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Rough Idle, Check Engine then Limp Mode after Storage

nhoj

nhoj

Member
Took the RT out of storage yesterday. Installed the battery, it started quickly. Bit of a rough idle at first but it smoothed out quickly and seemed fine.

After it warmed up a bit the idle became very rough, then the check engine light came on and soon Limp Home mode and it would not idle at all without help.

Shut it off, waited 15 minutes bit but the same result.

Took it out for a ride hoping it would clear but after a couple of minutes Limp Mode again.

Disconnected the battery for an hour then tried it again but same result...rough idle, check engine then Limp Mode.

Read the codes: P2279 and P0106 which both hint at air leaks and manifold pressure issues.

The RT ran flawlessly last season (8000Km, 5000mi). Rode right into December and it was running fine the day it went into storage. Changed the oil and ran it for a couple of hours then. Removed the battery and kept it charged over the winter.

Thoughts or suggestions.
Thanks
 
Did you put stabilizer in the fuel? Last fall I had untreated hi-test 93 octane fuel go bad in my BMW 1150RT in less than 2 months. Machine would not start in my case at all, fresh fuel and she ran like a top as usual.
 
Could be bad gas but that doesn't normally cause Limp Mode. This may sound funny but I would check the vacuum hoses and wiring. It's a long shot but possible mice may have decided to winter over in your Spyder and made a meal out of the hoses and wiring. I'd be making an appointment at the shop though.
 
I agree about the fuel stabilizer and possible bad gas, as well as the possibility of water in the fuel from condensation if the tank wasn't fully topped off, or from absorbtion due to ethanol fuels. Your fault codes seem to point in another direction, though.

P0106 = Manifold Absolute Pressure circuit range/performance...indicating a problem with the MAP sensor not reading as expected
P2279 = Intake Air System Leak...normally indicating a cracked manifold or a gasket leak

I would look at a couple of possibilities. First would be checking the air intake and airbox for a mouse nest. A blocked intake could cause both these faults. Second, I would look carfully for cracked or chewed vacuum hoses. Both these problems indicate improper intake pressure/vacuum...and mice are typical offenders wen it happens over the winter, with the ravages of temperature change on previously heated rubber hoses running close behind. I'd also add some Marine Stabil or Seafoam and some fresh gas. It can't hurt.
 
Several good suggestions here, could be any one of them. I have been a pretty fair backyard mechanic most of my life and was a field service engineer for over 10 years. One thing I learned, sometimes the hard way....

Check the easy simple things first.
 
Going to check the easy things first

Thanks for the suggestions.

The gas was stabilized before we put it away. So we will pull off the panels and check for obstructions, leaks and cracked hoses.

If that doesn't reveal anything its off to the dealer next week. If you are going to have these type of problems its a good thing they happen at the beginning of our riding season.

Thanks again. Will report back with the solution.
 
Vacuum lines

My friend had a problem with his RT recently it would idle rough, check engine light would come, would not downshift automatically. The vacuum lines were broken due to heat exposure, yours probably as Scotty said, could be a mouse has chewed into to them while yours was in storage, a possibility. After my friends vacuum lines were replaced it ran fine. If your spyder is SE5 shift, the paddle shifter works off of vacuum. Try this, ride your spyder and see if it downshifts automatically when coming to a stop, if it doesn't and stalls out it will probably be the vacuum lines. Just trying to help you troubleshoot your problems, I hope you get this figured out soon.
 
NancysToy said:
I agree about the fuel stabilizer and possible bad gas, as well as the possibility of water in the fuel from condensation if the tank wasn't fully topped off, or from absorbtion due to ethanol fuels. Your fault codes seem to point in another direction, though.

P0106 = Manifold Absolute Pressure circuit range/performance...indicating a problem with the MAP sensor not reading as expected
P2279 = Intake Air System Leak...normally indicating a cracked manifold or a gasket leak

I would look at a couple of possibilities. First would be checking the air intake and airbox for a mouse nest. A blocked intake could cause both these faults. Second, I would look carfully for cracked or chewed vacuum hoses. Both these problems indicate improper intake pressure/vacuum...and mice are typical offenders wen it happens over the winter, with the ravages of temperature change on previously heated rubber hoses running close behind. I'd also add some Marine Stabil or Seafoam and some fresh gas. It can't hurt.
Click to expand...

Any chance this could be a classic "frozen-block" problem due to low coolant/antifreeze? I certainly hope not for this person's sake.

Just wondering how much it would take to freeze these motors to cause damage like a cracked-block and etc.
 
nhoj said:
Thanks for the suggestions.

The gas was stabilized before we put it away. So we will pull off the panels and check for obstructions, leaks and cracked hoses.

If that doesn't reveal anything its off to the dealer next week. If you are going to have these type of problems its a good thing they happen at the beginning of our riding season.

Thanks again. Will report back with the solution.
Click to expand...

Even with stabilized fuel, moisture can collect in the gas tank from condensation if the tank is not full. Ethanol can also cause phase separation if there is insufficient stabilizer or excessive moisture. Don't automatically discount the possibility just because you stabilized before storage. Never assume anything!
 
SOLVED ==>Rough Idle, Check Engine then Limp Mode after Storage

Well it was a cracked vacuum hose (see pics below). No critters, nests, no "chewing" and no bad fuel. The P2279 and P0106 codes were correct.

On the left side under the acoustic panel there are two small vacuum hoses (3.5" long) that run to the Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (M.A.P.S.). The one that is on the front of the M.A.P.S. adapter was cracked right through at its 90 degree bend. The one that is on the rear of the adapter was cracked too but not right through.

I replaced the hoses with 4" pieces of vacuum hose and the RT ran better than it did in the fall. After idling rough at first start it settled down to a smooth 1400 RPM. No check engine and no LIMP Mode, Yea...my wife is happy again. :) A test ride just confirmed this.

I can't see how this will not be a perpetual problem. The forward hose is quite near the forward cylinder. It will dry out from the heat, crack and probably split again. We're going to carry two 4" pieces of vacuum hose in the ever growing spares kit. Now that I know where to look its a 30 minute job to replace them (if the mirror cooperates!!)

Many thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions.
John

cracked_hose1.jpgcracked_hose.jpg
 
Glad to hear you found the problem. Thanks for sharing. That hose looks pretty bad for being less than 2 years old, perhaps defective?
 
Good news

Glad to hear you got the problem solved. My earlier comment I made on your post of my friend's RT is also a 2011. His vacuum hoses did split and break due to heat.
 
nhoj said:
Well it was a cracked vacuum hose (see pics below). No critters, nests, no "chewing" and no bad fuel. The P2279 and P0106 codes were correct.

On the left side under the acoustic panel there are two small vacuum hoses (3.5" long) that run to the Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (M.A.P.S.). The one that is on the front of the M.A.P.S. adapter was cracked right through at its 90 degree bend. The one that is on the rear of the adapter was cracked too but not right through.

I replaced the hoses with 4" pieces of vacuum hose and the RT ran better than it did in the fall. After idling rough at first start it settled down to a smooth 1400 RPM. No check engine and no LIMP Mode, Yea...my wife is happy again. :) A test ride just confirmed this.

I can't see how this will not be a perpetual problem. The forward hose is quite near the forward cylinder. It will dry out from the heat, crack and probably split again. We're going to carry two 4" pieces of vacuum hose in the ever growing spares kit. Now that I know where to look its a 30 minute job to replace them (if the mirror cooperates!!)

Many thanks to everyone for their tips and suggestions.
John

View attachment 65621View attachment 65622
Click to expand...
Reinforced hose are better replacement just my opinion:yes::yes::yes:
 
Just a follow up

Marilyn called the Dealer (Uxbridge MotorSports) today and explained the situation They are ordering the two hoses under Warranty and letting us install them.

The BRP part number is: 420960115 Hose, Sensor and is priced at $11.99 ea.

Interesting in that I bought 2 ft. of the correct Inside Diameter Vacuum hose from NAPA for 97 cents (including tax). That's enough for 6 of my 4 inch spares.

John
 
I just picked up my buddy's 2010 RT and I think it has a broken vacuum hose too... I'm just taking it to the dealer and dropping it off and picking mine up.

John
 
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