AMSOIL or BRP oil

[NancysToy]

I have to agree! I had a situation with my wife's car where the repair was a service bulletin and Mazda would not complete the repair without ALL service (oil change) records. I talked to several dealerships to see if this was true and they all stated the same thing. I was missing documentation for one oil change. Fortunately I found the records to prove it was done and within Mazdas recommended time frame. I like the idea of 6,000 mile oil changes, but it opens a door that the manufacturer can slam shut.

:lecturef_smilie: Please be more careful with your quotes. The passage above makes it seem like my words are what BRP stated. They did not! I'm sure they do not want me speaking directly for them. The following statement by BRP was omitted from your quote.

Routine maintenance as outlined in the Operator's Guide must be performed in

a timely manner. BRP reserves the right to make warranty coverage contingent​

upon proof of proper maintenance.

 

[ulflyer]

Oh boy, another oil thread and it's usual banter. And more AmSoil parroting and (their own "can't be biased") data to back up their claims. And yet, a recent used oil analysis on BITOG of AmSoil shows that after 3256 miles, in a Spyder, it sheared to a 20 weight. Sorry boys and girls, this engine and trans is proving itself to be a mixmaster of the nth degree. I've said it before, do not fall for the AmSoil (or Castrol, or Valvoline, or ANY) hype about extended drains. You are not doing yourself any favors. I just pulled a sample of my oil at 2000 miles for analysis. I'll have it back in a week or so, and that will determine if it stays for another 1000 (or zero) miles. But it's not likely it will make 3000 based on what I've seen. Blackstone kits are free as mentioned, then you send your oil and payment together. Schaeffer oils in Saint Louis has an on-site lab. Call them, they'll send a kit for a reasonable price. As well, Butler Labs (http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/6/butler-machinery-sos-oil-analysis) will do a UOA also. Manage by fact. You spend a ton on a great machine, and probably lots more on farkles. What is 24 dollars or so to get a read on the health of your engine, and see if your oil is doing what is advertised?

Do me a favor when you get the report back and let us know what oil you are using and what the viscosity was at 2K. I would particularly like to know how BRP's blend fares, if anyone has tested it.

 

[beanoil]

Do me a favor when you get the report back and let us know what oil you are using and what the viscosity was at 2K. I would particularly like to know how BRP's blend fares, if anyone has tested it.

I changed oil today... The report came back from the lab, and indicated that the Liqui-Moly oil I used ( a very good semi-synthetic German oil), 10w40, had sheared to a 30 weight in 2000 miles. So it's out of there, and a new fill of Brad-Penn V2 10w40 went in for this run. Info on Brad-Penn is here: http://www.amref.com/CMSFiles/File/bp_pb/7156_BP_Penn-Grade_1_4_Stroke_Motorcycle_Oil_PB.pdf and if you are interested, the BP was 5.00 a quart x 4, plus a trans filter 9.00, and a Hi-Flo engine filter, 10.00, for a total of 39.00 on this change. Your mileage may vary, get your oil tested.....

 

[ulflyer]

Beanoil, thanks for the report. It goes along pretty closely to mine with Castrol Actevo Blend. I've heard of Brad-Penn but never run across any. Did you order it on-line or have a local store that stocks it? The specs on it look good except for the TBN which is fairly low. Will be interested to see how it works out but I wouldn't be surprised if, at 2000 it will also have sheared down to a 30W. The fact is, to get a wide spread oil like 10-40 it takes a lot of chemical engineering and they're fine in most bikes, but in wet clutch machines like ours the oil is sheared something fierce.

I think BRP was on the money initially when they called for changes around 3600. I read all of BITOG reports as oil interests me a lot and I enjoy experimenting with different brands and types to find what works best in my machine.

One of these days I'm going to try Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel 15W-40 as its properties are very similar to motorcycle oil. With 31K on mine now I'm not worried about warranty issues. If my clutch goes out it will be because its worn out, not because it had something other than 10W-40 in it. With the moderate climate I live in, a 15W as opposed to a 10W to start won't make any diff; when the oil warms up its all 40W no matter what it started out as. I wouldn't do this if I lived somewhere it gets really cold or if my bike sat outside. Then I'd prob go with a 5W-40.

I hope some others that have tested their oil will chime in with the type and how it fared.

 

[Tango]

The higher the oil is in "TBN" the better the oil is. IMHO And the longer it will last. :thumbup: Tom :trike:

 

[Highwayman2013]

TBN refers to "total base number", this is the ability of oil to combat acids. In a normal drain this should have nothing to do with anything. It is the extended drains where this comes into play. It is watched on HD diesel engines with bypass oil filters where the oil is only changed when analysis shows the oil is contaminated or the TBN is too low. Oil is not that expensive in a bike that it can't be changed at the recommended interval. I use the BRP kit for my spyder at 4600 miles. Oh yeah:bdh:

 

[beanoil]

Beanoil, thanks for the report. It goes along pretty closely to mine with Castrol Actevo Blend. I've heard of Brad-Penn but never run across any. Did you order it on-line or have a local store that stocks it? The specs on it look good except for the TBN which is fairly low. Will be interested to see how it works out but I wouldn't be surprised if, at 2000 it will also have sheared down to a 30W. The fact is, to get a wide spread oil like 10-40 it takes a lot of chemical engineering and they're fine in most bikes, but in wet clutch machines like ours the oil is sheared something fierce.

I hope some others that have tested their oil will chime in with the type and how it fared.

I'm fortunate to have a local distributor in Saint Louis that is as crazy as I am about lubrication. Brad-Penn, Elf, Motul, and Total are a few of his products. And I agree most likely the BP will be a 30 weight in another 2k. I did run BP in my ST1300 for 4k one time, and it was only down to a 30 weight at that point, so I do think it has some inherent shear stability. But apples and oranges, the ST1300 is super easy on oil. TBN, as mentioned, is only important if trying to achieve extended drains. High TBN does not necessarily make a better oil, and I'm not concerned about the BP being a little lower than some others. It is a 100% American product, if that is important to you, and you should be able to find it out East. I used to pick it up on trips to PA, VA, and MA before I found it locally. Try NAPA in the East, or contact AmRef on their site.

 

[Bob T.]

Bob T.

I use Shell Rotella T-6 no problems with 26240 mi. on my 2011 RT-SM

 

[ulflyer]

Oil is not that expensive in a bike that it can't be changed at the recommended interval. I use the BRP kit for my spyder at 4600 miles. Oh yeah

Would be interesting to see a lab report on it.

I'm not interested in extended drains but would like to find a motorcycle oil that can make even 4000 miles without shearing down into the 20 to low 30W levels.

 

[OldCowboy]

Would be interesting to see a lab report on it.

I'm not interested in extended drains but would like to find a motorcycle oil that can make even 4000 miles without shearing down into the 20 to low 30W levels.

All multi-grade motor oils will shear. And the greater the spread, the greater the shear. So, a 0W40 will shear more than a 10W40. Also, the amount of shear is not time dependent. I have a Ford PowerStroke that will shear 5W40 synthetic Rotella to 30 weight in 2000 miles even though the oil is good for 6000-7000 miles. But the viscosity doesn't drop below 30 weight even with the longer use.

Also, TBN is important. However, if your average ryde is more than 20 miles and you change your oil every 4600 miles as BRP recommends, then pretty much any major brand motorcycle oil will have enough TBN to neutralize acids over that time period.

I'm a great fan of Amsoil and use it in all my vehicles. It has a robust additive package with gobs of TBN. In my mind, however, the fact that it is a true synthetic as opposed to a Group III 'synthetic' is an advantage. I think it's always a bad idea to extend oil change intervals while a vehicle is under warranty.

 

[beanoil]

All multi-grade motor oils will shear. And the greater the spread, the greater the shear. So, a 0W40 will shear more than a 10W40. Also, the amount of shear is not time dependent. I have a Ford PowerStroke that will shear 5W40 synthetic Rotella to 30 weight in 2000 miles even though the oil is good for 6000-7000 miles. But the viscosity doesn't drop below 30 weight even with the longer use.

Also, TBN is important. However, if your average ryde is more than 20 miles and you change your oil every 4600 miles as BRP recommends, then pretty much any major brand motorcycle oil will have enough TBN to neutralize acids over that time period.

I'm a great fan of Amsoil and use it in all my vehicles. It has a robust additive package with gobs of TBN. In my mind, however, the fact that it is a true synthetic as opposed to a Group III 'synthetic' is an advantage. I think it's always a bad idea to extend oil change intervals while a vehicle is under warranty.

Way off topic here, but I've seen the same thing in my 6.0 Powerstroke. I switched to Rotella T5 long ago, 10w30. It goes in a 30, and comes out a 30 4000 miles later. The HPOP and injectors ruin the oil in the Powerstroke... You are correct sir, the wider the spread in the numbers, generally speaking, the greater the tendency to shear. And almost universally, even with the same 30 point spread, a 20w50 will shear less than a 10w40. I've got several used oil analysis from my ST1300 on Havoline conventional 20w50 where wear was practically non existent, and it was still a 40 weight after more than 4000 miles. In comparison, Mobil 1 15w50 was a 30 weight at the same change interval. Again, apples and oranges, the ST does not really abuse oil. But it does support the point spread vs. shear statement. If it wasn't for those pesky cold starts, one would be better off running a straight 40 in most any common sump motor.