Oil for spyder

[robertv]

Found an alternative oil to BRP

Penrite MC-4ST 5W-50 FOUR STROKE
Pack Sizes: 1 Litre, 4 Litre, 20 Litre, 205 Litre
Fully synthetic, high performance grade for use where SAE 5W-40 oils are specified. Uses a special combination of synthetic base oils and additives to prevent clutch slip.
Key Specifications: API SN/CF, ACEA A3/B3, JASO MA

This is what Penrite recommend for our spyders

 

[Chupaca]

War..I see..!!

I see why it was mentioned "Oil wars". I've said it before and will mention it again, your oils in these spyders run through engine, clutch and transmission. Cars run the oils only through the engine. Stick with oils designed for motorcycle engines weather regular semi synthetic or full synthetic and your bike will keep you on the road for a long time. Skimp on farkels not on life bloods...:lecturef_smilie:

 

[BajaRon]

Wow! Talk about going back to the archives! :yikes:

 

[Captain Fin]

My my my

Oil war!!! War sucks. Why can't we all just be friends.

 

[Trickie Dick]

Wow! Talk about going back to the archives! :yikes:

My thoughts exactly. I didn't want to comment for fear of starting ANOTHER oil war. I'm worn out from the last 6:yikes:

 

[serf]

Castrol power rs 4t 5w40 full synthetic. Jaso ma2 rated and a bit cheaper than amsoil.

 

[boborgera]

Castrol power rs 4t 5w40 full synthetic. Jaso ma2 rated and a bit cheaper than amsoil.

Only if you use it in conjunction with 93 octane.

:roflblack:

 

[BajaRon]

Castrol power rs 4t 5w40 full synthetic. Jaso ma2 rated and a bit cheaper than amsoil.

Not to start any new war, just to set the record straight.

Castrol Power RS 4T 5w-40 is a Group III, Mineral Based oil according to their MSDS information. It can be called 'Full Synthetic' only in the USA because of a court case allowing this.

It is interesting that nowhere else in the world is a Group III, Mineral Based oil allowed to be called 'Full Synthetic'. To be a true Synthetic oil, the oil must use Group IV (Ester based) oil stock.

So, you have doctored (additives) in a lesser Group III Mineral Based oil such as Castrol to 'fortify' the product. And you have oil that is engineered from the refinery (Group IV, Ester Based) which needs little or no additives because it is engineered to be stable at the molecular level.

Additives break down, some very quickly, while an engineered oil stock is inherently extremely stable and resists breakdown because of the molecular structure of the oil.

I am not saying that this Castrol oil is not good. But it bothers me that they use legal mumbo-jumbo and slight of hand when they call their product 'Synthetic', which in reality, it is not. Believe me, if they were using Group IV base they would be sure to let you know.

I just wish Castrol and other companies that produce these Group III oils were more forthright in their advertising so the customer would actually know what they are getting. Instead, they use vague language and do their best to hide the fact that they are not using a higher quality, more expensive synthetic base oil.

Amsoil, and other true Group IV Ester based oils tend to be more expensive because the base stock is a more expensive product. There really is a significant difference between mineral based oils with additives and true Ester based products.

 

[DrewNJ]

Ahh..another great oil debate thread...

Even though I have no idea who makes the BRP oil (heard rumors about Castrol, but that's another debate) it's what I'm staying with.

We have logged hundreds and hundreds of hours on multiple pretty heavily modified supercharged rotax 4tec motors in our Sea-doo and conversion skis. These skis run over 8k rpm's for about 90% of their lives with only seasonal oil changes....Never an oil related failure. All using the off the shelf oil change kits. I'm sure this will work perfectly fine in my totally stock spyder...

Is there a better oil? I'm sure there is....but this is what works for us. The possibility of finding an oil that DOESN'T work well for us is a bigger problem that FAR offsets ANY benefit of an oil that is "better" than the BRP oil. Personally, it's just not worth the "experiment". The oil change kits are only about $60 so the expense is minimal anyway. Just my $.02....

 

[BajaRon]

Ahh..another great oil debate thread...

Even though I have no idea who makes the BRP oil (heard rumors about Castrol, but that's another debate) it's what I'm staying with.

We have logged hundreds and hundreds of hours on multiple pretty heavily modified supercharged rotax 4tec motors in our Sea-doo and conversion skis. These skis run over 8k rpm's for about 90% of their lives with only seasonal oil changes....Never an oil related failure. All using the off the shelf oil change kits. I'm sure this will work perfectly fine in my totally stock spyder...

Is there a better oil? I'm sure there is....but this is what works for us. The possibility of finding an oil that DOESN'T work well for us is a bigger problem that FAR offsets ANY benefit of an oil that is "better" than the BRP oil. Personally, it's just not worth the "experiment". The oil change kits are only about $60 so the expense is minimal anyway. Just my $.02....

If you change your oil faithfully at shorter intervals I'm sure Castrol will do fine. You might try getting the oil tested and see what you actually have near the end of the cycle.

I like the added advantage of being able to go 6k between oil changes (something that a Sea-Doo doesn't encounter often). Makes my true synthetic actually less expensive than the OEM product, not to mention less down time. I don't have to get an oil change during an extended trip which is also a plus for me.

I've had Amsoil tested at 6K and it was still well within spec. I don't think Amsoil is 'Experimental' because it's got a lot of data and testing behind it including my own. Same goes for other true synthetic oils.

Everyone has their own parameters and that is as it should be. As long as the facts are understood, customers can make an informed decision as to what products will fulfill their requirements.

Is a true synthetic oil overkill in the Spyder? Maybe. Is it a superior lubricant? Most assuredly.

 

[serf]

Only if you use it in conjunction with 93 octane.

:roflblack:

I need some of that there racing fuel they'll have for the drag strip.

 

[serf]

If you change your oil faithfully at shorter intervals I'm sure Castrol will do fine. You might try getting the oil tested and see what you actually have near the end of the cycle.

I like the added advantage of being able to go 6k between oil changes (something that a Sea-Doo doesn't encounter often). Makes my true synthetic actually less expensive than the OEM product, not to mention less down time. I don't have to get an oil change during an extended trip which is also a plus for me.

I've had Amsoil tested at 6K and it was still well within spec. I don't think Amsoil is 'Experimental' because it's got a lot of data and testing behind it including my own. Same goes for other true synthetic oils.

Everyone has their own parameters and that is as it should be. As long as the facts are understood, customers can make an informed decision as to what products will fulfill their requirements.

Is a true synthetic oil overkill in the Spyder? Maybe. Is it a superior lubricant? Most assuredly.

I agree amsoil is better stuff, but castrol (doctored dyno) works in a pinch and is more readily available (most major chains) than amsoil. Brp summer blend is synthetic blend, so castrol and amsoil should be an upgrade.

 

[BajaRon]

I agree amsoil is better stuff, but castrol (doctored dyno) works in a pinch and is more readily available (most major chains) than amsoil. Brp summer blend is synthetic blend, so castrol and amsoil should be an upgrade.

It's a good bet that BRP is selling Castrol since their product is delivered on Castrol pallets and the claimed viscosity (since they are not marked on the BRP containers) and description corresponds to the Castrol product.