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Stupid: installed my rear brake disc backwards

Spyder Monkey

New member
Yeah, go ahead and laugh. It was late, it was dark, I was tired.

I was changing my rear tire and I put the brake disc on backwards (with the toothed side facing in towards the wheel). I of course immediately got a VSS / limp home fault before I got to the end of the street.

I took it back apart and flipped the disc to the correct side but I am still in limp home mode, even after driving carefully around the block.

Do I have to pull the battery to reset the fault or is there some other way to clear the fault? It is possible that I have another fault but without BUDS I don't know how to know the difference between an old fault and a persistent fault.

Thanks,
David
 
Edited:
I won't ask why you removed the disk from the hub in the first place...it doesn't have to be done to change the tire, just remove the whole hub. Some shops don't even require you to do that. The wheel can be removed with the brake remaining on the hub. Anyway, the first thing I would do is ride the Spyder a short distance. An ABS fault will not reset ntil the Spyder moves. If that doesn't do it, I'd check the ABS sensor air gap. I would also make sure that the ABS wiring is still properly connected. You can check the active fault codes ...and next time, leave the brake disc/assembly alone unless there is a good reason to remove it.
 
Last edited:
I won't ask why you removed the disk in the first place...it doesn't have to be done to change the tire. The wheel can be removed with the brake remaining on the Spyder. Anyway, the first thing I would do is ride the Spyder a short distance. An ABS fault will not reset ntil the Spyder moves. If that doesn't do it, I'd check the ABS sensor air gap. I would also make sure that the ABS wiring is still properly connected. You can check the active fault codes ...and next time, leave the brake disc/assembly alone unless there is a good reason to remove it.

Thanks for the response... Air gap looks good to me and wiring has no apparent problems.

So do you replace the tire without removing the hub / crush tube assembly? I was attempting to follow Lamonster's video on rear tire replacement and it appears he removes all that stuff.

Will double check wiring and gap and ride around the block again.

Thanks,
David


David
 
Sorry to mislead you. My first response wasn't worded well. I have edited it. At any rate, I did not have to remove the disk from the hub...even for spin balancing.

There should be a feeler gauge in your toolkit, for checking the ABS air gap. If riding doesn't clear things, and all the connectors are intact, I would look more closely. Beyond that, the fault codes can point you in the right direction.
 
Finally catching a break... After walking away and doing something else for an hour I came back to a Spyder reporting no error codes.

It does make a click noise once on each front side when I apply brakes. But I do not know if that is "normal" or not because I usually ride with a helmet and would miss those sounds.

Does anyone else hear a brief, single click from each front side, not simultaneous, when they apply the brakes?

David
 
The click up front when the brake is applied is normal. A click at each revolution of the wheel is not.
 
Finally catching a break... After walking away and doing something else for an hour I came back to a Spyder reporting no error codes.

It does make a click noise once on each front side when I apply brakes. But I do not know if that is "normal" or not because I usually ride with a helmet and would miss those sounds.

Does anyone else hear a brief, single click from each front side, not simultaneous, when they apply the brakes?

David
Mine does it sometimes, the front rotors are not " true" and at low speeds, sometimes they will click when applied lightly.Doesnt seem to be a problem.
 
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