Yesterday, after riding for about 75 miles, I started having trouble downshifting from 2nd to 1st while coming to a stop at lights on my 2012 model RT-SM5. A couple of times I actually had to pull through the light in 2nd because I couldn't get into 1st and I had traffic behind. I've got about 6,500 miles on the Spyder and all maintenance has been at a dealer as scheduled. Any suggestions on things I might check before going to the dealer? I am not very mechanically inclined. Thanks for any wisdom you may offer.
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2012 SM5 Downshift Issue
- Thread starter TRQ
- Start date
mcaccamise
New member
I would check the clutch master cylender for proper fluid level if it is ok take the bike to the Dealer to check Clutches or bleeding if necessary.
Mike
Mike
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The oil level has nothing to do with the shifting on an SM.
finless
New member
On my SM-5 I find it does not like to down shift to first if your going over about 25-30 MPH. If you do you get a pretty bad CLUNK or it is hard to get it to actually go into 1st.. If I am over 23-ish I just leave it in 2nd gear.
Don't know if that helps your problem.
But that brings me to another question related to the SM-5. Why do you get such a hard clunk when going into first at a stop? Seems cycle transmitions in this day and age would not be so hard like that? I can only get a soft clunk going into 1st if I am moving about 10-15 MPH.
Bob
Don't know if that helps your problem.
But that brings me to another question related to the SM-5. Why do you get such a hard clunk when going into first at a stop? Seems cycle transmitions in this day and age would not be so hard like that? I can only get a soft clunk going into 1st if I am moving about 10-15 MPH.
Bob
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You want to hear a clunk, ride my BMWs. They make the Spyder first gear seem silent. Don't sweat the sound it makes, only if it makes a loud one you never heard before.
r1100rider
New member
I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to tell me. I was not trying to find neutral - I was trying to down shift from 2nd to 1st while slowing to red lights. I've never had any such issues downshifting on any other bikes I've owned and/or ridden, including Harley's, Kawasaki, Yamaha's and Honda's. And, this issue just surfaced yesterday on the SM5. Sorry, but I don't understand your point.
bruiser
New member
The clunk you hear is normal for square cut gears.
I have had occasional issues with first gear. I normally ease out the clutch then pull it back in and it goes right in to gear. There are several reasons for shift issues on SM5s. First is clutch fluid. BRP recommends changing the fluid every 12,000 miles or two years. Low fluid, air in the system, dirty fluid can cause shift problems. A bent shift lever will do it to.
I have had occasional issues with first gear. I normally ease out the clutch then pull it back in and it goes right in to gear. There are several reasons for shift issues on SM5s. First is clutch fluid. BRP recommends changing the fluid every 12,000 miles or two years. Low fluid, air in the system, dirty fluid can cause shift problems. A bent shift lever will do it to.
I wanted to follow-up on the issue in case it may help others. I checked the clutch fluid and the level was fine. But, I did notice some sludge. I took the Spyder to the dealer and had them flush and replace the fluid. The mechanic indicated he had never seen such sludge and suspected some type of contamination but he could not offer any ideas on how the contamination occurred. Anyway, down shifting is now fine. Thanks for the suggestions.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The contamination comes from the slave cylinder. It can be rubber, if the o-rings are deteriorating, or aluminum, if the cylinder/piston is becoming worn or scored. Eventually it may require slave cylinder repair or replacement. Keep a close eye on it, and if it gets worse have your dealer contact BRP dealer tech support for advice. Frequent flushing helps.
Bob Denman
New member
Scotty,
Were you ever able to figure out the O-ring isues? I recally ou mentioning this a bit over a year ago... :dontknow:
Is that the "goop" that monkeys up the operation of the clutches?
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
It doesn't always hinder the operation of the clutch, only if the O-rings or slave cylinder get bad enough to leak by. The "goop" by itself is more of a sign than a cause. The problem seems to be less prevalent now, perhaps due to a change in materials? The "goop" can be O-ring rubber or its by-product, aluminum particles from worn or scored slave piston or cylinder, or as appears to be a possibility, moisture or oxidation induced by-products from the synthetic brake fluid. The bottom line is that the clutch fluid on an SM is required to be changed periodically in the maintenance schedule, and that task should be performed at or sooner than the scheduled intervals. This is not a task to neglect...although many owners do so.
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