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Blocking both right side vents

DR Buck

New member
I've been trying to resolve the right side heat problem on my RT Limited. I've already installed the Spyderpops top blocking plate and removed the bottom splash plate. Then before going on my road trip last weekend I cut a large oval shaped opening in the inner panel behind the radiator fan (swoop area) and made a temporary blocking plate with some aluminum flashing to close the lower vent as well. This worked great! With the new blocking plate and Spyderpops CAT shields installed almost all of the heat is channeled under the bike and out the back. I'm no longer getting heat up around the seat and the "hot foot" syndrome is gone. The bike temperature stayed in the normal range when it hit 90º and was way down low when it was only 65º.

I was able to have my feet on the riders footrest or the NBV highway pegs without any heat issues during the 400 mile trip. Now I need to come up with a more permanent solution for the aluminum flashing.

EDIT: Looks like the Spyderpops lower blocking plate will be the permanent solution. I just placed the order.
 
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I think spyder pops does not recommend blocking both the top and bottom off. :dontknow: I would keep a careful on on temp gauge for sure. Good luck with it.
 
i just put on the 2nd block-off plate i got it from spyderpops and after some testominals about using both there isnt a problem ind but makng the hole in the swoop area should be the solution along with the block-offs and keep the coolness and air going out the back.
 
Spyderpops

I've been trying to resolve the right side heat problem on my RT Limited. I've already installed the Spyderpops top blocking plate and removed the bottom splash plate. Then before going on my road trip last weekend I cut a large oval shaped opening in the inner panel behind the radiator fan (swoop area) and made a temporary blocking plate with some aluminum flashing to close the lower vent as well. This worked great! With the new blocking plate and Spyderpops CAT shields installed almost all of the heat is channeled under the bike and out the back. I'm no longer getting heat up around the seat and the "hot foot" syndrome is gone. The bike temperature stayed in the normal range when it hit 90º and was way down low when it was only 65º.

I was able to have my feet on the riders footrest or the NBV highway pegs without any heat issues during the 400 mile trip. Now I need to come up with a more permanent solution for the aluminum flashing.

EDIT: Looks like the Spyderpops lower blocking plate will be the permanent solution. I just placed the order.



Pardon my lack of knowledge, what and where can I purchase " Spyderpops" I have a 2012 that tends to give me the 'hot foot' on the right side also. One would think the manufacture would have addressed the problem by now
 

Pardon my lack of knowledge, what and where can I purchase " Spyderpops" I have a 2012 that tends to give me the 'hot foot' on the right side also. One would think the manufacture would have addressed the problem by now

SpyderPops is a vendor on the "Home" page of this forum. He is a forum supporter and has several mods that he sells for spyders.
http://www.spyderpops.com/

Keep us updated on how your spyder is holding up with both plates installed. There has to be a reason why BRP didn't close those holes off and vent the hot air some other way. I just received the lower block off plate that I need to install, but I'm leaving the top hole open for now. If there are no issues, I may block off the top hole too.
 
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Heat

With both plates the heat on the rt side pull off panel gets it very hot. I had the bottom one on and took it off did not like how hot the panel got. I did not cut or modify my bike in any way. The top planel with canam on it was warm .
I may not have worded this right. there is nothing worng with anythihg from Spyderpops products.
 
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I've been trying to resolve the right side heat problem on my RT Limited. I've already installed the Spyderpops top blocking plate and removed the bottom splash plate. Then before going on my road trip last weekend I cut a large oval shaped opening in the inner panel behind the radiator fan (swoop area) and made a temporary blocking plate with some aluminum flashing to close the lower vent as well. This worked great! With the new blocking plate and Spyderpops CAT shields installed almost all of the heat is channeled under the bike and out the back. I'm no longer getting heat up around the seat and the "hot foot" syndrome is gone. The bike temperature stayed in the normal range when it hit 90º and was way down low when it was only 65º.

I was able to have my feet on the riders footrest or the NBV highway pegs without any heat issues during the 400 mile trip. Now I need to come up with a more permanent solution for the aluminum flashing.

EDIT: Looks like the Spyderpops lower blocking plate will be the permanent solution. I just placed the order.


I'll try pull the covers and get a picture of the swoop cutout I made. Since I've added the Lamonster NBV highway brackets, it a little more complex of an operation. Essentially I cut a ~4" x 6" oval in the swoop directly behind the fan using a hot (butane) knife. That hole opening along with removing the bottom panel provides plenty of open area for the hot air to get out. The heat on the right side panel is barely noticeable. Far less than the heat I had there and coming up around the seat with the FAN CAN installed. That’s the major reason I removed the FAN CAN. Last weekend’s 400 mile ride was in temperatures ranging from 58º to 85º and the temperature gauge never went past the mid point.

A FAN CAN type of air channeling device that ducted the hot radiator air back through an opening in the swoop area would be much better than blowing it into the center of the bike. Done correctly, you could put a 45º or so angle on the back end forcing the air down toward the ground.
 
With both plates the heat on the rt side pull off panel gets it very hot. I had the bottoms one on and took it off did not like how hot the panel got.
So when you have both block of plates installed, the long panel that is below the seat gets hot? Since you removed the bottom block off plate, I'm guessing you left the top one installed. What did you do to try and vent the hot air when both block off plates were installed?
 
I'll try pull the covers and get a picture of the swoop cutout I made. Since I've added the Lamonster NBV highway brackets, it a little more complex of an operation. Essentially I cut a ~4" x 6" oval in the swoop directly behind the fan using a hot (butane) knife. That hole opening along with removing the bottom panel provides plenty of open area for the hot air to get out. The heat on the right side panel is barely noticeable. Far less than the heat I had there and coming up around the seat with the FAN CAN installed. That’s the major reason I removed the FAN CAN. Last weekend’s 400 mile ride was in temperatures ranging from 58º to 85º and the temperature gauge never went past the mid point.

A FAN CAN type of air channeling device that ducted the hot radiator air back through an opening in the swoop area would be much better than blowing it into the center of the bike. Done correctly, you could put a 45º or so angle on the back end forcing the air down toward the ground.

I've been wondering about this type of solution. If the air was funneled straight back and down instead of to the side, I think it would be a much better solution. I don't have a way to fabricate something like that, but I've been trying to find something that would work.
 
panel

So when you have both block of plates installed, the long panel that is below the seat gets hot? Since you removed the bottom block off plate, I'm guessing you left the top one installed. What did you do to try and vent the hot air when both block off plates were installed?
NO it is the little panel with the chrome canam plate.
 
The lower block off plate by SPYDERPOPS is advertised to be used alone and not with the upper block off plate because we are still testing the results of both.

We do in fact have several RT's in various parts of the country running both and have discovered that in fact like Dr. Buck has discovered, holes have to be cut into the air duct/chute from the bottom. Without cutting the holes there is not enough air flow and it can heat up the upper panel. In very hot areas with high humidity the temps of the coolant will raise to the high range, but as soon as the holes are cut into the air duct/chute the temps go back to normal.

If you decide to do this yourself it is your decision as WE ARE NOT RECOMMENDING this proceedure at this time and will post our results after we have determined proper results.

Harvey
 
FYI ok update on ther heat shields i've got both on and i went out for a small ride today temps in the 80's. on my temp ind i was running 4bars and at idle it would go to 5bars(there are 9 bars on ind) but no higher and the temp read at one time 100 but then when i took off it went to 88-89, so as of right now looks like its working out ok bike ran just fine no hesitation or anything but truly will see how it does this weekend as it will be in the upper 90's so i might have to give another update on the heat controlness.
 
You also might want to check to see if the fan is running more than before. Most of my rides are in the upper 80s to mid 90s and the fan does not kick on unless I'm standing still for a while. I've checked it numerous times when moving and have yet to see it on.
 
Blocking both right side vents - With Pictures

Finally got around to taking pictures of the opening I created in the swoop area to vent the radiator hot air. My Spyderpops lower blocking cover came today and I had to open up the right side to remove my temporary blocking and put in the new one, so while in there I took off the top vent block to get some pictures.


This first picture is looking down and into the swoop area from the right front tire area.

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This next picture is a close-up of the opening. Note the area where I cut......... I did not cut into any portion of the swoop area panel that affected the structural integrety. There are stiffening ribs on the backside just to the outside of the right edge of the opening. I also left a fair portion of the bottom untouched to avoid making it weaker and causing it to deform.

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This next picture is from the bottom looking up. You can see the support ribs in this picture.

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This last photo , also from underneath and a little farther back gives you a perspective of the opening size and position in relation to the fan.

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Just to add another point on the actual performance, today it was in the upper 80º's outside and I was in bumper-to-bumper rush hour traffic for 1 1/2 hours and the temperature gauge was about 1/2 of a division above the halfway mark. The spyder thermometer on the multifunction display was reading 98º. That's the highest I've seen it in over a week and 650 miles testing.
 
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thats exactly what me and another friend did weeks ago before putting in the lower block-off,this is whats really going to make a difference in venting that heat out the rear and not on the foot area. so far so good
 
I've been running with both side vents blocked and a larger hole cut in the underplate for nearly a year. Last summer, in Eureka Sp, Ar, tooling around town looking at various springs and such, temps in the high 90's, the temp gauge never exceeded the spot where the fan came on. With local temps in 80's the fan comes on at any prolonged red light, but again it never goes higher.
 
according to the cluster ambient air temp was reading 102 while the actual temp was 94 bike ran very good the temp ind showed 5bars even at lights it did not go any higher but i did notice at speeds less then 40mph i could feel the heat coming from the seam near my leg by the calf area was quite hot air i have a sheet of reflect a cool going to put that on the inside panels and see if that helps block the heat from going through the seam. looks like this could require a little more modding then just putting in both block-offs.will keep you all posted hope to get all this done before leaving saturday for durango.
 
Took a short ride this morning in stop and go traffic with both block offs on. Never went above 5 bars. Display was showing 98 degrees.
 
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