600 mile oil change and service

[golfsferr]

I just recently had my 600 mile service and I feel totally ripped off. Basically $200 for a friggin oil change and the other standard services for the 600 mile service check. I think they had it for about an hour so it couldn't have been too in depth. Is this normal for Spyder dealers or did I get ripped off?

Is there a YouTube video out there that shows the oil change process so I can do it myself.

thanks for your replies.

 

[hchays]

I paid $225.....

 

[ARtraveler]

Only $200?--you got a deal. A thourough check of the Spyder and oil change should take about 2 1/2 hours. My dealer charges $110 per hour. Most of the time, I pay $300-$350. That seems to be what a lot of others pay also. Wait until you elect to do the valve check service. Add $600 to $800 for that.
High service costs are one of my favorite rants. Having owned 4 :spyder2:'s and gone over 80,000 miles, I feel I have paid my fair share of service costs. If I did not like the :ani29: a lot--I would have been long gone. :thumbup:

 

[golfsferr]

Thanks guys I appreciate that and feel better too. One other thing, when I got it back I checked the oil level just so I could see how, and it appeared overfull to me. It was about 1/4-3/8" over the full mark. I called the dealer and he said that since it was a dry sump system that being over full was not a problem. Does this sound normal too?

i did find a YouTube video showing the process and it certainly not as simple as a car is.
jiffy lube for $30/40 on my car is a steal!

 

[NancysToy]

Te3chnically small differences in a dry sump systeme do not have any effect. The Spyder tends to blow oil into the airbox when over-full, however.

 

[golfsferr]

I just went out started up and let it get to normal running temp then checked oil level. It was just a fraction over the halfway mark between add and full. Maybe when I checked it last time it wasn't the proper procedure. I guess I'm good now, thanks for you all's help! :thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

I just went out started up and let it get to normal running temp then checked oil level. It was just a fraction over the halfway mark between add and full. Maybe when I checked it last time it wasn't the proper procedure. I guess I'm good now, thanks for you all's help! :thumbup:

If all you did was start it and bring the gauge up to normal, you were not likely at full normal operating temperature. best time to check is after a ride. Also, be sure to screw the dipstick in when checking. The Spyder oil checking procedures are different than most vehicles.

 

[Dudley]

If all you did was start it and bring the gauge up to normal, you were not likely at full normal operating temperature. best time to check is after a ride. Also, be sure to screw the dipstick in when checking. The Spyder oil checking procedures are different than most vehicles.

I have often wondered why BRP could not have made the dip stick longer to measure oil without screwing it down. This is far from being rocket science.

 

[golfsferr]

If all you did was start it and bring the gauge up to normal, you were not likely at full normal operating temperature. best time to check is after a ride. Also, be sure to screw the dipstick in when checking. The Spyder oil checking procedures are different than most vehicles.

I let it run for quite a while but before i did that I checked it cold and the dip stick showed "add". When I checked it after it ran for awhile the dip stick was closer to full. I can only imagine that if I drove it then checked it, it would probably show full or closer to it. Don't you think?

 

[NancysToy]

I let it run for quite a while but before i did that I checked it cold and the dip stick showed "add". When I checked it after it ran for awhile the dip stick was closer to full. I can only imagine that if I drove it then checked it, it would probably show full or closer to it. Don't you think?

Learn to check it correctly. It is the only way to get consistent readings. There is no way to second guess it accurately. The metal and oil need to be at full operating temperature...not just the water, and all oil needs to be evacuated from the sump...and don't forget to screw in that dipstick.

 

[golfsferr]

Learn to check it correctly. It is the only way to get consistent readings. There is no way to second guess it accurately. The metal and oil need to be at full operating temperature...not just the water, and all oil needs to be evacuated from the sump...and don't forget to screw in that dipstick.

I read the operating manual before I checked it. It said let it get to normal operating temperature before checking. I watched the heat gauge and checked it after it got to that point. I don't have an oil temp gauge. I only unscrewed and removed the dip stick to check the oil. There's no need to leave it out after that. What am I missing? :dontknow:

 

[Showie]

Hope you guys are jealous. pps: Last Friday oil change at dealer $130.00. :yes::yes: 600 mile check up was $160.00.

 

[NancysToy]

I read the operating manual before I checked it. It said let it get to normal operating temperature before checking. I watched the heat gauge and checked it after it got to that point. I don't have an oil temp gauge. I only unscrewed and removed the dip stick to check the oil. There's no need to leave it out after that. What am I missing? :dontknow:

You don't need an oil temperature gauge, but just watching the water temperature gauge is not enough. The best thing is to check after a ride of ten or more minutes. By that time the oil is thoroughly warmed and the engine metal is at full operating temperature. If the Spyder was shut off for a while, restart it and run it at least 30 seconds to evacuate the sump, then shut off again and check the level. I suggest waiting about a minute after shutdown for any bubbles to subside. Remove the dipstick, wipe it off so you don't inadvertantly read where the return oil splashed on it, reinsert it, screw it down, then unscrew it again and read it. It isn't rocket science but it is important to do it this way for consistent and accurate readings.

 

[golfsferr]

You don't need an oil teperature gauge, but just watching the water temperature gauge is not enough. The best thing is to check after a ride of ten or more minutes. By that time the oil is thoroughly warmed and the engine metal is at full operating temperature. If the Spyder was shut off for a while, restart it and run it at least 30 seconds to evacuate the sump, then shut off again and check the level. I suggest waiting about a minute after shutdown for any bubbles to subside. Remove the dipstick, wipe it off so you don't inadvertantly read where the return oil splashed on it, reinsert it, screw it down, then unscrew it again and read it. It isn't rocket science but it is important to do it this way for consistent and accurate readings.

Thanks, I'll do that just in case. :thumbup: