Rear tire alignment issues

[Dirt_Dad]

Recently changed the rear tire using Lamonsters method. That went well, but for some reason the alignment is no longer the same. I've tried to tweak it according to the service manual, but not getting the desired results. If I set the belt to have 1mm of space from the pulley, the belt walks pretty far off the pulley when the bike travels any distance in reverse. To keep the belt mostly on the pulley when reversed the belt is right up against the pulley. I've measured the distance on both sides of the axle and they are both the same distance from the back of the swing arm. What is the trick to getting this aligned properly?

Belt location after riding forward.


below location after riding backwards for a distance.

 

[NancysToy]

I wouldn't look at the belt alignment in reverse. In reverse or in turns, the alignment can and will change. The best method of checking is to jack the Spyder up and run or roll the tire forward, adjusting to the spec. You can roll the entire Spyder forward, but you should roll it straight. If the change in reverse is huge, or you can't maintain the set alignment, inspect for front sprocket/output shaft looseness and wear, or for a rear hub that is not seated correctly.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Interesting. I did have to ride it backwards in a circle, so sounds like that could have contributed to the amount it was off.

 

[arntufun]

I agree with Scotty, but also make sure your rear sprocket is seated flush on the wheel dampeners.

 

[bobbobtar]

I also replaced my rear tire on the RT and after putting everything back together the belt was not tracking correctly, the RT was still on the jack so I just loosened the axle nut and spun the tire by hand while adjusting the screws, till I had it tracking correctly.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I agree with Scotty, but also make sure your rear sprocket is seated flush on the wheel dampeners.

This is not what I consider to be flush. So you're saying I need to take it apart and try again?

 

[arntufun]

Is it the same gap all the way around or does the width of the gap change as you spin the tire ??? If there is a difference, that might be your problem. Mine was a pain in the azz to get straight.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I believe it's the same all the way around, but will need to confirm that tomorrow afternoon.

 

[arntufun]

I believe it's the same all the way around, but will need to confirm that tomorrow afternoon.

If it is the same, that is not the issue and continue on with Scotty advice. :thumbup:

 

[Firefly]

As Scotty said--- don't sweat reverse. I always check it- but forward is the main goal when aligning the belt. Easiest way to do it is on the fly while running on stands.

 

[Wattsmyname]

Belt is a Pain

It was a very time consuming project getting my belt realigned, another post suggested raising the rear of the bike and adjusting with it running in 1st gear then into reverse until you get it into the proper position. That worked fairly well but was still a major pain in the rear. I know most people think these belts are great and I agree it is better than a chain but I have never had one single alignment, tension or other issue with the single sided swingarm/shaft drive on my BMW R1200GS. Oh how I wish I could transplant one of those engine/drivetrains into a Spyder....maybe someday. Good Luck on that project and be patient, it takes some time.

Recently changed the rear tire using Lamonsters method. That went well, but for some reason the alignment is no longer the same. I've tried to tweak it according to the service manual, but not getting the desired results. If I set the belt to have 1mm of space from the pulley, the belt walks pretty far off the pulley when the bike travels any distance in reverse. To keep the belt mostly on the pulley when reversed the belt is right up against the pulley. I've measured the distance on both sides of the axle and they are both the same distance from the back of the swing arm. What is the trick to getting this aligned properly?

Belt location after riding forward.
View attachment 40181

below location after riding backwards for a distance.
View attachment 40183

View attachment 40182

 

[capt.jim]

As Scotty and Firefly stated, It is easier to get the back wheel off the ground a couple of inches and run it in first or second, just make sure it is secure and chocked. The hub doesn't fit flush, but the crack should be even. The belt will tend to ride to the outside in reverse, probably even more so if you went in a circle. Don't forget to tighten the axle bolts when your done, easy to forget when your frustrated or get a phone call.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

...easy to forget when your frustrated or get a phone call.

I've learned repeatedly how bad distractions can be while working on bikes. I'll give this another shot after work today. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

 

[Firefly]

I run mine in 3rd gear when doing alignment.. pretty sure I read that in the service manual... and in the event you drop the bike--- if in 3rd she will stall.

I just use my ATV jack and bring the whole thing up in the air.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Not going well so far. The space around the pulley was uniform, so good there. But even with it up in the air and running the belt either wants to hug the inside of the pulley, or head towards way off to the outside. I cannot get it to stay 1 to 5 mm away from the inside of the pulley. Small adjustments and waiting with the engine spinning the tire don't appear to do much of anything, then all of a sudden it just quickly starts heading to the outside, even when it's been a while since I turned the adjuster. I don't get the sense it's responding to my input, but rather randomly taking off.

I'm obviously doing something wrong, but not sure what it is?

 

[NancysToy]

That is a classic sign of a bad front sprocket, but it could also indicate bad rear wheel or sprocket bearings.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

That is a classic sign of a bad front sprocket, but it could also indicate bad rear wheel or sprocket bearings.

Do any of those go bad with only 8500 miles? I know when the dealer (non-selling dealer) did the 600 mile service he said the original tension was set extremely tight. But he did correct that at the 600 mile service.

I made more attempts this evening. I finally got it pretty stable while up on the jack. As soon as I took it down a rode it straight the belt went out to the outside of the pulley. Repeated this process several times always with the same result, good on the jack, off when on the ground. So I adjusted it to be up against the inside of the pulley. On the ground it says on the pulley now, but does not have the 1mm of clearance.

 

[NancysToy]

Do any of those go bad with only 8500 miles? I know when the dealer (non-selling dealer) did the 600 mile service he said the original tension was set extremely tight. But he did correct that at the 600 mile service.

I made more attempts this evening. I finally got it pretty stable while up on the jack. As soon as I took it down a rode it straight the belt went out to the outside of the pulley. Repeated this process several times always with the same result, good on the jack, off when on the ground. So I adjusted it to be up against the inside of the pulley. On the ground it says on the pulley now, but does not have the 1mm of clearance.

Yes, they have gone bad with less. especially with the belt too tight. There are two service bulletin tasks that should be done on every early Spyder...lowering the belt tension to the latest spec, and retorquing the front sprocket at 6,000 miles. If these are skipped, the chances of front sprocket damage greatly increase. If you have sprocket damage, and are lucky, only the sprocket will be bad. If the output shaft splines are worn, too, the repairs are more extensive. BTW, are you sure you are tightening the axle nut securely?

 

[teadave]

when i lowered my belt tension, i had the spyder supported at the rear shock. ran it in 3rd gear(up to 60mph) and made that belt track perfectly. well, after many tries it did. took it out on the road, at the first stop sign(1 mile) the belt is so far over it is almost off! turn around, go home, repeat process. three times! every time it would be perfect on the jack, but go away from the flange as soon as i rode it. i finally threw the tools in the frunk and kept stopping at the side of the road doing 1/6 of a turn adjustments until i got it 1mm from the flange. stayed there for about 200 miles & went back against flange. screw it, drive it like i stole it for now, will play some more when the weather gets nicer out!

 

[spyryder]

If your belt was tracking properly before you changed the tire, then it would seem pretty obvious that it was an installation or adjustment problem since the tire change, so keep trying, I'm sure you'll get it. ray: