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BajaRon anti-sway bar install

JasonAM said:
So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?
Click to expand...

You should fix your Frunk as you will want the lid open whether or not you decide to remove the Frunk. Be careful with advise from RT owners. Their install is similar in some ways but not the same in regards to how the Frunk portion of the process is handled.

The RT Frunk has similarities with the RS Frunk but there are very important differences as well. Stick to the instructions you received to install this bar on your RS model Spyder.
 
RSS Ron Bar

Well i finally ordered my sway bar cant waite for it to come and experience the more stable ride,ill be mounting it without removing the frunk should be a breeze with the info gained here Thanks Ron.
Mike
 
I am so going to get me one of them sway bars for my new baby , might ride her a bit first though , so I can feel the difference .
 
That's a good idea, Mike! :thumbup: Another option that you can try, is to pick up a set of shocks off of an RT model; preferably a 2011 or later... They'll stiffen up the front end a bit also for you. :2thumbs: (Should you feel the need... ;))
 
Let's get back to the trunk. What is the problem? If the cable is still attached and intact, it can be accessed (sometimes with difficulty) through the left side by reaching inside the body panels. Pull on it to openb the trunk. If the key just won't turn readily, something is probably pushing against the trunk lid. Have someone push down hard at the latch, or bang it with their hand repeatedly, while you turn the key. The usual culprits are too much junk in the trun,k or weatherstrip or a trunk liner that has pulled off (or was improperly installed) and is in between the lid and the flange. Easily fixed once you get it open. It could also be, or be aggravated by, improper latch adjustment and/or inadequate lube on the latch and post. If the key has no resistance when turned, the cable has likely come loose or is broken. Sometimes you can sneak between the lid and the body with a long screwdriver to push the catch, or from the other side with a coat hanger to snag it and pop it loose. If worst comes to worst, see your dealer.
 
JasonAM said:
So before I get into this project does anyony think I will encounter problems due to my frunk not being opened? Once I remove the 2 bottom bolts, will i be able to pry the frunk forward while the frunk lid is closed?
Click to expand...

Per the advice of Spyderpops, Dad and I also removed the two bolts at the back of the panel where the fog lights go. It gave us more play in pushing the frunk forward because the tupperware wasn't as restricted in its movement.
 
FaranH said:
Per the advice of Spyderpops, Dad and I also removed the two bolts at the back of the panel where the fog lights go. It gave us more play in pushing the frunk forward because the tupperware wasn't as restricted in its movement.
Click to expand...

:thumbup: I am sure that is the reason for removing those two bolts, it allows a little more play in the frunk while it is being pulled out a little. I also loosened the two top bolts just a little and that seemed to free up the movement a little more. It was cool in my garage and I didn't want to take any chances on things being brittle. :gaah:It would be my luck to pry on it and something snap!!
 
I will need to take a look at these suggestions. I may need to alter my instructions a bit. There is always a better way! Thanks! :thumbup:
 
I definitely have confidence in my ability to do the job. I was just iffy bout my prob with the frunk being stuck closed . I jacked it up and got under it after removing the scuff plate I noticed there really isn't much to it, but I am going to take Ron's advice and wait to get my frunk fixed. Its a 2012 still under warranty guess I'll wait to take it in. I will try n find the forum thread about manually opening the frunk
 
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2012 RSS Ron Bar install.

Well guys i received my bar today and boy what a difference in appearence and size a good quality piece it took me about an hour and a half to install and align properly being the bar was longer than the original.
It was an easy install even without removeing the frunk with the prying out about an inch the key is to center the bar so the links have equal play on both sides for movement.
I installed the bar attaching it by the clamps and also the links and then centered it for about 1/4" play turning the links for center,once completed i then tightened the attached clamps an tightened all hardware.
It was to late to go for a ride so tomorrow i wll take a maiden ride cant waite im sure she will handle like on rails will report back after the ride tomorrow.
Mike
 
Ok what year and model are we working on and what size is the sway bar that is being installed I just got an 2012 RSS sway bar its 15.88 mm sway bar I have a 2013'STS iam putting the RSS bar on is there a bigger bar than this on how big is the barjon bare
 
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Its not so much the size of the bar but the tincel strenth of the steel he uses to make his bar far more superior than the stock sway bar.
Looking at my stock 2012 RSS sway bar compared to the Ron bar doesent appear to be much diference in diameter though the length and angle seems to be changed to give it better flex abilitys and as many on here have said it makes all the diference in ride and control.
Mike
 
spyderman526 said:
Ok what year and model are we working on and what size is the sway bar that is being installed I just got an 2012 RSS sway bar its 15.88 mm sway bar I have a 2013'STS iam putting the RSS bar on is there a bigger bar than this on how big is the barjon bare
Click to expand...

I am a bit confused here. The OEM pre-2013 RSS sway bar is roughly 13 mm in diameter. My RS model custom sway bar is 14.3 mm in diameter (with a higher spring rate steel).

The 2013 RSS sway bar is 15.85 mm in diameter (there will be slight variations). The 2013 sway bars are completely different and are not interchangeable with earlier models.

So my question is, are you saying your 2012 RSS came with an OEM sway bar of 15.88 mm? Or are you saying you purchased a 2013 RSS sway bar and plan to install it on your 2012 RSS?
 
dtkennney said:
I am not an rt owner yet,but why does't the manufacturer put a better sway bar on the trike.
Click to expand...

This sway bar is call a modification. For some, the sway bar is fine as it is, but some like to improve it so they modify it.

Same with cars... you buy a car with your options, but some OEM options are not your preference so you modify it.

Preference...
 
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