Short answer, yes you need to change the fuel table.
Good news is the autotune will do it for you, once it's set up right.
Bad news is setting it up right might take some experimentation.
Load the map from Dynojet that is closest to your setup (intake and pipe).
Look at the trim table and it should be all zeros.
Look at the auto tune Target AFR table and it'll be all 13.2's in open loop and 0's in closed (see my other long post.)
Ride your bike. In 2nd gear go from 5000ish to redline at 100% throttle, then again at 80%, 60%, 40% and 20%. You'll have to make your best guess what each is. With the engine off and the laptop plugged in you can get a feel for where each is. You're shooting for 20something, 40something, 60something, not exactly on 20, 40 etc.
This will take some space and you'll be exceeding most speed limits.
3rd is the best gear to do this in, but you'll be going quite fast at redline. If that's ok and you have a safe place to do it, go for it.
1st happens too quickly to get a good read.
After you've done this at least a couple times for each throttle position, plug in the laptop and look at the trim tables. You'll see some of them aren't zero's anymore. This means it's working! If you did it enough, almost all of them will have a number in them. Remember that everything at 20% throttle and under, and 6000rpms and below will be zero on the trim table as the autotune doesn't work there.
Take a look at your Fuel Map. Depending on which map you loaded from Dynojet it will have 5's, 8's or 10's in the closed loop area and all kinds of numbers everywhere above that.
Accept your trim values and look at how the map changes. All the trim values are added into the map.
Click Send Map and then Save Map and give it a name that means something to you, like:
"Sny's 09 Spyder hindle stock air.pvm"
Now go ride it some more. You might notice some differences, you might not. Ride it like you normally do for a while (hours.) then ride it like someone stole it. Then ride like like your kids are on the back. Then repeat the above dyno-esque runs (20%, 40%, 60% etc.)
If you feel any funny spots, repeat over those several times. It won't do anything different now, but it is learning. Take it back to the barn and load up the laptop again and look at the new trims and accept them.
After a few thousand miles of this you'll notice the trims are nearly zero every time... little +1's and -2's here and there at most. That's when you know your map is working well and the bike is running like you told it to.
NOW you can start playing with the target AFR's :shocked:
Target AFR's will let you tweak mileage and power "lumps" and other odd and undesirable behavior.
- Sny
p.s. I'm no expert, just passing on what I've learned and what's worked for me so far. There's no great resource guides out there that help get you started on this. Took quite a bit of digging, reading, watching videos, bugging people and experimentation to get this far. If I had to do it all again I think I could have it sorted in a day instead of the month's it's taken. I haven't plugged the laptop in for a 4-5 weeks now. Yay!
