Backfiring through engine on RS

[bumper60651]

While traversing a steep grade I noticed backfiring through the engine rather than through the muffler. What could/would cause this?

 

[Motorcycledave]

backfire

While traversing a steep grade I noticed backfiring throughhe engine rather than through the muffler. What could/would cause this?__________------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I believe that is pre-ignition from crapy gas or the ignition timing is off....
Dave

 

[bobnaquin]

Check your exhaust pipe gaskets.

 

[boborgera]

I Agree with checking the Y gaskets,
Especially if you have more than 6 thousand miles on the stock gaskets.
When they go bad it could sound like the popping is from the engine.
If you do need new ones , Use the Honda gaskets;;
# 18392-MAM-000

 

[NancysToy]

Coughing back through the intake is unlikely the Y-gaskets. It would more likely indicate a very seriously lean condition, an ignition misfire, or a major engine malfunction. The first question I have is "Do you have a stock exhaust and air intake? Aftermarket components can lean the mixture out unless a Juice Box or similar device is fitted. Heading up a grade, especially at a higher altitude, could lean the engine past the ability for the ignition to fire the engine, causing misfire in the intake. As you can guess by my previous explanation, the next question is "What altitude?" Also, was your throttle wide open to climb the grade?

There are a host of other possible causes. Bad gas, bad spark plug wire(s) or worn plugs, bad coil, valve gap too small, burned valves, bad O2 sensor(s), bad crankshaft or cam sensors, plugged fuel filter, loose exhaust manifold, and the list goes on. Bad Y-gaskets could certainly compound any of these issues, of course. A good technician should be able to resolve the problem if it is repeatable. If it was a one-time thing, don't worry for now.

The timing can't be changed on the Spyder, nor can the fuel mapping, without an add-on device, so a normal tune-up isn't in order, as it would be with some other vehicles. New plugs and wires from BajaRon wouldn't hurt, as well as a new fuel filter and a valve clearance check. Sorry I can't isolate the problem more, but long-distance with few details given makes it very hard to diagnose. You'll have to settle for generalities.

 

[Machinegunner]

Scotty, the higher the altitude, the richer the mixture. The air is thinner. Could be an intake air leak of some sort, or leaking intake valve.

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty, the higher the altitude, the richer the mixture. The air is thinner. Could be an intake air leak of some sort, or leaking intake valve.

????? More air needs more fuel. Less air needs less fuel. The ECM should lean out the mixture at higher altitude to maintain the prescribed fuel-to-air ratio. On a fixed system (carburetor) what you say is true, because the fuel remains the same but the air is less. On an EFI system the fuel gets cut back at lower air pressure or low O2 sensor readings (due to the cylinders running richer at altitude), so the engine leans out in response.

 

[kman]

I agree with Scotty,"lean condition"mine did same thing after installing Evo Race Airfilter.Had to upgrade to Juicebox Pro and all is well now.

 

[Bob Denman]

We haven't heard back from him if he's running the stock exhaust sytem or not yet... :bbq::bbq:

 

[MikeinGA]

????? More air needs more fuel. Less air needs less fuel. The ECM should lean out the mixture at higher altitude to maintain the prescribed fuel-to-air ratio. On a fixed system (carburetor) what you say is true, because the fuel remains the same but the air is less. On an EFI system the fuel gets cut back at lower air pressure or low O2 sensor readings (due to the cylinders running richer at altitude), so the engine leans out in response.

Is there a way to clean the injectors. I got some bad gas that shut the engine down. I drained the gas and added Seafoam, filled it with good gas that helped but the front throlle body gas jet still makes the engine stall at low rpm's. Can the jets be changed or do I need BUD'S to set the jets up again?

Mike

 

[NancysToy]

Is there a way to clean the injectors. I got some bad gas that shut the engine down. I drained the gas and added Seafoam, filled it with good gas that helped but the front throlle body gas jet still makes the engine stall at low rpm's. Can the jets be changed or do I need BUD'S to set the jets up again?

Mike

I'm not sure how you have narrowed it down to this. There are other possible (and more probably) causes for the stalling. Reading the spark plugs would tell you if only one injector was plugged. There are no "jets" in a fuel injection system. I'd recommend having the dealer clean the throttle body and dismantle/clean the fuel injection system if need be. You can do a lot of harm in a hurry messing around there. If an injector is plugged, it will probably need to be relpaced. JMHO

 

[Bob Denman]

The BUDS system is just a computer... That won't clean any of the injectors out for you. I'm not sure what that'd take, but my first guess would be to drain out the bad fuel that you got and run some more heavy-duty cleaners through the system.
Good Luck! :thumbup:

Scotty snaked me...

 

[MikeinGA]

I'm not sure how you have narrowed it down to this. There are other possible (and more probably) causes for the stalling. Reading the spark plugs would tell you if only one injector was plugged. There are no "jets" in a fuel injection system. I'd recommend having the dealer clean the throttle body and dismantle/clean the fuel injection system if need be. You can do a lot of harm in a hurry messing around there. If an injector is plugged, it will probably need to be relpaced. JMHO

Thanks Scotty,
I called the dealer and talked to the service guy and he said that he seen that before. I told him that I cleaned the throttel body, checked the sparkplug, drained all the gas, added Seafoam, filled with new gas, and I stop there. I'm taking it down to the dealers to get fix.

Mike

 

[bruiser]

I was behind Mike the day of the ride at the BBQ. He had some serious problems with his Spyder. I stayed behind him just in case he had to park it. It was popping, loading up (black smoke) and it would quit at idle. Mike, hope you get it fixed.

 

[Pilo]

Coughing back through the intake is unlikely the Y-gaskets. It would more likely indicate a very seriously lean condition, an ignition misfire, or a major engine malfunction. The first question I have is "Do you have a stock exhaust and air intake? Aftermarket components can lean the mixture out unless a Juice Box or similar device is fitted. Heading up a grade, especially at a higher altitude, could lean the engine past the ability for the ignition to fire the engine, causing misfire in the intake. As you can guess by my previous explanation, the next question is "What altitude?" Also, was your throttle wide open to climb the grade?

There are a host of other possible causes. Bad gas, bad spark plug wire(s) or worn plugs, bad coil, valve gap too small, burned valves, bad O2 sensor(s), bad crankshaft or cam sensors, plugged fuel filter, loose exhaust manifold, and the list goes on. Bad Y-gaskets could certainly compound any of these issues, of course. A good technician should be able to resolve the problem if it is repeatable. If it was a one-time thing, don't worry for now.

The timing can't be changed on the Spyder, nor can the fuel mapping, without an add-on device, so a normal tune-up isn't in order, as it would be with some other vehicles. New plugs and wires from BajaRon wouldn't hurt, as well as a new fuel filter and a valve clearance check. Sorry I can't isolate the problem more, but long-distance with few details given makes it very hard to diagnose. You'll have to settle for generalities.

Scotty:
Speaking of "coughing back through the intake", and exhaust backfire...
I have a 2009 SE5 with a Hindle exhaust (liked the sound...), a KewlMetal air box (to get rid of the oil-in-the-airbox problem and gain access to the upper engine section...).
Mileage now is around 12500, mostly thru city traffic. Temperatures here hover around the 90's-100's F.
Since the intake and exhaust mods have caused the engine to run too lean, I have also installed an O2 Modifier to get rid of both problems, to no avail.
Then I installed a regular Juice Box (no Pro) with its original settings (O2 Modifier still installed)..., but both pre-ignition burps and backfire pops are always there.
I am getting the urge to tweak the JB controls to make the mix somehow richer, in order to eliminate the burping and popping, but after reading and re-reading the adjustment instructions, I don't yet guess where to adjust.
The JB modes control acceleration, maximum acceleration, cruising conditions, timing for acceleration and timing for maximum acceleration.
I am also installing new Y gaskets (Honda ones), new spark-plugs, new gas filter, and thoroughly cleaned the K&N air-filter as we speak, but don't want to run / ride the Spyder until I get some help with the JB.
BTW, I had to replace the plastic coolant-reservoir bottle one year ago..., but the new one has already developed vertical cracks and is useless. Wonder if BRP has improved its design or the material, to make it last a lot longer than one year.
No BRP (Spyder) dealer in this country, so I am on my own.
Any educated help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance... PILO

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty:
Speaking of "coughing back through the intake", and exhaust backfire...
I have a 2009 SE5 with a Hindle exhaust (liked the sound...), a KewlMetal air box (to get rid of the oil-in-the-airbox problem and gain access to the upper engine section...).
Mileage now is around 12500, mostly thru city traffic. Temperatures here hover around the 90's-100's F.
Since the intake and exhaust mods have caused the engine to run too lean, I have also installed an O2 Modifier to get rid of both problems, to no avail.
Then I installed a regular Juice Box (no Pro) with its original settings (O2 Modifier still installed)..., but both pre-ignition burps and backfire pops are always there.
I am getting the urge to tweak the JB controls to make the mix somehow richer, in order to eliminate the burping and popping, but after reading and re-reading the adjustment instructions, I don't yet guess where to adjust.
The JB modes control acceleration, maximum acceleration, cruising conditions, timing for acceleration and timing for maximum acceleration.
I am also installing new Y gaskets (Honda ones), new spark-plugs, new gas filter, and thoroughly cleaned the K&N air-filter as we speak, but don't want to run / ride the Spyder until I get some help with the JB.
BTW, I had to replace the plastic coolant-reservoir bottle one year ago..., but the new one has already developed vertical cracks and is useless. Wonder if BRP has improved its design or the material, to make it last a lot longer than one year.
No BRP (Spyder) dealer in this country, so I am on my own.
Any educated help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance... PILO

I'm not a Juice Box man, so someone with more experience with that product would be more help.

The coolant tank was redesigned at one point, but I don't know which design your replacement was.

 

[MikeinGA]

I was behind Mike the day of the ride at the BBQ. He had some serious problems with his Spyder. I stayed behind him just in case he had to park it. It was popping, loading up (black smoke) and it would quit at idle. Mike, hope you get it fixed.

Thanks for watching my back. I got it fixed at Freedom in GA., the dealer service department one of best and they had it fixed ia day. They found a bad MAP sensor, every time the engine got hot the sensor would miss up the mixture at low rpms. Without BUD'S you just can't fix these problems your self.


Mike

 

[Yazz]

Pilo,

The factory setting for the regular Juice-Box is configured for a stock RS with Two Bros pipes.

If you have anything more or different, you need to adjust the JB settings.