RT Hitch removal and belt adjustment

[Lamonster]

These are questions that come up all the time so I decided that since I needed to make some adjustments on my belt I would go ahead and take some pics and add captions to answer some of the questions that have been posted here many times before. As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words so I hope this will cut down on my typing. :doorag:

You start by removing the through bolt that holds the hitch on.

This bolt should slide right out after the nut is removed from the right side.

Now you're ready to remove the hitch after the bolt is removed.

The hitch is going to be on there pretty tight so grab the ball and move it side to side till it breaks loose. Then pull it straight back being careful of the brake line and sensor wire on the right side.

This shouldn't take much more than 5 min. to get the hitch off. Took me a little longer as you can tell by the time stamp.

The last time my dealer did a tire change and belt tension check I got out my Krikit and marked it where he had it set with the sonic gauge. This has worked well for me for many years and you can pick these up for about $20 bucks.

When the Spyder is on the ground go ahead and loosen the axle nut. When you have the Spyder in the air you can start making adjustments. As you can see from the picture I have the belt just off of the sprocket flange about 1-2mm. This can be a fight some times and you're better off making small adjustments to start with as it doesn't take much to move the belt.

After I get the belt where I like it I check the tension while it's on the ground it should be a little more when it's on the ground because the swingarm is now more inline with the counter sprocket.

I don't know how many times I've been asked about removing the hitch bolt from folks that thought it was the axle. This picture is just to show you that the axle is under the hitch and removing the hitch bolt has no effect on the belt tension.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BELT TENSION

Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...:thumbup:

 

[SteveMac]

Great Tutorial and Excellent Writeup! :2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

 

[Lamonster]

Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...:thumbup:

I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

 

[CyncySpyder]

Just one more reason WE LOVE this SITE so dang much, THANK YOU for Share'n Lamont

I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum:firstplace: has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful :bowdown: Spyder Owners:clap: Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses :yes: Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT:2thumbs:

 

[Littlebadwolf]

I'm looking to buy one of these hitches used if anybody's got one they want to part with.

 

[EzeSpyderGA]

Question for Lamont

Is the 150# reading typical when the rear wheel is off the ground and the 200# reading when the :spyder2: has the rear wheel on the ground? Thanks for the great tip and the reference to the Kirkit tool. I found one with a 100-300 pound range and ordered that bad boy. :clap::clap:

 

[IGETAROUND]

Here is a short u-tube video showing how to properly use the Kirkit tool

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

LAMONT & IGETAROUND

Thankyou very much , both of you that krikit video was SUPER INFORMATIVE the thing is useless or even dangerous if not used properly..Mike .....:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: :agree:

 

[canam9]

I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum:firstplace: has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful :bowdown: Spyder Owners:clap: Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses :yes: Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT:2thumbs:

:agree: Thank you thank you!!!:thumbup:

 

[SpyderFun]

Belt Tension Limits per Midwest Manuals pg 483

According to Service Bulletin 2010-6 the "new" factory tension is supposed to be:
450 +/- 150 Newtons
(or a minimum of 300 to a maximum of 600 Newtons)

Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds

Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
300 Newtons = 67.4 lbs
450 Newtons = 101.2 lbs
600 Newtons = 134.9 lbs

However, this does not mean what you should be getting. It simply shows the difference between the numbers the dealer uses versus what may seem an easy mathematical "conversion".

WHY BRP chose to measure the belt tension with an expensive piece of equipment is up for grabs! After all, tension is tension. They just chose an expensive way of measuring it.

IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which logically may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means. Conversely, if one were to tension a belt to "x" pounds it would also have a reflective newton value.

***Thanks Scotty for the updated limits! I was not aware of them when I made my original post.

 

[NancysToy]

According to MWM the factory tension is supposed to be:
750 +/- 250 Newtons
(or a minimum of 500 to a maximum of 1,000 Newtons)

Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds

Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
500 Newtons = 112.4 Pounds
750 Newtons = 168.6 Pounds
1,000 Newtons = 224.8 Pounds

I hope this helps those that have questions about what numbers they should be getting.

IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means.

:lecturef_smilie: The belt tension spec was changed to 450 N +/- 150 N, per Service Bulletin 2010-6. Do not use the old tension spec, it will destroy the front sprocket and possibly the drive shaft. Also be aware that the BRP spec is the average of three readings taken at different places on the belt, and is read with the Spyder jacked up. Changes of conditions will change the readings. Theoretically, you cannot directly convert sonic meter readings, since they take belt width, span, and mass into account, while mere "scales" do not. The best method is to have the belt properly adjusted, then take baseline readings with an alternate meter, to get a target.

 

[SpyderFun]

POST UPDATED

Updated my post with info provided by Scotty....

 

[SpyderFun]

....Theoretically, you cannot directly convert sonic meter readings, since they take belt width, span, and mass into account, while mere "scales" do not.

Not sure I agree.
BEGINNING with a sonic measurement, which takes in all the belt info to determine a value, and then converting THAT number should work. BRP gives us their acceptable "sonic" range.
BUT, beginning with a tension and then trying to convert THAT, a number that takes no belt info into consideration, into a sonic equivalent would likely prove difficult if not impossible.
It would nice if some shop did a compareison between these two methods! (i.e. a Kriket tensioned belt of "x" when "plucked" would give a "y" sonic value)

...The best method is to have the belt properly adjusted, then take baseline readings with an alternate meter, to get a target.

:agree:

 

[NancysToy]

Not sure I agree.
BEGINNING with a sonic measurement, which takes in all the belt info to determine a value, and then converting THAT number should work. BRP gives us their acceptable "sonic" range.
BUT, beginning with a tension and then trying to convert THAT, a number that takes no belt info into consideration, into a sonic equivalent would likely prove difficult if not impossible.
It would nice if some shop did a compareison between these two methods! (i.e. a Kriket tensioned belt of "x" when "plucked" would give a "y" sonic value)

:agree: It should work, and it is probably close, considering the OEM spec is now +/- 33%. I would also like to see a comparison of readings taken jacked up and on the ground.

 

[SpyderFun]

:agree: It should work, and it is probably close, considering the OEM spec is now +/- 33%. I would also like to see a comparison of readings taken jacked up and on the ground.

I would add that +/- 33% is some SERIOUS "Slop Factor" for a company with roots in aviation and an engine company who make aircraft engines! :yikes:
Seems the engineers were way off on their initial "spec" numbers for belt tension. :banghead:
Makes one wonder what else they have "mis-calculated"? :dontknow:

opcorn:

 

[SpyderFun]

Under Tensioned Belt, Poor Alignment & Rear Wheel Torque

My belt was "flapping" and made for a terrible ride due to the vibration it put off. Too much "flap" under a load can cause the belt to skip over either the drive gear or wheel sprocket. Either could cause premature wear and failure.
A properly tensioned belt should be SMOOTH and not flapping. :thumbup:
However, there is a line between proper and over tension do not cross it or unseen wear may result.

I found my belt was so under tensioned it gave me no reading on the Krikit (<100 lbs) and failed to have any clearance from the rear wheel sprocket and the rear wheel axle nut was not torqued to spec!

Seems we Owners are going to have to keep a sharp eye on our "professional mechanics"!

 

[StanProff]

I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.

 

[SpyderFun]

Alignment or Tension???

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.

Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?

Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual. :read:

Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.

 

[StanProff]

Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?

Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual. :read:

Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.

Doing alignment: I think I read somewhere that using 3rd was a little safer if something were to happen and the spyder fell to the ground. It would kill the motor easier than first. I am sure it doesn't matter much either way. Also it seemed to spin a little smoother in 3rd than 1st, i had it in both. 1st was a little more hurky jerky. Anyway the alignment worked out perfect and all is well. I ordered a Kriket to check the belt tension and will tackle that next. Thanks for your input.