• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

RT Sway Bars are NOW IN STOCK!

If I were to replace my current Spyder which has the Evo bar on it.First thing I would do is order a new one from Ron. A better sway bar then stock is the best mod I did to my 2010RTS. I also have a set of 2012 front struts on the Spyder but I can only run them on 2 setting other wise far to stiff for wife and I. Are total weight for both of us is 300lbs.

Just a note of information here.

The difference between the EVO bar and my bar for the RT is significant in 2 ways. The EVO bar accomplishes a modest amount of improvement by shortening the arms of the sway bar. This changes the geometry of the linkage which attaches the sway bar to the suspension from the ideal (vertical) to a forward cant.

This in itself is not a huge deal. The problem is that there is very little clearance between these moving parts and the suspension with the stock setup. The EVO bar reduces this clearance even further. This can cause the moving linkage to contact hard parts on the suspension which can damage the Heim Joint Links.

My bar accomplishes a greater degree of control than is provided by the EVO bar by increasing the size of the bar while retaining the original geometry engineered by BRP. You get a better result without endangering suspension components. This is the main reason I do not make bars with multiple holes (called 'Adjustable' bars). There is no way multiple mounting locations will give you the correct orientation of the Heim Link Joints as engineered by BRP.

It is very easy to check your Spyder for unwanted contact issues. The Heim Joint Links are a black composite (Plastic) compound located at each end of the sway bar. You will see that the bottom of these links come very close to the forward portion of the A-Arm. If the paint has been removed from the A-Arm near the Heim Link Joint then you are getting unwanted contact.

If there is a divit worn into the steel A-Arm then you have severe contact and you should really do something about that. Checking the condition of your Heim LinK Joints would also be in order.
 
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Thank you for great info Ron. I will be checking on this as soon as possible.

The difference between the EVO bar and my bar for the RT is significant in 2 ways. The EVO bar accomplishes a modest amount of improvement by shortening the arms of the sway bar. This changes the geometry of the linkage which attaches the sway bar to the suspension from the ideal (vertical) to a forward cant.

This in itself is not a huge deal. The problem is that there is very little clearance between these moving parts and the suspension with the stock setup. The EVO bar reduces this clearance even further. This can cause the moving linkage to contact hard parts on the suspension which can damage the Heim Joint Links.

My bar accomplishes a greater degree of control than is provided by the EVO bar by increasing the size of the bar while retaining the original geometry engineered by BRP. You get a better result without endangering suspension components. This is the main reason I do not make bars with multiple holes (called 'Adjustable' bars). There is no way multiple mounting locations will give you the correct orientation of the Heim Link Joints as engineered by BRP.

It is very easy to check your Spyder for unwanted contact issues. The Heim Joint Links are a black composite (Plastic) compound located at each end of the sway bar. You will see that the bottom of these links come very close to the forward portion of the A-Arm. If the paint has been removed from the A-Arm near the Heim Link Joint then you are getting unwanted contact.

If there is a divit worn into the steel A-Arm then you have severe contact and you should really do something about that. Checking the condition of your Heim LinK Joints would also be in order.[/QUOTE]
 
Thank you for great info Ron. I will be checking on this as soon as possible.

I know it sounds like I'm just hawking my bar but during the development stages of this project I did a fair amount of research. I had the EVO bar on my RS and I always felt it performed well. But when I took it off to test my prototypes I discovered that one heim link joint was hitting my A-Arm. The EVO bar I had did not have the limiting collars which made the situation worse as the bar would move side to side as the suspension articulated.

But I found that even with limiting collars installed I still got a bit of contact on hard turning. I also found that the bar was not symmetrical. One arm was longer than the other by a surprising amount, (the short arm being the one that was hitting).

Fortunately, it wasn't hitting hard enough to have done any damage. But it should never hit at all.

I only had the one EVO bar so I can't say this issue was universal. But as I discussed it with other EVO owners I found that some discovered the same problem.

My main point here being that if you own an EVO bar, you might want to make sure you're not having contact as others have had.
 
Installed sway bar today and it was pretty simple install. Instructions were easy to understand. Also while there with bike in air did new brakes that I purchased from Ron also. Ran the tires over to Walmart and had them rotated to get more miles out of them. Hardest part of the whole job was watching them do that. I'm not sure they could do that job as well as me. Going to be relaying on Ride-On to balance the wheels. It was funny when I got home and notice a pound on weights on the rims I could only smile and shake my head. I removed all the weights and installed back on the bike. Can't wait to do a test ride.
 
Installed sway bar today and it was pretty simple install. Instructions were easy to understand. Also while there with bike in air did new brakes that I purchased from Ron also. Ran the tires over to Walmart and had them rotated to get more miles out of them. Hardest part of the whole job was watching them do that. I'm not sure they could do that job as well as me. Going to be relaying on Ride-On to balance the wheels. It was funny when I got home and notice a pound on weights on the rims I could only smile and shake my head. I removed all the weights and installed back on the bike. Can't wait to do a test ride.
I recently tried to get my local Walmart to rotate the front tires on my RT Ltd but when they saw the chrome wheels they doubled the price to $18 per wheel...:(
Later I found a local tire shop that did a great job for $10 per wheel. No RideOn for me in the front tires.... been there and done that... the huge vibs for the first few miles every time were more than I can take!
 
I hear that!

I recently tried to get my local Walmart to rotate the front tires on my RT Ltd but when they saw the chrome wheels they doubled the price to $18 per wheel...:(
Later I found a local tire shop that did a great job for $10 per wheel. No RideOn for me in the front tires.... been there and done that... the huge vibs for the first few miles every time were more than I can take!

:agree: vibs are for sure going to be there. And just for those of you out there that might take your wheels out to Walmart, when I got home and notice big gouges in the chrome from taking off the weights lets just say that was pretty hard to take. :banghead::banghead:
Thinking I will take them in later to tire shop and do the same.
 
GET IT GET IT GET IT RON is the man

Only the best up grade you can do to a RT, OMG what a better and safer ride, I think RON should be working for BP.what a great product.:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap: 10 stars here.
 

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Just a note of information here.

The difference between the EVO bar and my bar for the RT is significant in 2 ways. The EVO bar accomplishes a modest amount of improvement by shortening the arms of the sway bar. This changes the geometry of the linkage which attaches the sway bar to the suspension from the ideal (vertical) to a forward cant.

This in itself is not a huge deal. The problem is that there is very little clearance between these moving parts and the suspension with the stock setup. The EVO bar reduces this clearance even further. This can cause the moving linkage to contact hard parts on the suspension which can damage the Heim Joint Links.

My bar accomplishes a greater degree of control than is provided by the EVO bar by increasing the size of the bar while retaining the original geometry engineered by BRP. You get a better result without endangering suspension components. This is the main reason I do not make bars with multiple holes (called 'Adjustable' bars). There is no way multiple mounting locations will give you the correct orientation of the Heim Link Joints as engineered by BRP.

It is very easy to check your Spyder for unwanted contact issues. The Heim Joint Links are a black composite (Plastic) compound located at each end of the sway bar. You will see that the bottom of these links come very close to the forward portion of the A-Arm. If the paint has been removed from the A-Arm near the Heim Link Joint then you are getting unwanted contact.

If there is a divit worn into the steel A-Arm then you have severe contact and you should really do something about that. Checking the condition of your Heim LinK Joints would also be in order.

Ron a few questions,

I installed the EVO bar on my 2010 RT and as I remember they provided replacement bushings. Because your bar is larger in diameter I can assume you provide new bushings and brackets?

Additionally, you identify the parts on the end of the sway bar as Heim Link Joints. Would that actually be tie rod ends part number 706200671? When I did the install I remember the clearance being almost non-existent and I think I'll spend the extra few dollars and replace tie rod ends. With the EVO bar being shorter I'm sure they have been under stress.
 
I just installed Bajaron's sway bar on my 2012 RT Limited

I know a lot has been written about Bajaron's sway bar,but I have to tell you they are evn better than you could emagine.My riding stylye is two up with my wife being with me on every ride.I had set my shocks as stiff as I could and still I did not like the handling.I installed the Bajaron's sway bar and went on a 150 mile road trip with my wife,we took a long twisty old mining road that had us looking at our own rear end the turns were so tight.Well the Spyder handled so well that my wife kept saying this is a new bike!!!! She did not want to come home,we turned around and repeated the smae route in reverse and all I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!! what a inhancement to me handling of our Spyder.................................Monterey:firstplace:
 
Ron a few questions,

I installed the EVO bar on my 2010 RT and as I remember they provided replacement bushings. Because your bar is larger in diameter I can assume you provide new bushings and brackets?

Additionally, you identify the parts on the end of the sway bar as Heim Link Joints. Would that actually be tie rod ends part number 706200671? When I did the install I remember the clearance being almost non-existent and I think I'll spend the extra few dollars and replace tie rod ends. With the EVO bar being shorter I'm sure they have been under stress.

BRP does indeed call these 'Tie Rod' but for the life of me I do not know why. A tie rod is a steering component. But it's their machine and they can all the parts anything they want. These are #26 in the Parts listing for the Suspension-Front.

My bars come with bushings but not brackets. The OEM brackets work just fine. I also include limiting collars.
 
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