spyderdmb1621
New member
Trying to find the trade in value for a 11 rts decked out with 4400 miles.
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Spyder rts 2011
- Thread starter spyderdmb1621
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Bob Denman
New member
Try kbb.com...
They have values for motorcycles too! :thumbup:
They have values for motorcycles too! :thumbup:
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
KBB shows $17,500 for good condition in your area.
CyncySpyder
Teddys favorite human
HUH?!?!?! Are you sure thats correct for a 2011 RT-S Spyder
:dontknow:Only 1 year old and its lost more than $10grand in value :yikes:
:dontknow:Only 1 year old and its lost more than $10grand in value :yikes:
CyncySpyder
Teddys favorite human
I just checked for myself
And in my area of Cincinnati,OH/Northern KY a 2011 RT-S in excellent condition is valued at $22,005
And in my area of Cincinnati,OH/Northern KY a 2011 RT-S in excellent condition is valued at $22,005
acinpcola
New member
Same in my area...22,005
Clicker1944
New member
I bet it's in better than good condition. But that still sounds low. Remember too that quote is wholesale not retail.
Clicker1944
New member
Just checked and it shows a RT LTD Auto for $18,750.
That's ridiculous $1,250 more for a LTD SE5 over a RTS???
This sounds really screwed up to me.
That's ridiculous $1,250 more for a LTD SE5 over a RTS???
This sounds really screwed up to me.
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
The info as I posted was for his zip code and was for trade in value. They did not show any other condition than good. The number I posted was what was on the site. My 2010 showed it was worth $15,700. His description was for an RTS--not the RT-LTD.
For retail you would probably add about $2000--that's what the dealer does.
If you doubt me, look it up under kbb motorcycles.
For retail you would probably add about $2000--that's what the dealer does.
If you doubt me, look it up under kbb motorcycles.
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Bob Denman
New member
More good reasons to keep riding what you've got! :thumbup: Depreciation... :gaah:
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I would say that depreciation has now caught up with Spyders. The first couple years there was very little information (blue book wise) because it was a new vehicle and did not have a track record.
Since dealers generally use the blue book to their advantage, I don't see values going up from blue book very much.
Most found their values through the market such as e-bay and various for sale ads found everywhere. I was also under the assumption that mine should be worth about 20K. But that is wrong based on what I found today. $15,700. Thats 44% of its original value--not counting farkles or other money put into the machine.
Motorcycles do tend to depreciate faster than cars and farkles count for about nothing to 50% if you are on the lucky side. Since I am nearing retirement age, I might be on my last vehicles. They are all paid for and running good. There is going to have to be a lot of incentive for me to jump in again and go into debt for thousands of dollars.
Since dealers generally use the blue book to their advantage, I don't see values going up from blue book very much.
Most found their values through the market such as e-bay and various for sale ads found everywhere. I was also under the assumption that mine should be worth about 20K. But that is wrong based on what I found today. $15,700. Thats 44% of its original value--not counting farkles or other money put into the machine.
Motorcycles do tend to depreciate faster than cars and farkles count for about nothing to 50% if you are on the lucky side. Since I am nearing retirement age, I might be on my last vehicles. They are all paid for and running good. There is going to have to be a lot of incentive for me to jump in again and go into debt for thousands of dollars.
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Bob Denman
New member
Farkles don't count??? :shocked: :gaah:
I'm in trubble! :roflblack:
I'm in trubble! :roflblack:
Clicker1944
New member
You misread my intent. I'm not doubting you at all. I simply said they only showed $1,250 more for an LTD w/SE5 over an RTS which to me seemed quite low. The SE5 alone should be at least a grand more in value. I never said he described a LTD.
Just for grins and giggles I put in the zip for Beverly Hills, CA and guess what...same exact numbers.
Bob Denman
New member
Maybe we should all search the Nation for the best place to get a good dollar for our bikes, and then move there when the time comes to sell it! :thumbup: :roflblack:
Dragonrider
New member
The only place you'll see values like that is at the dealer, if you try to trade it in. If you look closely at the KBB value, there's a deduction for the SM 5, as most "S" models are probably sold with the SE5 transmission - so the only real value of the LTD is the GPS.
Based on Ct and Ebay - somewhere between $21.5 & $23 would be reasonable - and the year doesn't seem to matter, other than the 12's which are running closer to retail….
Based on Ct and Ebay - somewhere between $21.5 & $23 would be reasonable - and the year doesn't seem to matter, other than the 12's which are running closer to retail….
Clicker1944
New member
Dragonrider
New member
I was offered a 2012 TriGlide with 1500 miles on the clock for my 2010 RT S and $2500 cash. I figure that was at least a $25K offer….
Huntindawg1962
New member
Nice how "Farkles" don't seem to mean anything to the trade-in value at the time of valuing the trade - but are highly touted as "big added value" to the new potential purchaser when they are on the used machine on the sales floor 
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I believe the moral of the story is: Do your homework before buying used, going to the dealer to buy new, or buying and trading in.
KBB is a good starting point, then use other sources in addition.
Also: pre-shop for financing. Allowing the dealer to do the work usually costs you a couple % points (dealer reserve). E.G. They will tell you the rate is 8%. They really get it for 6%. You pay the 8%, the dealer gets the difference between the 8% and the 6% as a "fee".
I always know my best rate before I go in to buy. If the dealer has a better rate, I take it. Last time, I got 0% financing on my Kawi Vulcan with 2 year terms.
KBB is a good starting point, then use other sources in addition.
Also: pre-shop for financing. Allowing the dealer to do the work usually costs you a couple % points (dealer reserve). E.G. They will tell you the rate is 8%. They really get it for 6%. You pay the 8%, the dealer gets the difference between the 8% and the 6% as a "fee".
I always know my best rate before I go in to buy. If the dealer has a better rate, I take it. Last time, I got 0% financing on my Kawi Vulcan with 2 year terms.
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