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Something Fiberglass Won't stick to - To help make a mold

buck1234

New member
Hi all;

I was watching a custom car show and learned something of interest. They used Aluminum Foil, like we use for cooking, as the facing for a fiberglass mold they needed. The piece they needed to duplicate was smoothed and sanded very well. Then they laid the foil in strips overlapping about 2 inches and sealed the seam with 2 inch masking tape. Laid down the fiberglass mat material and put the resin on. When it cured they had a male mold of what they needed. I suppose that making a female mold would follow the same procedure. Custom width and length fenders might be within the reach of anyone willing to give it a shot.

Haven't tried it yet, but I know I will now.

Hope this helps a Garage Gladiator for their next project.


Buck1234

 
:popcorn: Thanks for the tip. I have a kayac in need of some repair, I think that I'll try it out on that first.
 
That's a new one for me. I was raised in the fiberglass industry. There are a number of Parting Agents or Mold Release materials that are painted onto the master, then the mat and resin applied over it. Often an air hose is used to separate the two pieces. This in particular goes for a gelcoat finish in almost all cases.

Ride in comfort,

John
Seal FloorBoards
 
That's a new one for me. I was raised in the fiberglass industry. There are a number of Parting Agents or Mold Release materials that are painted onto the master, then the mat and resin applied over it. Often an air hose is used to separate the two pieces. This in particular goes for a gelcoat finish in almost all cases.

Ride in comfort,

John
Seal FloorBoards
:agree: Sounds to me like they were trying to cover the plug to keep from damaging it making the mold. Seems like there would be a lot of finishing involved afertward, to clean up the mold and all the wrinkles, overlaps, and tape marks.
 
Having built many show vehicles yes that is one thing we/they use . Good find though what show was this on ? I may have to start watching it
 
:agree: Sounds to me like they were trying to cover the plug to keep from damaging it making the mold. Seems like there would be a lot of finishing involved afertward, to clean up the mold and all the wrinkles, overlaps, and tape marks.
Checked with a Glass expert 35 years of show corvettes. He said that there is never a perfect mold, all of them have to be tweeked to perfection. Air bubles, small seams ect. That's why he uses skimming bondo on almost all of his molds for the "Perfect" finish. If he does it, it must work. Then for the final piece proper temperature and first class mold release and a careful sanding job.
 
Checked with a Glass expert 35 years of show corvettes. He said that there is never a perfect mold, all of them have to be tweeked to perfection. Air bubles, small seams ect. That's why he uses skimming bondo on almost all of his molds for the "Perfect" finish. If he does it, it must work. Then for the final piece proper temperature and first class mold release and a careful sanding job.
Yea. they're all a bear. Preparation is everything, just like in other bodywork. The big difference is that with 'glass, you have to do the work twice. :D
 
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