• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

RS-S (SE5) HID PROBLEMS

I have a 2011 RS SE5 and I installed a set of Zenon Depot HID lights without the provided relays and they work great. No issues!:yes::yes::yes:I do not have the optional fog lights. Lamont has a post showing pictures doing the install and his cut up fingers from them Darn metal clips holding the lamps in place.:yikes:
 
I have a 2011 RS SE5 and I installed a set of Zenon Depot HID lights without the provided relays and they work great. No issues!:yes::yes::yes:I do not have the optional fog lights. Lamont has a post showing pictures doing the install and his cut up fingers from them Darn metal clips holding the lamps in place.:yikes:

Thanks Frank :thumbup:. I've been communicating with a few vendors/installers of the various HID conversion kits & I'm starting to believe this might NOT be an issue for 2011-2012 SE5 RS-S :spyder2: owners.. (Which is why I asked folks for their year)

This might just be isolated to 2010 & older RS SE5's....

Hopefully we get more input from others to support or debunk this.
 
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Did you have a relay to draw power directly from the battery or where you using the stock harness to get the power?

I had problems with the xenondepot volt kit on my sm5 RS. Wouldn't start first crank. To much voltage draw would kill the motor every time as the lights lit. Was told I needed the lower current draw balasts.
I went back to the stock halogens.....


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Solution to the Problem.....

Ok folks.... Here's my pay it forward contribution.. I have a 2011 RSS (SE5). I purchased an HID kit from ebay that included (2) 35w Canbus Pro Ballasts, & a pair of H7 6000k Bulbs. Paid about $90, Here's the Ebay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161015560514?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I also needed to purchase a pair of metal H7 retainer clips for about $15, to mount the bulbs
Ebay Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290851252962?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Long story short, After installing the above, My dash lit up like a xmas tree & engine cut off on my first start. When it did finally start & stay on, the engine idled about 400 RPM's too fast. Pulled everything out, went back to stock & took everything in this post into consideration.

I did some research & ordered an HID single beam wiring harness with a 10 second Delay Relay & capacitor from this online seller: http://www.retro-solutions.net/

The total price for the custom harness with time delay relay & capacitor was about $60. They sell the 10 second delay relay separately on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400461997727?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Got everything hooked up & everything works PERFECTLY.. :thumbup: If your interested in ordering the same custom harness, I highly recommend these guys. The harness was made perfectly & very high quality. I took an image I found online & modified it to show how things need to be installed & also included the lengths of each wire in order for it to work for a Spyder.

yr0y.jpg




I chose these lengths to give me enough slack to install the ballasts on the back of the Frunk. Worked out perfect for me.
 
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