Alignment

[aka1004]

Ok so I did some research and know how to measure toe in or toe out, I think...
But I can't find anything on how to make the adjustment.
Also, slightly toe-in is the way to go right?
Thank you in advance.

 

[r1100rider]

Ok so I did some research and know how to measure toe in or toe out, I think...
But I can't find anything on how to make the adjustment.
Also, slightly toe-in is the way to go right?
Thank you in advance.

Jack up the trike put the arms on level blocks remove the wheels put a couple lug nuts back on with a few washer to hold the rotors get two 8 ft long Pcs of of iron or straight wood screw them to the outside of the rotors measure the distance between front and rear the front should be about 1/8 iness 6 ft away from the bike that will give slight toe in if you need to adjust you turn the threaded rod going to the spindles in very slight equal amounts

 

[aka1004]

Jack up the trike put the arms on level blocks remove the wheels put a couple lug nuts back on with a few washer to hold the rotors get two 8 ft long Pcs of of iron or straight wood screw them to the outside of the rotors measure the distance between front and rear the front should be about 1/8 iness 6 ft away from the bike that will give slight toe in if you need to adjust you turn the threaded rod going to the spindles in very slight equal amounts

I need to measure distance between two front rotors in front of the rotors and rear of the rotors, right?
When you say screw the wood to rotors, to what or where? Little confused.
Thank you.

Also, what i read on another thread was measure the distance from CENTER of spyder to front and back of rotors but how do you pinpoint exact center? Use the frame that runs in the middle?

 

[NancysToy]

The shop manual method for checking alignment is summarazed as follows:

1. Jack up Spyder and remove front wheels.
2. Snug down the rotors with a couple of lug nuts.
3. Clamp two pieces of (aluminum) strap to the frame, then clamp a marked 8' length of aluminum angle to this, centered on the front axle line. Do not use angle iron, as it is not straight enough.
4. Attach a magnetic laser level to one rotor, then measure to the alloy angle at the marks, three feet in front, and three feet behind the axle line. Do the same for the other side.
5. Add the measurements for the front and add those for the back, and compare. The front should measure -10 mm (-0.394") less than the rear. That should give 0 mm when the Spyder is back on the ground. For the RT, I suggest a little more than the factory spec, especially if you are heavy or carry a passenger a lot, or if you have inner tread wear but your alignment measures correctly.
6. Adjust the tie rods equally to obtain the correct measurements.
7. Use BUDS to rezero the steering sensors.

 

[r1100rider]

I need to measure distance between two front rotors in front of the rotors and rear of the rotors, right?
When you say screw the wood to rotors, to what or where? Little confused.
Thank you.

Also, what i read on another thread was measure the distance from CENTER of spyder to front and back of rotors but how do you pinpoint exact center? Use the frame that runs in the middle?

You just screw the straight wood thru the holes in the rotors and measure close to the Spyder and then farthest away at the end of strait pcs the far measurements should be a little less to get toe in a about 1/8 to 1/4 in in a 6 ft run

 

[aka1004]

I am sorry, I am not getting this.
Think I am getting a headache...
I am trying to picture what I was supposed to measure but it's just not happening.
Two methods doesn't even sound like measuring the same thing.

"then clamp a marked 8' length of aluminum angle to this"

Where is it supposed to be marked? In middle?
Than project laser from the rotor forward and back and measure from that point to the MARK on the angle?

"screw wood thru holes on rotor"

I am guessing wood is screwed lengthwise to rotor? One on each side. Center of wood lengthwise to rotor? If I had piece wood screwed on each rotor, where am I measuring from and to?

 

[ThreeWheels]

One pther point. All of this has to be done with the steering set to exact neutral.
The dealers have a jig for this.
I'm not sure how you would duplicate it.

 

[Lamonster]

Think I am getting a headache...
I am trying to picture what I was supposed to measure but it's just not happening.

Unless you know what you're doing I wouldn't mess with it. I've done this in Spyder school and I was surprised how little of an adjustment made a huge difference. nojoke

 

[r1100rider]

I am sorry, I am not getting this.
Think I am getting a headache...
I am trying to picture what I was supposed to measure but it's just not happening.
Two methods doesn't even sound like measuring the same thing.

"then clamp a marked 8' length of aluminum angle to this"

Where is it supposed to be marked? In middle?
Than project laser from the rotor forward and back and measure from that point to the MARK on the angle?

"screw wood thru holes on rotor"

I am guessing wood is screwed lengthwise to rotor? One on each side. Center of wood lengthwise to rotor?

You are making this to hard the wood screwed to the rotors goes forward lengthwise with the Spyder I jT t just amplifies the angle the rotors are pointing you measure between the straight wood ortedal close to the trike then at the far end and. Ompare the measurements the car one should a little lessI did this on my first Spyder it was toe out And wore the tires out in 5000 miles
After doing this my new tires have went 700 0 still look new no buds reset no problems yes the handlebars need to be straight if you want to get tecnicial snap lines on the floor and eyeball everything to make the. Bike straight. But it's just a trend in the front tire angles you are shooting for

 

[Bob Denman]

Unless you know what you're doing I wouldn't mess with it. I've done this in Spyder school and I was surprised how little of an adjustment made a huge difference. nojoke

:shocked: :agree: :shocked:

 

[aka1004]

So it's measuring the distance between the two pieces of wood?
And distance in front should be 1/8 to 1/4" narrower than back?

I know I know but simplest thing isn't do simple if you never done it before.
Once I do it, it will be so easy.

With lack of competent spyder mech, I am trying to learn to do everything myself on spyder.
I might lack experience and knowledge but who's going to care more about my spyder than me?
I hope to learn to do everything, including valve adjustment so I will be sort of a spyder specialist before my next spyder.

Got a service manual and training video on order.

 

[Lamonster]

So it's measuring the distance between the two pieces of wood?
And distance in front should be 1/8 to 1/4" narrower than back?

I know I know but simplest thing isn't do simple if you never done it before.
Once I do it, it will be so easy.

With lack of competent spyder mech, I am trying to learn to do everything myself on spyder.
I might lack experience and knowledge but who's going to care more about my spyder than me?
I hope to learn to do everything, including valve adjustment so I will be sort of a spyder specialist before my next spyder.

I'm not sure where he's coming up with 1/8 to 1/4 but the toe in spec is 3/32. That's not much. It use to be 0.

 

[Bob Denman]

I'm not sure where he's coming up with 1/8 to 1/4 but the toe in spec is 3/32. That's not much. It use to be 0.

:agree:
1/8 equals 4/32
1/4 equals 8/32
A bit more than the 3/32 that he's using! :shocked:

 

[NancysToy]

Alignment on a Spyder is not a simple procedure, and it is certainly not a place to play around and jury-rig alternate methods, making up your own specs and distances as you go along. If you want to guess at it with 2x4s, wood screws, and a yard stick, don't expect warranty relief when your tires wear, your handling gets squirrelly, or your steering sensors are off and cause alarms or steering woes. This is not a place for the do-it-yourselfer! :lecturef_smilie:

 

[NancysToy]

It's much more accurate and easy if you just measure the distance center to center on the front of the tires then do the same at the rear - toe in should be no more than 1/4" and no less than zero. Also it should be at ride height with normal load not jacked up. Keep in mind toe in just compensates for camber if the camber is 1 degree then 1/4" toe is about right. I believe the spyders run zero camber so toe in should be close to zero.

To much toe in will cause scuffing and quicker tire wear but as a side note will lighten up steering. Toe out will do the same but will cause slight wandering and instability in heavy cornering.

This is just generic and applies to all vehicles in general.

Neat trick with the trunk and the engine in the way. nojoke

 

[aka1004]

"Toe out will do the same but will cause slight wandering and instability in heavy cornering."

I have a lot of wandering and feels like spyder is going under on high speed curves and darting to right when braking.

With experience with 5 spyder mechs and I can only trust one(too bad he is 280 miles away) to do the job right and won't try to screw me, I am committed to working on spyder myself. Bought tools, ordered manual and brp training video and will be gathering as much info as possible.

I do like board along tires idea, will try that and confirm with brp way, just to see.

 

[Spyderjockey]

You are making this to hard the wood screwed to the rotors goes forward lengthwise with the Spyder I jT t just amplifies the angle the rotors are pointing you measure between the straight wood ortedal close to the trike then at the far end and. Ompare the measurements the car one should a little lessI did this on my first Spyder it was toe out And wore the tires out in 5000 miles
After doing this my new tires have went 700 0 still look new no buds reset no problems yes the handlebars need to be straight if you want to get tecnicial snap lines on the floor and eyeball everything to make the. Bike straight. But it's just a trend in the front tire angles you are shooting for

After reading this I cannot figure out what is trying to be conveyed. For instance what is this "Spyder I jT t" or this "Ompare the measurements the car one should a little less" or "But it's just a trend in the front tire angles"?? :dontknow:


I just measured the distance between the tires in front just under the trunk about 3 1/2" off the floor and the same in back of the front tires going from the same tread groove in the center of the tire and adjusted the tie rod ends equally from both side of the Spyder. The handle bars are perfectly straignt and it goes down the road with no pulling to the left or the right and handles as good as when it was new. No problems are forseen at all.

 

[MikeinGA]

Alignment on a Spyder is not a simple procedure, and it is certainly not a place to play around and jury-rig alternate methods, making up your own specs and distances as you go along. If you want to guess at it with 2x4s, wood screws, and a yard stick, don't expect warranty relief when your tires wear, your handling gets squirrelly, or your steering sensors are off and cause alarms or steering woes. This is not a place for the do-it-yourselfer! :lecturef_smilie:

:agree: I agree with that 100 percent. The only thing I align is my rear tire to the center of the frame and axel to end of the swing arm on my Spyder RS-S.

Mike

 

[r1100rider]

Well to clarify I can't say regarding the particular specs pertaining to the sypder. But one thing I have learned after building two reverse trikes is steering geometry. Four front ends on the Stealth led to just one on the V3 and has taught me a lot regarding camber, toe and most importantly caster.

I have no power steering assist and both bikes handle great. tire wear so far at 20k each is undetectable so I am certain 60-70k is a reality.

It really makes no difference if it's a home brew or factory RT the geometry is going to be the same. Toe only pertains to camber nothing else. Caster is what actually effects steering force and stability. It's not rocket appliances it's just 100 year old technology which has never changed.

If you can achieve zero toe then that's the only adjustment achievable as the spyders do not have caster adjustments like my units do.

Since the trunk is in the way it's hard to measure the tire tread to tread that is why I use something long clamped or screwed to the rotors a long piece of wood or medal will show up the angles more than just the 24 in of the tires the rotors are true to tha spindles and if your straight surface is a few ft long it will show up the toe in or out very well so if you measure with a tape measure not a yard stick as some implied the measurement. Close to the front and a few ft away will be equal if it no toe the front measurement will be wider toe out less toe in just an 1/8 less in the front is what my second Spyder checked factory setting ,yes the Spyder is high Tec electric steer dps,abs and so on but the need for the front tires to be parallel and slightly toe in hasn't change since the model T with wood frames yes you need to turn the steering rods equal and only a 1/16 turn at a time and recheck but it sure can be done with out laser 's and such most early Spyder 's were toe out and earth and many lost tires fast dealers usually won't. Cover tire anyway

 

[r1100rider]

Toe adjustment is the only adjustment that can be made on the Spyder so it's about as simple as checking tire pressure. Jacking the vehicle up will produce a false adjustment as the toe will change as you lift the front. To be correct it should be done at ride height. Lifting and bolting 2x4's to the rotors may seem like an accurate way to do things but in the end you will probably have a misaligned setup.
Take your 2x4's and just lay them against the tires. Take your measurements and adjust. The entire procedure should only take 5-10 minutes and will be 100% spot on vs the probably badly toed out situation you will have if you lift the front off the ground and do it that way.
It really is about as simple as checking the oil. I only post this as I hate to see people go through a bunch of unnecessary work only to end up with a botched job in the end. KIS

I didn't say do it with front lifted you put the a arms down on blocks so the weight is on the front like it would be with the tires ,I tried the beside the tire method and the rubber and the flex of the radial isn't true enough that why I clamped or screwed to the rotors they are much more true, and I will disagree that toe in or out won't cause dartiness what happens is the front tires will fight to control steering direction depending on which one has more weight and or traction on it