP for the Spyder.

 

[MrLooney]

Thanks

The driver to remove the quick-connect bag racks should have come with the bag kit. Nancy keeps hers in her frunk. If you don't have one, you'll likely have to make one. You might also try contacting Twisted Throttle to see if they can provide a wrench for their SW-MOTECH racks...which appear to have been licensed to BRP for the Spyder.

Thank you for the information. I purchased my Roadster second hand. I am guessing the Utah dealer did not include it after installation.

I will research Twisted Throttle and see if they can help me.

Again Thanks for all the wonderful information you provide so much of the time to all

 

[NancysToy]

Thank you for the information. I purchased my Roadster second hand. I am guessing the Utah dealer did not include it after installation.

I will research Twisted Throttle and see if they can help me.

Again Thanks for all the wonderful information you provide so much of the time to all

It is just a T-wrench with a triangular end. Take a piece of 1/2" steel rod and grind the end into a triangular shape to fit into the fastener. On the other end, drill a hole and insert a smaller rod for a handle (like the original), weld a handle at a right angle, weld on a nut and use a wrench or socket, or grind a square and use a crescent wrench. Easy tool to make. The fasteners are 1/4 turn dzus-type fasteners.