MikeinGA
New member
:agree: It looks like a part failure or a bad plastic casting. It's only a $15.00 part and a 20 minute repair. I don't remember hearing of this problem before. Let BRP fix it. That's IMHO.
Mike
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Riding skyway today and this happened....
- Thread starter rabtech
- Start date
:agree: It looks like a part failure or a bad plastic casting. It's only a $15.00 part and a 20 minute repair. I don't remember hearing of this problem before. Let BRP fix it. That's IMHO.
Mike
wyliec
New member
Did you ask why you were being charged?
Jharpo
New member
lookerjdc
New member
I had my sway bar installed back at Spyderfest - Pitbull did the installation
since Spydefest, I have done a lot of riding including at the Owners Event (Tail of the Dragon, Moonshiner, Rattler, Skyway, etc) and I can tell you that Rons anti sway bar made Masggie Valley very very very much fun
no problems so far, and I dont expect that I will
2012 RTS
but good thread with lots of info
since Spydefest, I have done a lot of riding including at the Owners Event (Tail of the Dragon, Moonshiner, Rattler, Skyway, etc) and I can tell you that Rons anti sway bar made Masggie Valley very very very much fun
no problems so far, and I dont expect that I will
2012 RTS
but good thread with lots of info
I like both solutions to the link. I think that both way's you could adjust the length to stock center to center specs. Off to the hardware store and make up a spare set. If I Never use them I might be able to help a Spyder in need on the road.
I love this sight, thanks to you all.
I love this sight, thanks to you all.
spyderpoop
New member
confused
can you please explain this to me a little better your showing the new hem joint thingy on amazon with threads and its the plastic that broke so how are you gonna mount the new bolts to the sway bar if the sway plastic connector is cracked so I don't follow this and I know I,am not a merchanic but as I said one replacement your saying is the metal bolt thingy but the piece that broke is the plastic piece connector ? so so confused ?? darn thanks for any time you take to explain it to me ? Rich
can you please explain this to me a little better your showing the new hem joint thingy on amazon with threads and its the plastic that broke so how are you gonna mount the new bolts to the sway bar if the sway plastic connector is cracked so I don't follow this and I know I,am not a merchanic but as I said one replacement your saying is the metal bolt thingy but the piece that broke is the plastic piece connector ? so so confused ?? darn thanks for any time you take to explain it to me ? Rich
cjackg
New member
Look back at post #26 in this thread and it should be crystal clear what is involved!
Biosafena
New member
Just broke another (my third) tie rod end today. This one broke at about 15 mph while making a u-turn while riding 2-up. I have just one question on Rabtech's setup with NAPA parts: Will this work on a 2012 RT? There was so much talk about 12's and 13's that I lost track of what is setup was for. Thanks!
Sent from the corner of walk and don't walk...
Sent from the corner of walk and don't walk...
GRIPMAN
New member
Tire rod ends
Are all tie rods the same length? if not, then please give me the length you used or the item number
Thanks
JJ
Here is the fix.. just add all-thread and locktite.....
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Are all tie rods the same length? if not, then please give me the length you used or the item number
Thanks
JJ
mcaccamise
New member
Just lay your old heim next to the new heim ends and keep the center of the bolt holes (center point) the same and then fill in the center with a grade eight bolt cutting off the head add thread locker and screw them togher keeping the length the same.
Mike
Mike
wyliec
New member
Item number is in post #69.
Bob Denman
New member
NAPA # 732-1128... Thanks Rab! :thumbup:
pellcitypete
New member
FIX
Great minds solve complex problems I am making my 2 in advance thanks:thumbup:Great minds solve what engineers can't I think I will make a couple iIcac
Just completed the cherohola skyway and was on the last few turns and the swaybar linkage broke. I have however come up with a bulletproof solution. I will post it as soon as I get some internet going at the cabin. It will solve all the broken swaybar issues.
Ill go ahead and tell yall what to buy to permanently fix. Get two 5/16 fine thread tie rod ends and a grade 8 bolt with enough thread to cut off and join the two tie rods together Now butt them together and it will be the exact length as the plastic junk that comes on the spyder....
Ill post pictures later.....
I have no internet yet at the cabin in tellico plains. I am buying a verizon myfi and hopefully ill be online shortly.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
rabtech
New member
Remember just but the two parts together. If you do this just make sure you change both sides. It is irrelevant how long it is as long as u change both and they match.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Magdave
New member
Based on my years of Corvette experience and the different bars on them the biggest improvement came from the bushings not the bars. Urethane bushings have stiffened them up because they prevent the bars from slipping in the bushings because they hold it stiffer. Wouldn't improved bushings partially eliminate the issues with out replacing the bars?
rabtech
New member
There is a theory that it may be that we tighten the bolt that holds the bushing to tight. And this makes the bar pinch and when you hit a sharp bump and have the bar under a bit of stress it snaps them. I know I tighten them fairly tight. However I always make sure it will move.
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
Sent from my Galaxy S3. I may have made a spelling error or may have some grammer issues. My fingers are way to big to type on this tiny screen!
BajaRon
Well-known member
If you are doing this modification you need to be careful. There is more to it than just putting together 2 Rod Ends with some All Thread Rod and a little Lock Tite.
Take a look at this picture. You will notice that the ball ends are not the same. The OEM balls are extended and measure .710" outside to outside. The replacement NAPA part uses a standard ball which measures .438". That leaves you short .272" or just over 1/4". This is a very important 1/4".
The reason our OEM Heim balls are extended is to increase the amount of deflection or 'Misalignment' they can handle (around 55/60 degrees). The NAPA, and similar rod ends, will provide only 12-14 degrees. Though we probably don't need 60 degrees, we certainly do need more than 14 degrees.
You can add washers or spacers to get back the missing 1/4". But if the washer/spacer exceeds the diameter of the extended portion of the OEM ball, you will not increase the misalignment capabilities of the Heim joint because contact with the washers will then be the limiting factor.
If you do not provide original spacing and do it correctly, you will very likely run out of 'angle' clearance and get contact between the link and the mounting bracket, mounting bolts or sway bar.
An added issue comes into play with the 2013 Spyder. On the 2013's the link is mounted in-between 2 channel pieces with a through bolt. The OEM extended ball fits snugly in the channel. But with a standard ball you're going to get slop and the link will be free to slide back and forth on the mounting bolt inside the channel. I don't know exactly what will happen here because I have not tried it. But rest assured, it won't be good.
Again, you can add washers or spacers but it is important that they do not exceed 1/2" OD to maintain misalignment angle capabilities.
I am in the process of making 50 sets of these Heim joint links which should be ready to ship out next week. I've found a supplier that has a great product that is over twice as strong as the NAPA part (7,600 lbs. static vs. 3,200 lbs. static). Not that I think the NAPA parts are not strong enough (we don't really know how strong the OEM parts are), it's just that I want to be sure these replacement links will last.
It is my opinion that it is dynamic loading that is breaking these links, not static loading. (dynamic load capability is usually 70-80% of static load rating).
The link sets I am making will include everything needed to get the correct spacing and maintain the higher misalignment capabilities that are needed on our Spyders. I don't have an exact price yet but it will be in the range of what the Napa parts cost.
Take a look at this picture. You will notice that the ball ends are not the same. The OEM balls are extended and measure .710" outside to outside. The replacement NAPA part uses a standard ball which measures .438". That leaves you short .272" or just over 1/4". This is a very important 1/4".
The reason our OEM Heim balls are extended is to increase the amount of deflection or 'Misalignment' they can handle (around 55/60 degrees). The NAPA, and similar rod ends, will provide only 12-14 degrees. Though we probably don't need 60 degrees, we certainly do need more than 14 degrees.
You can add washers or spacers to get back the missing 1/4". But if the washer/spacer exceeds the diameter of the extended portion of the OEM ball, you will not increase the misalignment capabilities of the Heim joint because contact with the washers will then be the limiting factor.
If you do not provide original spacing and do it correctly, you will very likely run out of 'angle' clearance and get contact between the link and the mounting bracket, mounting bolts or sway bar.
An added issue comes into play with the 2013 Spyder. On the 2013's the link is mounted in-between 2 channel pieces with a through bolt. The OEM extended ball fits snugly in the channel. But with a standard ball you're going to get slop and the link will be free to slide back and forth on the mounting bolt inside the channel. I don't know exactly what will happen here because I have not tried it. But rest assured, it won't be good.
Again, you can add washers or spacers but it is important that they do not exceed 1/2" OD to maintain misalignment angle capabilities.
I am in the process of making 50 sets of these Heim joint links which should be ready to ship out next week. I've found a supplier that has a great product that is over twice as strong as the NAPA part (7,600 lbs. static vs. 3,200 lbs. static). Not that I think the NAPA parts are not strong enough (we don't really know how strong the OEM parts are), it's just that I want to be sure these replacement links will last.
It is my opinion that it is dynamic loading that is breaking these links, not static loading. (dynamic load capability is usually 70-80% of static load rating).
The link sets I am making will include everything needed to get the correct spacing and maintain the higher misalignment capabilities that are needed on our Spyders. I don't have an exact price yet but it will be in the range of what the Napa parts cost.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
The links are all the same, from the 1st Spyder to the one hitting the show room today. The difference is not in the link, the difference is in the quality. Seems that this 2013's may have some bad ones.
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