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How do shops "clean the throttle body"

ulflyer

Active member
Every 6K miles the book calls for inspect/clean the throttle body. I'd like to know what they use and how they do this service. Is this something worthwhile, what with all the throttle body failures we've been having?
 
Do they in fact actually clean them?????? :dontknow:
Would some sort of fuel system cleaner work as an alternative? :dontknow:
 
On a few of my cars the crud would build up and cause the throttle valve to stick closed. That made for jackrabbit starts from lights, etc. I cleaned them with spray carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. Fuel additives wouldn't help this but would help the fuel passages. This was more like a 50K mile interval. Don't know why the Spyder would be any worse except for the oil they tend to suck up into the airbox.
 
I was iinterested to know about this, so I took a look at YouTube.


It doesn't feature the Spyder but the principle is the same.
 
Geoff: good video and timely for my auto as well. Soon as it warms a bit I want to clean the TB on the Altima. Not sure I want to attempt doing it on the RT.
 
I would be very careful spraying into the throttle body that is a liquid and it wont compress if you tried to start the engine with liquid in cylinders expect a bent con rod or cracked piston.Best way is to spray air intake cleaner on a clean shop rag on the end of a wooden dowel and wipe inside tb with throttle open hope this helps
 
The manual gives the following procedure:

1. Remove upper side panels and central panel;
2. Remove air filter housing cover;
3. Check throttle body cleanliness with a flashlight. Also check when throttle plates are fully opened;
4. Inspect throttle body bore, throttle plate edge, air orifice; Look for dirt, oily surfaces, carbon deposits on throttle plates and surrounding bores;
5. Clean as necessary using a throttle body cleaner such as Gunk Intake Medic;
Use only an appropriate throttle body cleaner that will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor, and catalytic converter. Do not spray any cleaning fluid on the Electronic Throttle Actuator.
6. To avoid getting dirt into engine, spray cleaner on a clean rag then rub against throttle plates and bores. A toothbrush also work well;
7. Hold throttle fully open to reach all surfaces;
8. To remove residual dirt, spray cleaner on (wiped) throttle plates and bores;
9. Spray cleaner inside air orifices.
 
Does it list the proper cuss words to use while removing the air filer housing cover in French or English? :shocked: :roflblack:
 
I am guessing they left that out due to the pre-medication proceedure of two martinis to be ingested by the mechanic prior to attempting the procedure. .
 
The manual gives the following procedure:
5. Clean as necessary using a throttle body cleaner such as Gunk Intake Medic;
Use only an appropriate throttle body cleaner that will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor, and catalytic converter. Do not spray any cleaning fluid on the Electronic Throttle Actuator.
6. To avoid getting dirt into engine, spray cleaner on a clean rag then rub against throttle plates and bores. A toothbrush also work well;
7. Hold throttle fully open to reach all surfaces;
8. To remove residual dirt, spray cleaner on (wiped) throttle plates and bores;
9. Spray cleaner inside air orifices.

This sorta implies that Gunk Intake Medic is an appropriate cleaner, and that being so, it will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor or catalytic converter but like all cleaning fluid, it should be kept away from the Electronic Throttle Actuator. Is that how you read it, Scotty?
 
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This sorta implies that Gunk Intake Medic is an appropriate cleaner, and that being so, it will not damage O-rings, MAP sensor or catalytic converter but like all cleaning fluid, it should be kept away from the Electronic Throttle Actuator. Is that how you read it, Scotty?
Yes. There are others, too. They usually have text on the can that says they are safe for o-rings, sensors, etc.
 
Yes. There are others, too. They usually have text on the can that says they are safe for o-rings, sensors, etc.

Thanks. In just over a year my RT will be out of its 2-year guarantee so I've started gathering technical info for when I start my own nuts and bolts servicing. Every little helps! :f_spider:
 
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