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an oil question--who is right

jat4736

Member
So, I was having a discussion with a guy about checking my oil. (note: this guy is the type that thinks he knows everything LOL)

Now, I have been told that you should check it when it is warm. He said that wasnt right, you dont check when it is warm.

I looked in the book and it said "engine already at normal operating temperature" when you are going to check the oil. Soooo, do I drive it first then check when done---do I check it before I go out for a ride---do I drive it till the oil light come on (that was added for humor, I am not a dumb female LOL).

Thanks
 
So, I was having a discussion with a guy about checking my oil. (note: this guy is the type that thinks he knows everything LOL)

Now, I have been told that you should check it when it is warm. He said that wasnt right, you dont check when it is warm.

I looked in the book and it said "engine already at normal operating temperature" when you are going to check the oil. Soooo, do I drive it first then check when done---do I check it before I go out for a ride---do I drive it till the oil light come on (that was added for humor, I am not a dumb female LOL).

Thanks

This is an easy answer... ignore your friend and follow the manual. Not really sure why this is being asked when the manual clearly describes the process. :lecturef_smilie:
 
So, I was having a discussion with a guy about checking my oil. (note: this guy is the type that thinks he knows everything LOL)

Now, I have been told that you should check it when it is warm. He said that wasnt right, you dont check when it is warm.

I looked in the book and it said "engine already at normal operating temperature" when you are going to check the oil. Soooo, do I drive it first then check when done---do I check it before I go out for a ride---do I drive it till the oil light come on (that was added for humor, I am not a dumb female LOL).

Thanks

The guy is wrong, but it sounds like he's ok with that. All you need to remember is to check the oil after the Spyder has been operated long enough for it to warm up. And don't wait too long after you shut it off (within a few minutes).

It's not so much that the oil needs to be warm (unless you're talking automatic transmission fluid) because motor oil does not expand that much. The more important aspect is that you want the engine oil to be in its operational condition. In other words, all levels have reached their operating condition. All filters full, dry sump savaging at normal level, etc. This is the only way to get an accurate fill level reading, especially on a dry sump system like the Spyder Rotax engine uses.

Hope that clears it up! :roflblack:
 
WHEN TO CHECK

If you do this you will always be ready to ride in a MOMENTS NOTICE ......ALWAYS check it right after you finish your ride and park it.....That way it's always ready.....and you KNOW the oil level is correct.......If you make this a must do thing ...like getting dressed etc.:roflblack: :2excited: :yikes: ....It will be a No-brainer IMHO, Mike :thumbup: :agree:
 
This is an easy answer... ignore your friend and follow the manual. Not really sure why this is being asked when the manual clearly describes the process. :lecturef_smilie:

I ask this question because he wouldnt believe the manual (he doesnt change oil in cars till they are atleast 4-5,ooo miles pass the last oil change) and more evidence in my favor--more people that agree with me--to prove my point,less he can argue with me when I do what I believe is right. After all "I am just a female" what do I know. LOL

Never fear, I do what is right for my ride.
 
I ask this question because he wouldnt believe the manual (he doesnt change oil in cars till they are atleast 4-5,ooo miles pass the last oil change) and more evidence in my favor--more people that agree with me--to prove my point,less he can argue with me when I do what I believe is right. After all "I am just a female" what do I know. LOL

Never fear, I do what is right for my ride.

When you are right that is all the confirmation you need...

Convincing him he is wrong is the wrong way to go about it. Instead, just be confident and satisfied that you know the truth. Don't say a word, it will drive him crazy! :thumbup:
 
...(that was added for humor, I am not a dumb femalde LOL)

Your friend may not be smart in his aproach to checking oil, but I'm surprised this comment didn't get you more flack than it has. Careful - it's about checking oil, not alienating a good, and very much appreciated portion of the Spyder crowd.
 
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I ask this question because he wouldnt believe the manual (he doesnt change oil in cars till they are atleast 4-5,ooo miles pass the last oil change) and more evidence in my favor--more people that agree with me--to prove my point,less he can argue with me when I do what I believe is right. After all "I am just a female" what do I know. LOL

Never fear, I do what is right for my ride.

Welcome to the world of intelligent women dealing with 'good 'ol boys.' Many times had guys try to impress me with how little they know. :sour:

Glad you know better, and don't ever let him touch your Spyder.

There are many supportive, knowledgeable people on SpyderLovers who will never steer you wrong.
 
I ask this question because he wouldnt believe the manual (he doesnt change oil in cars till they are atleast 4-5,ooo miles pass the last oil change) and more evidence in my favor--more people that agree with me--to prove my point,less he can argue with me when I do what I believe is right. After all "I am just a female" what do I know. LOL

Never fear, I do what is right for my ride.

I am sure you do. You sound like you can stand on your own two-feet and make the right decisions. Trying to argue with someone whose testosterone is at full-level it fruitless. Just make sure you or anyone you know does not buy a used vehicle from the guy.:roflblack:

As you already know; checking your oil often; and changing it on schedule is one of the least expensive maintenance items one can do for the long-term of their vehicles.
 
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The book or. Manual

99.99% of the time the book or the manual will always be right..01 % of the time it will be wrong. But 50% of the time trying to argue with the village I'd 10 t error will be fruitless IMO
 
Your friend may not be smart in his aproach to checking oil, but I'm surprised this comment didn't get you more flack than it has. Careful - it's about checking oil, not alienating a good, and very much appreciated portion of the Spyder crowd.

I just took that to mean that the OP is a female and not dumb.

On second thought, you may be right and, if you are, the OP may want to re-think that comment.
 
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Then there was the "expert" a couple years back. "the first thing you do when changing oil on a Spyder is to make sure the kickstand is on solid ground".
Oldmanzues
 
so..!!

This is the thing..your cold engine will have the oil all settled in all the wrong places. Once you run the engine up to operating temp. the oil will be in all the nooks and crannies it's supposed to be in and you will get a true reading. So do like blueknight911 and myself and check your oil when you get in from a long ryde. That way your ready to go and you can tell the friend you already checked your oil..!! :thumbup:
 
The guy is wrong, but it sounds like he's ok with that. All you need to remember is to check the oil after the Spyder has been operated long enough for it to warm up. And don't wait too long after you shut it off (within a few minutes).

It's not so much that the oil needs to be warm (unless you're talking automatic transmission fluid) because motor oil does not expand that much. The more important aspect is that you want the engine oil to be in its operational condition. In other words, all levels have reached their operating condition. All filters full, dry sump savaging at normal level, etc. This is the only way to get an accurate fill level reading, especially on a dry sump system like the Spyder Rotax engine uses.

Hope that clears it up! :roflblack:

Ron is 100% correct. The oil change procedure is roughly the same as all dry sump motorcycle engines. IE: Honda XR650L or a KTM 640 Adventure, etc. It is totally different than a wet sump automotive system.
 
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