2009 RS won't start..

[Dkerr]

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I just got my RS back from the dealership following complete engine rebuild. They test drove it, ran fine. I picked it up, it started fine, stopped at gas station on way home and filled tank. It again started fine, stopped and picked up my mail. It again started right up, and I continued home and parked it in the garage. Today, I went out and installed a BRP sport rack which required desconnecting and removing the battery. Upon completing the installation, reinstalling and hooking up the battery, I decided to for short ride... WRONG!!
I went thru the standard starting procedures...turning on the switch, vefified I was in neutral, pushed the Mode button, everything looks normal, then pushed the starter button.... No response! There were no warning lights, no messages,... I checked the kill switch, it's in the Run position...switched it back and forth a few times...tried again...nothing...made sure my foot was on brake..still nothing. I checked the battery voltage...12.7 V.. Checked connections...solid. Checked fuses...all good.
When I switch the ignition on, or when I hit the starter, there is a faint hum, which lasts maybe 10 seconds then stops...sounds like it's near the battery, but if I lean forward it sounds like it's coming from the lower right side of the motor...?
Would appreciate any suggestions, as the dealership is closed till Tuesday...

 

[ARtraveler]

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I just got my RS back from the dealership following complete engine rebuild. They test drove it, ran fine. I picked it up, it started fine, stopped at gas station on way home and filled tank. It again started fine, stopped and picked up my mail. It again started right up, and I continued home and parked it in the garage. Today, I went out and installed a BRP sport rack which required desconnecting and removing the battery. Upon completing the installation, reinstalling and hooking up the battery, I decided to for short ride... WRONG!!
I went thru the standard starting procedures...turning on the switch, vefified I was in neutral, pushed the Mode button, everything looks normal, then pushed the starter button.... No response! There were no warning lights, no messages,... I checked the kill switch, it's in the Run position...switched it back and forth a few times...tried again...nothing...made sure my foot was on brake..still nothing. I checked the battery voltage...12.7 V.. Checked connections...solid. Checked fuses...all good.
When I switch the ignition on, or when I hit the starter, there is a faint hum, which lasts maybe 10 seconds then stops...sounds like it's near the battery, but if I lean forward it sounds like it's coming from the lower right side of the motor...?
Would appreciate any suggestions, as the dealership is closed till Tuesday...

Not considered an expert mechanic here but would be suspicious that something got disconnected or a fuse/breaker blew when you had the battery disconnected. I note you mentioned you checked this stuff. Others will come on with more ideas.

 

[Knarfoh]

I fix computers/networks/ etc. When something goes wrong - we have a checklist we follow to help find the problem. Near the top is: What have you done to change the system (software installs and new hardware lead the list, but there are others).

Sometimes - we trace the problem quickly! Other times - it is very laborious! We have repaired software/hardware problems, only to have the person immediately engage in the same activity that caused the problem to begin with.... We always ask them - PLEASE, DO NOT MAKE ANY CHANGES FOR A FEW DAYS SO WE CAN BE CERTAIN OUR FIX WAS THE FINAL SOLUTION! That is the reason so many companies have policies prohibiting employees from installing their own software/hardware in company computers or laptops.

You have introduced something into the equation by making changes so quickly after a major repair. And, you make it clear EVERYTHING was fine before you installed the BRP Sport Rack but IMMEDIATELY after the install your problems began. If I read your post correctly, it never started after your install.

Your checklist on what you checked looks pretty good. Sometimes - the problem is right in front of you and you don't see it. A fresh set of eyes (after sleeping on it overnight) or inviting a friend to monitor your work helps. We sometimes switch out technicians when we can't find the problem to see if they can find it.

Sometimes, the problem turns out coincidental to the repairs/alterations you made, i.e. the battery isn't charging but it still allowed you to start and operate your Spyder. You made your alterations - but by the next time you went to start your Spyder the battery had discharged enough it would not turn over the engine. Sounds like your Spyder battery was idle for quite a while because of the type of repair you had done. The mechanic may have put a charger to it to bring it up to speed.

I didn't see in your post where you checked the battery adequately. Put a charger to the battery and see if that works. Or jump it if you know how to do that correctly.

Make sure it is neutral (didn't see that either in your post) with foot on the brake. Some people have the habit of leaving it in gear (on SM-5) with a foot on the clutch and starting their Spyder. Not sure if you have SM-5 or semi-automatic from your post. Takes more oomph from the battery if in gear.

P.S. Checking a battery without a load can be misleading. Many batteries test fine, with a simple battery tester, but they can't handle a load. A freshly charged battery may have got you home from the dealership, but it gradually wore down.

By the way, my battery usually tests around 13.7v (or even higher).

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..!!

How long was that battery unattended while they rebuilt the engine..?? assuming your start up is normal...dash lights, press mode to start, etc. Would indicate the battery is in correctly. If battery is flipped polarity is also flipped. If you hear no clicking when pressing starter button and all else is correct, in neutral, clutch in if in gear, foot on brake if automatic, etc. I would suspect the battery. Surface charges will light things up but not start the engine. Also make sure all your connections are good and tight. Ground to frame especially...good luck but it does seem like something simple.

 

[Dkerr]

Anybody know where the "ground to frame" is located? I have seen posts where it was said that it was under the seat, but I see nothing electrical under the seat except the fuse box...! Also don't see the post under the seat for jump starting??


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[Dkerr]

4 hrs on a charger, and my Spyder started right up. While my charger said the voltage was at 12.7V, it also said the level was at 40% when I checked that. Hopefully this solves my starting issue...if not, then I'll be ordering an Odyssey. Thanks to those who offered suggestions..!
I'm now troubled with a new issue...trying to install 4.5" risers. Doesn't look good!


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[NancysToy]

Anybody know where the "ground to frame" is located? I have seen posts where it was said that it was under the seat, but I see nothing electrical under the seat except the fuse box...! Also don't see the post under the seat for jump starting??


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The negative jump start terminal is the rear frame ground...next to the system fuse box.