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Another Brake Question ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter arntufun
  • Start date Start date
A

arntufun

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Can I start my Spyder in neutral with the rear Brake Caliper off the Spyder and setting on the floor without throwing a code or a limp mode ???

I want to start the Spyder to change the oil, and exshaust gaskets but my back wheel and rear brakes are not together yet. Should I wait until the brake caliper is back on the bike prior to starting Spyder ???
 
I would think no as long as you don't press the brakes. But then again the comp might
recognize the missing speed sensor or and throw a code that way.
 
I never warm the Spyder to change the oil. All the oil is sitting at it's lowest level, so why move it around? And the exhaust gaskets??? Do you want to touch a hot exhaust pipe?
I am not sure about the computer effect, but if it is affected, it will require a BUDS hookup, which you can't do at home. Merry Christmas!
 
Can I start my Spyder in neutral with the rear Brake Caliper off the Spyder and setting on the floor without throwing a code or a limp mode ???

I want to start the Spyder to change the oil, and exshaust gaskets but my back wheel and rear brakes are not together yet. Should I wait until the brake caliper is back on the bike prior to starting Spyder ???

Randy, you should be fine to do this. Right now, ours is unhooked due to a break in the cable & we're ryding daily like this til the shop calls & the parts are in. Since we are ryding, it does throw a code, but no LIMP HOME MODE so no real problem. If your not moving, I wouldn't think you'd have an issue. Good Luck, & Teddy & I hope you & Holly had a Great Christmas & an even Better NEW YEARS :joke:
 
Can I start my Spyder in neutral with the rear Brake Caliper off the Spyder and setting on the floor without throwing a code or a limp mode ???

???
Just make sure you don't press the brake pedal, and push the piston out of the caliper.
 
If you like sludge buildup then changing your oil cold is a great idea.

Contaminants settle out of the oil as it sits, so by draining cold oil you're retaining the maximum amount of crud which will then mix with your brand new, fresh oil.

If you want to drain out as much of the Old Oil and contaminants as possible then you'll want not only a warm engine but an engine where all components have reached operating temperature. Idling your Spyder for a few minutes in the garage won't accomplish this. And idling your engine for long periods (especially a cold engine) is also not a great idea.

All of these negative practices are cumulative. They don't cause issues right away, but long term they can take a toll.
 
Well, it might have been a bad idea to start the Spyder today. I have brake failure scrolling on the screen now. Once I get the wheel back and brakes installed, I will update you all then.

Does that have to be cleared using BUDS, or once the brakes are back on will it just go away ???
 
If you like sludge buildup then changing your oil cold is a great idea.

Contaminants settle out of the oil as it sits, so by draining cold oil you're retaining the maximum amount of crud which will then mix with your brand new, fresh oil.

If you want to drain out as much of the Old Oil and contaminants as possible then you'll want not only a warm engine but an engine where all components have reached operating temperature. Idling your Spyder for a few minutes in the garage won't accomplish this. And idling your engine for long periods (especially a cold engine) is also not a great idea.

All of these negative practices are cumulative. They don't cause issues right away, but long term they can take a toll.

:agree: I don't understand, From time immemorial, You changed your oil warm/hot.
Never cold. What changed!! :dontknow:
 
Well, it might have been a bad idea to start the Spyder today. I have brake failure scrolling on the screen now. Once I get the wheel back and brakes installed, I will update you all then.

Does that have to be cleared using BUDS, or once the brakes are back on will it just go away ???

Did you disconnect the ABS sensor from the harness? That would most likely give you a warning also.
 
If you didn't open the system up, it should be fine. The caliper pistons may have expanded a bit without having the rotor to separate them, causing the reservoir fluid level to drop to a level that triggers the warning. Once you pry them open to re-install, the fluid level should go back to its original level.


I'm not going to worry about it until I get the Spyder back together and on the ground. Right now the Spyder's rear end is up in the air so that might have something to do with it. :dontknow:
 
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