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ANTI-SWAY BAR

For me, I looked it over carefully and found removing the trunk to be the easiest way to go about the project. :2thumbs:

No jacking or lifting necessary. Interestingly enough, I discovered one of the two lower frunk mounting bolts was missing. :yikes:

Major props to Baja Ron for a quality product!!!! :yes:
 
BajaRon installed his new anti-sway bar on my 2011 RS-S and No more hard leaning in the turns, No more getting pushed around when passing a large trucks on the highway, and it makes my Spyder easyer to ride over all. Instead of spending $800.00 to $1,300.00 for shocks the BajaRon anti-sway bar is under $200.00 and it works.

Mike

I have my stock shocks set at 5 for handling but it makes for a very bumpy ride. Would adding the sway bar allow me to back the shocks off to 4 and still have the stability but with a little softer ride?
 
I have my stock shocks set at 5 for handling but it makes for a very bumpy ride. Would adding the sway bar allow me to back the shocks off to 4 and still have the stability but with a little softer ride?

With the sway bar installed you should be able to drop your shock springs down 1 or 2 notches and recover a smoother ride. It will also return the suspension to the proper ride height.
 
We sure talk alot about ron

You need to just get one of his swaybars, they are great , so easy to instill on a RT , my wife could do it. REALLY.Only 6 body screws,and 6 bolts on the swaybay,And wow what a safer ride ,no being tossed around by the wind ,big trucks, ect, like going from a suv to a porsche,now think about that, sometimes it felt very top heave in the corners, but now its like a porsche on rails,im sure if you dont like the way it rides after installed , on of the RT owners will buy it from you in heart beat.Ride on ron
 

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I have my stock shocks set at 5 for handling but it makes for a very bumpy ride. Would adding the sway bar allow me to back the shocks off to 4 and still have the stability but with a little softer ride?

I ride mostly two up so I left the setting at 5. All I can say try setting 4, but before doing that find a road with some hard turns and run it at 5. Then set your shocks to 4 and rerun the same section of road. I hope this helps.

Mike
 
Work wonders on handling. .!!

I installed mine in under an hour removing the frunk. I find it more comfortable to work better for centering and a good chance to grease the front end.
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Removing the Frunk on an RS isn't all that difficult and really does afford an easier access to both the sway bar install and greasing the A-Arms. It looks much more intimidating that it really is.

Ron, can you explain the difference between your bar and the stock bar? What is it about yours that makes such a huge difference in the handling?
 
Ron, can you explain the difference between your bar and the stock bar? What is it about yours that makes such a huge difference in the handling?

Wow! Not sure how I missed this post but they say; 'Better late than never!'. (Not sure that's always true)

The sway bar is simply a spring. Springs come in all different shapes and sizes, depending on the purpose. In my opinion, the stock sway bar is way too weak. It simply cannot handle the forces imposed on it.

There are several ways to make a sway bar stronger. Size, dimensions and steel compound are the major factors.

For normal driving, optimum handling means all 3 tires will lose traction at the same time. To get this you'd need to push your Spyder to the extreme limit which very few will ever do. But equal traction (front to back) in turns gives you maximum performance whether or not you ever brake a wheel loose. I know it sounds scary to have all 3 wheels brake loose at the same time but it really is a very mild, expected and controllable event. Your not really going from 100% traction to Zero. You don't go spinning off into oblivion. You simply begin to fade to the outside of the curve. This will usually occur at apex so you've got a lot of pavement to play with and just backing off on the power slightly brings everything back.

Like I said, very few will ever encounter this and if you do, you're most likely looking for it to begin with.

If the sway bar is too weak the front wheels lose traction first and 'Wash Out'. This happens much sooner than the 1st scenario given above. If the sway bar is too stiff, the rear wheel loses traction first causing the rear end to 'Kick-Out'.

Generally, the safest of all is for the front wheels to lose traction first which causes the rider to slow down to maintain control. However, there is some overall stability and rider control sacrificed, so you have to decide which way you want to go.

For the average driver, the worst situation is for the rear wheel to kick out which requires quick and correct reaction to maintain control. Though for a skilled driver in a race track environment, this may be exactly what you want.

If the manufacturer's goal is to keep cornering speeds low, then you want a weak sway bar. The vehicle is safe but the feeling is somewhat vague and uncertain compared to riding with a stiffer sway bar, especially if you are trying to go fast. The rider simply adjusts to riding curves at lower speeds.

Universal feedback that I get regarding the sway bar upgrade are;

Increased control in curves, crosswinds and when riding near large trucks on the freeway
Increased overall stability
Overall, better, more accurate steering
Easier steering in curves
Increased confidence and safety
Increased stability and control in 'Evasive' maneuvers
Increases the 'Fun Factor'

The other interesting comment I get is; 'I didn't think I needed this bar because I was quite happy with the way my Spyder handled stock. But I just didn't know what I was missing. I'm very glad I installed the bar.'

Hope this answers your long overdue question...
 
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